1970 Chevelle Electrical Problems

[SinCityChevelle]

This one stumped me, but thats not too hard to do when it comes to electrical issues. Here's the story...



I parked my '70 Chevelle in my garage after a spirited drive where it ran perfect. It sat there for about 2 weeks un-touched. When I got back in it and tried to start it, it didn't make a noise. First instinct said it was the battery so I tried to jump it. That didn't work so I tried to charge it in the car overnight. That didn't work either so I charged it out of the car with the same results. Then I replaced it completely and still, there was no luck. There was a small bit of hope while I was jumping it when it started to turn over a little, but was too weak. Ever since then, even with the new battery, which I tested in another car to make sure that it worked, it hasn't made a noise. Next I checked the Neutral Safety Switch and that came out OK. The battery disconnect switch, the fuses, and the connections to the distributor or ok as well. I tried to work some other things with a good battery in it and heres what I came up with. The headlights, electric fans, etc... don't work, but that annoying buzzer that goes off when you open the door with the keys in the ignition still works. My next guess is that the fuse box itself needs to be replaced. What do you guys think?

[zbugger]

Have you checked the connection at the starter? That little buzzer doesn't need much power to run. Have you looked at all the fuses too? Hmm.... How about your grounds? I'm just guessing at the moment.

[SinCityChevelle]

I have checked the fuses and they are all ok, the battery is putting out a full 12 Volts too. I am going to check the connection at the starter as soon as I get a chance. Thanks!

[yody]

starter is dead, buy a new one

[derekf]

starter is dead, buy a new one

Not sure I buy this, since

The headlights, electric fans, etc... don't work

Might be one issue going on, might be more than one.

Headlights: Looks like the main power in to the interior is a 12ga red wire in the dash block - might check that to see if it's getting +12v... and from there, check if the 12ga red wire at the light switch is getting power (I beleive it's one of the ones that's off on the corner by itself). If the light switch is getting power, try adding a jumper between the 12ga red and the 14ga light blue wire - that light blue wire should be the one going to the dimmer on the floor, so you should get headlights at that point. If that gets you lights, then the issue with the headlights would appear to be the switch. If it doesn't, the next step to try would likely be bypassing the dimmer switch - connect 12v to the tan or light green wires at the dimmer.

Starter: Have you confirmed that you're getting 12v at the battery cable at the starter? What about voltage on the purple wire connected to the solenoid (when the key is turned - you'd likely need some assistance for that one)? If you don't have anyone to help, you could just jump the battery cable to the S terminal on the starter (the one with the purple wire)... MAKE SURE THAT THE CAR IS NOT IN GEAR BEFORE DOING THAT!.. if you're getting a good 12v to the starter, jumping the S terminal to the B terminal (the big one) should make it spin. If the ignition is off, the car won't start, but the starter will try. If jumping the B to the S terminals doesn't fix it, you might have a battery cable that's broken inside - it's letting enough juice through to read 12v but not enough to let the starter start.. you could try a jumper cable between the positive post and the B terminal to see if it's the cable.

Hrm. The more I think about it, the more I'd like to see you try something first - hook a jumper cable from the positive terminal to the main junction block of the car (where the skinny wire from the positive terminal goes) - the same issue with broken wires inside may be biting and would explain everything.. and if that's the case, it may be that the draw through that wire was too high to even kick the starter solenoid, but I doubt the keyminder takes much juice at all.

Of course, if you'd prefer to throw money at it, I'd definitely start by replacing the positive battery cable, or both if you're trying to get a punch on that Autozone frequent-shopper card

[yody]

oops, skimmed through too fast and thought he said that stuff worked. Definelty look at the wire that goes from the junction block near the battery to the battery. It might be a fusible link, that is blown.

[SinCityChevelle]

Thanks guys! Hopefully I get some time tomorrow to try these ideas out.

[SinCityChevelle]

Ok I figured it out. (Please excuse my lack of correct part names). The problem was a bad connection at the thing that activates the door buzzer when you leave your keys in the ignition. There were three wires that run through that part of the car, one of which bieng the power to the door buzzer. I still don't know what the other wires go to, but I noticed a loose wire hanging down from it so I re-attached it and now my car starts. Thanks for all of the suggestions. I am just glad it is not the starter.

[yody]

I believe that is your horn relay. good job! there are some other important wires that run to that thing

[SinCityChevelle]

I believe that is your horn relay. good job! there are some other important wires that run to that thing

Ok so that my horn relay. Good to know, thanks. Do you happen to know what the wires are going to this? I would like to know for future reference. So far here's what I got...

Wire #1 = Door buzzer
Wire #2 = Something that you need to start your car
Wire #3 = Wire that sends power from your steering wheel to the horns?