Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
    Results 21 to 23 of 23
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Dec 2008
      Location
      Detroit
      Posts
      2,664
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm pretty sure tall ball joints are only meant to be used with stock height spindles.

      Big dreams, small pockets....

      Chris--
      '72 Cutlass S LSA/T56 Magnum
      Bowler Performance, Forgeline, Speedtech, ATS, Speartech, KORE3, Ridetech coilovers

      Project Motor City Madness


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Feb 2010
      Location
      ARIZONA
      Posts
      139
      Country Flag: United States
      Be carefull with terms. There are spindles with OE distance between the ball joint tapers and "tall" which raise the upper ball joint taper (same thing as using an OE distance spindle and tall ball joints or doing the Guldstrand mod). This improves the geometry during bump and droop.
      There are spindles that move the "spindle" up in relation to the lower ball joint taper. This lowers the ride height of the car without using lowering springs or cutting the coils.
      Spindles are available in all combinations. OE distance, OE spindle height. OE distance, raised spindle. Increased distance, OE spindle height. Increased distance, raised spindle.
      You should only do one thing to change the upper a-arm angle unless you know what and why you are doing it. i.e. just a "tall" spindle or just tall upper ball joints or just the Guldstrand Mod, not a combination of two or more.
      Just to confuse you more, you can also use "tall" lower ball joints to lower the car and change the geometry while using OE spindle height spindles.
      Larry
      67 Camaro, 350 SB, Custom A-Arms & 3-Link
      My Build https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...LOVE-67-Camaro

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      OK for the fun part. basically what your getting with a tall LOWER joint is a lowering of the spindle the hub rides on,,,ie lowering the car over the wheel which will change front CG/rollsteer some. Tall ball joints will move the upper ball joint pivot point in relation to the control arm bushing pivot point and THIS is what makes camber gain. And if your talking stock replacement 4 bolt upper ball joints in your arms, simply remove them, place them on ebay or on here for sale to someone and replace with a good grade OE aftermarket ball joint and get a tall spindle, the benefits out weight the cost factor of two ball joints.
      After seeing the issues involved and all, leaving tall lowers in but replacing tall uppers, well buy the expensive spindles once. ALSO if you would ahppen to be out and about and need to replace ball joints in emergency then only thing losing the tall lower joint is that it would raise the front about 1/2" ish when replaced with stock height. It really wouldnt effect handling as much as you think,,,its the upper height that is the "fix" and as for brakes on most DD/Fun drivers dont dispatch using larger Corvette brakes as they can be had off Ebay VERY reasonable and I have seen some of the big 14 in brakes beaten HARD with little ill effects. Only time you MIGHT notice is if you started running track days and still there are several pad/rotor selections that fir Corvette AND stock parts can get you home over a motel room, Fed Ex charges and lost time. This is big reason I am gonna use GM parts over aftermarket.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com