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    Results 1 to 16 of 16
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Los Angeles
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      721
      Country Flag: United States

      Can't remove spring, need advice

      I recently purchased a 69 subframe and not thinking I took the bolts that hold the lower control arms attached out. I was hoping I could swing the arm down and then take the spring out but no luck. I also removed the shock but when I tried to use a rented spring compressor it got wedge in the spring. Basically a big mess. The spring still appears to be under pressure and I was curious if I could just heat the coils using a torch to weaken them and then undo the spindle. Does any of that makes sense?



      Thanks in advance.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Posts
      35
      Wow. That is a certainly a bad situation. Consider yourself very lucky no one was hurt. The torch idea could take the energy out of the spring for you, but who knows if it will cause the spring to partially collapse and then eject out or what. I would certainly rig up a safety strap or chain on it first and foremost and go from there. There is so much energy in those springs it is a dangerous game. I would almost be inclined to wedge the subframe assembly up against something big and then strap the spring to the bumper of a truck and pull it out that way. This would put you as far away from it as possible.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      California
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      1,368
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      So the only things you removed from the subframe are the lower control arm and the shock? If it's a stock spring, just undoing the castle nut for the lower control arm should have allowed the spring to shoot downwards from the frame. Is it basically just hanging in the frame? Look under it and see what it looks like. It's probably rusted pretty good if it won't budge.

      How does it appear to still be under pressure?
      Matt

      69 Nova - 357, TKO600, Tru Turn, some other stuff, awaiting LS1 swap
      71 Duster - all stock, slant 6, automatic. awaiting HEMI/T56 swap

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Los Angeles
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      721
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      Well the lower arm is still attached via the spindle. Where it bolts to the subframe, I've removed the bolts. Is the castle nut the only thing holding the spindle to the LCA?

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      nw phx
      Posts
      248
      you did it backwards. leave lca attacthed to frame, undue the lower ball joint, wiht a jack under the lca. serparate balljoint, and lower jack, lca will come down and you can push it all the way down and remove the spring. quite easy to do with one person. just be cautious when lowering jack becasue spring does have tention on it until the lca has swung far enough down, almost 90 degrees..
      ...life is too short, live for today, tomorrow isn't guaranteed

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
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      am i the only one feeling nervous about this?

      Your sway bar links are still connected to the lower arms right?


      You can heat the coil but please be safe. I have seen the destructive damage a freed spring can cause. Not to mention a projected lower arm.

      Its going to help having weight on the frame. Do a few coils for good measure. If you are using a cut off torch, heat 3 coils then burn through the middle one.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    7. #7
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
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      3,028
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      If you have a torch, wrap a small chain around the spring through the shock hole to keep it from ejecting. Cut spring with torch in a couple of places.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
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      Quote Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift View Post
      If you have a torch, wrap a small chain around the spring through the shock hole to keep it from ejecting. Cut spring with torch in a couple of places.
      Yeah, if youre gonna heat it at all, the spring is junk. Just cut it in 3 pieces and pull the lower arm out of the way.

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2010
      Location
      Sacramento, CA
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      1,214
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      All these posts and not one says to use the tool specifically made for the job. Use an internal spring compressor and take the seat pressure off the spring, the remove the lower ball joint nut and break the ball joint once the spring is compressed enough to be loose. I would still safety chain the spring to the control arm to be safe. Ive removed springs that were compressed 4 inches compressed at full suspension droop, that means there could be a pressure of 600lbs or more on that spring even with the control arm fully lowered.
      -James

      1974 Z28 SCCA C Prepared
      1990 Firebird NASA CMC
      2005 Mustang GT SCCA F-Street (new for 2015)
      1989 Civic Si SCCA STC

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
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      He is already past "right tool for the job", but yes an internal spring compressor is the way to go if you are trying to save them.
      Donny

      Support your local hot rod shop!

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Feb 2002
      Location
      Santee, CA
      Posts
      387
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      Ditto on the safety chain. Drop a chain down in through the top to hold everything together in case something goes flying.

      If the subframe isn't attached to the car, you're going to have a hard time with a jack under the LCA. If you can put some weight on the subframe, that would help (got an old engine you can temporarily set in place?).

      My recommendation would be to install a safety chain, load some weight on the frame, put a jack under the LCA, then disconnect the LCA from the lower ball stud. If the castle nut is loose, but it hasn't popped, then leave the castle nut loose (but still enough on the bolt to hold once it does pop). Go down to your local hardware store and pick up these:



      Install between the 2 ball joints and turn the nut until it pops...like this:



      Then of course, just CAREFULLY remove the castle nut using the jack to keep the LCA in place.

      Good luck and be careful!

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Los Angeles
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      Thanks for all the info guys. I'll keep everyone posted.

    13. #13
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
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      10,716
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      Quote Originally Posted by SLO_Z28 View Post
      All these posts and not one says to use the tool specifically made for the job. Use an internal spring compressor and take the seat pressure off the spring, the remove the lower ball joint nut and break the ball joint once the spring is compressed enough to be loose. I would still safety chain the spring to the control arm to be safe. Ive removed springs that were compressed 4 inches compressed at full suspension droop, that means there could be a pressure of 600lbs or more on that spring even with the control arm fully lowered.
      tool was there and got stuck.
      I like to use this type.


      Pass the threaded shaft through the upper shock hole and the threaded hook through the lower shock hole in the lower arm.

      But honestly I use a hammer, pry bar and a floor jack now. Couple firm taps on the spindle separates the arms easily with spring pressure on them.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2007
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      2,391
      Country Flag: United States
      I usually do the hammer & floor jack routine but I'm gonna try eseniors trick. I did original ball joints on an 83 Monte and a 76 Camaro in the past week and had to pound the daylights out of both of them with a hand sledge. I have to install lift springs in Donks and use this old school tool that has different plates for different diamater springs. Plate in upper and lower part of spring near the ends and use an air gun to tighten it up compressing the spring. Some of the lift springs are really tall (like 6" taller than stock) and have to be compressed almost to coil bind just to get them up into the frame pocket! Gotta ride horrible, but, not my cars.






    15. #15
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Posts
      19
      Country Flag: United States

      Can't remove spring, need advice

      Put weight back on the spring, let it compress, wrap the crap out of it with baling wire, let the jack the car back up the spring will stay compressed, and should literally fall out.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Aug 2010
      Location
      Los Angeles
      Posts
      721
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      I got them!!! Ended up using a couple ratchet straps and secured the spring to the upper arm. Then I wrapped the coils with a towel and knocked the lower arm off the spindle. Worked like a charm and I didn't lose my eyes or arms! Thanks for all the advice guys.




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