Fast efi 2.0

[Antti66ht]

Thanks,

very nice to see the end of the plot, especially since I just opened my xfi boxces to start the install next weekend!

a

[obengston]

As a update I have been driving it around with no issues....well one. It still loses power but realized yesterday it was really doing it a a idle, so I'm going to run the ignition on wire to a relay and see if this fixes the issue.

I just posted a New Video under the media section on this forum if you want to see a update video of it running and and completely installed again.

[obengston]

As a update I have been driving it around with no issues....well one. It still loses power but realized yesterday it was really doing it a a idle, so I'm going to run the ignition on wire to a relay and see if this fixes the issue.

I just posted a New Video under the media section on this forum if you want to see a update video of it running and and completely installed again.

Just a update from my last post. I stated it was running good, except I was still having issue with it shutting off (losing power). Well I ran the ECU ignition on wire to a battery feed Relay, and so far it has not lost power.

[Ketzer]

So the ECU is staying on all the time? Even when the engine is off?


Jeff-

[obengston]

So the ECU is staying on all the time? Even when the engine is off?


Jeff-

No the relay has power straight from the battery, but activated with a ign on wire. Sorry for any confusion

[obengston]

Well drove the car about 40 miles one way, stop and go, as well as some open road...no issue, but on the return trip it was starting to get dark so I was running my lights (only thing different from the trip out), about half way back as the car was slowing down to stop, or lower rpm's it would shut off. The only thing I can think is the main power wire running to the ECU is connected at the battery in the truck, and with everything running maybe at times when the fan's kick on there is not enough power at the battery. So I will relocate the power wire from the battery and connect it at the lug in the front where the alternator connects to, as well as the battery main feed wire connects.

[windsor]

Interesting. Did you check voltage at the battery when all those items are turned on?

[obengston]

Interesting. Did you check voltage at the battery when all those items are turned on?

No, I was driving, but it would shut down for a quick second then come back on... As I was driving, but one time as I was stopping for a light it shut off so I pulled over because I was almost at a stop. Tried starting it, lights still on and fans, dash lights ect. Would not start, turned the fans off, and lights started right up, re adjusted fan to come on a litter hotter, started driving, was again at low RPM when fans kicked on and lost power to ecu. I think with all the electronics, and fans kicking on at lower RPM it is for a quick second pulling to many amps from the battery that its killing the ECU for a quick second. Since my battery is in the trunk, and I have the cable connected to a stud close to the starter, and the alternator is connected at the stud as well, I will connected the Main ECU power wire there as well. This way its still connected to the 'Battery" but also right where the alternator is. My thinking is this should prevent any drop. Any thoughts??

[Spork82]

I would run pos and neg directly too the trunk, that way it gets consistent voltage. There may be a possible "failsafe" in the ecu if it see's any voltage spike or drop off it will shut down so it doesn't get damaged.

[obengston]

I would run pos and neg directly too the trunk, that way it gets consistent voltage. There may be a possible "failsafe" in the ecu if it see's any voltage spike or drop off it will shut down so it doesn't get damaged.

Thats where it is currently running... And I lose power at low RPM when everything is on electronics, fuel pump, and then the fans kick on..

[Spork82]

Sorry I thought it was run differently. Have you checked to see what your alternator is putting out at idle? Maybe it's not charging and that sudden kick from the fans is causing it too drop. Maybe try a dual battery

[mmosley]

Thats where it is currently running... And I lose power at low RPM when everything is on electronics, fuel pump, and then the fans kick on..

Put a voltmeter on the battery. Have someone turn one thing on at a time and see what the voltage drops to.

Several things to check if you are seeing the voltage sag too low and some things to think about. Most issues I have ever seen with ignition and EFI are almost always related to grounding.

1) Is the battery good.
2) Does your alternator have a good ground?
3) Does your alternator have enough output for everything you are trying to run?
4) What size ground and what size cable do you have running to your alternator? If you are grounding through the brackets you may want to consider running a ground cable direct from the alternator case to the chassis if your alternator does not have a ground terminal.
5) Does your alternator output go directly to the battery?
6) I'll assume you have a one wire alternator (not a big fan of those by the way), but if not, where is the alternator getting it's voltage reference. I prefer my regulator to use the ignition feed, that way it is compensating for losses between the rest of the system and the ignition.

[garry1172]

Any updates

How is it going now

[obengston]

Any updates

How is it going now

I just finished changing the Pulley on my alternator so no it maintains 14+ volts at idle, (I did not run a neg cable from my battery to the engine block), but I did change the ground going from my engine to the fram, now it goes from the engine to the body, both sides of the block the same. Now I have not had any problems with it mysteriously shutting off. So far it runs great, except for when driving I pull it into second gear and go WOT I get a surge then it picks up. I see the AF is leaning at this point for a quick second, so I'm currently adding fuel to the accell pump, and will play with this part until I have it right. Other than that its awesome, great response, pulls hard, idles great, starts right up no matter how cold.

[garry1172]

good to hear keep as updated

garry

[Bilco547]

No not the issue here at all. Had nothing to do with what was going on. If you look at my first video (the first day I started it it ran great and I drove it around) on that day the MAP/Load is around 70 at idle , on the next day the second video shows the MAP/LOAD at 100 plus at idle, pretty sure that might have something to do with my issue. That is the only difference between the two days.

Hopefully will get a new map sensor this week from Fast if they send me one out. (for free...)

I still haven't gotten my running right yet neither and im having all the same issues and the unit wasn't at sema this year they claimed it was old that's why they had older stuff on their display I think everyone who has one of this definetly not ezi efi 2.0 systems we need to get together and form a class action law suite to get back monies for the cost of new fuel systems installation cost I have two friends besides myself who have the system because of me and cant get them running right black smoke running rich ****ed up idle runs semi good one day super ****ty the next and the biggest excuse was radio interference but now my irm is at 000 so that shows no interference and im still having a head ache and my motor smokes now and I have a forty thousand dollar 547 that extreme racing engines built that this system may have destroyed and I don't under stand how every car on the road today is fuel injected and there isn't any of these problems going on with any of them .. I think they introduced these systems with out totally doing their home work on the set up got it out to fast

[Bilco547]

I still haven't gotten my running right yet neither and im having all the same issues and the unit wasn't at sema this year they claimed it was old that's why they had older stuff on their display I think everyone who has one of this definetly not ezi efi 2.0 systems we need to get together and form a class action law suite to get back monies for the cost of new fuel systems installation cost I have two friends besides myself who have the system because of me and cant get them running right black smoke running rich ****ed up idle runs semi good one day super ****ty the next and the biggest excuse was radio interference but now my irm is at 000 so that shows no interference and im still having a head ache and my motor smokes now and I have a forty thousand dollar 547 that extreme racing engines built that this system may have destroyed and I don't under stand how every car on the road today is fuel injected and there isn't any of these problems going on with any of them .. I think they introduced these systems with out totally doing their home work on the set up got it out to fast

Go in to your hand held to engine parameters and check your irm count if its 000 then their electrical interference line isn't gonns hold up mine is 000 and im still losing my mind

[Bilco547]

No not the issue here at all. Had nothing to do with what was going on. If you look at my first video (the first day I started it it ran great and I drove it around) on that day the MAP/Load is around 70 at idle , on the next day the second video shows the MAP/LOAD at 100 plus at idle, pretty sure that might have something to do with my issue. That is the only difference between the two days.

Hopefully will get a new map sensor this week from Fast if they send me one out. (for free...)

I still haven't gotten my running right yet neither and im having all the same issues and the unit wasn't at sema this year they claimed it was old that's why they had older stuff on their display I think everyone who has one of this definetly not ezi efi 2.0 systems we need to get together and form a class action law suite to get back monies for the cost of new fuel systems installation cost I have two friends besides myself who have the system because of me and cant get them running right black smoke running rich ****ed up idle runs semi good one day super ****ty the next and the biggest excuse was radio interference but now my irm is at 000 so that shows no interference and im still having a head ache and my motor smokes now and I have a forty thousand dollar 547 that extreme racing engines built that this system may have destroyed and I don't under stand how every car on the road today is fuel injected and there isn't any of these problems going on with any of them .. I think they introduced these systems with out totally doing their home work on the set up got it out to fast

[Bilco547]

Anybody have any info on when this will be available?

I still haven't gotten my running right yet neither and im having all the same issues and the unit wasn't at sema this year they claimed it was old that's why they had older stuff on their display I think everyone who has one of this definetly not ezi efi 2.0 systems we need to get together and form a class action law suite to get back monies for the cost of new fuel systems installation cost I have two friends besides myself who have the system because of me and cant get them running right black smoke running rich ****ed up idle runs semi good one day super ****ty the next and the biggest excuse was radio interference but now my irm is at 000 so that shows no interference and im still having a head ache and my motor smokes now and I have a forty thousand dollar 547 that extreme racing engines built that this system may have destroyed and I don't under stand how every car on the road today is fuel injected and there isn't any of these problems going on with any of them .. I think they introduced these systems with out totally doing their home work on the set up got it out to fast

[Ketzer]

I don't under stand how every car on the road today is fuel injected and there isn't any of these problems going on with any of them .. I think they introduced these systems with out totally doing their home work on the set up got it out to fast

I hate you are having these problems. I really want to hear success stories because I want to put FI on my big block too.

It's not fair to say all modern cars are FI and yours should work. Those factory OEM systems are built to fit VERY specific parameters. New cars don't have high compression, radical cams, pieced together fuel systems. These "universal" kits seem to work great up to about 450hp. Anything more radical than that and the horror stories start popping up...



Jeff-