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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Tucson
      Posts
      5
      Country Flag: United States

      1966 Mustang raodster.

      Hello, I Just recently finished my Dodge Stealth RT/TT and decided it was time to start another project. I wanted something a little different from what everyone had so it sets itself apart at car shows and the track. The car will be geared toward ¼-mile track but I want it to carve corners as well. I have some lofty goals for the car, but still need to work within my finances (Champaign dreams on a beer budget). I once had a 1966 mustang coupe. I loved that car, but I was young and stupid, so I traded it for something else. I wanted to go back and do that project the way it should have been done. I went on the internet, and found a rolling shell for $800 bucks. I purchased a 1966 mustang coupe that originally had a 289 with a three speed manual tranny and 8-inch rear. It was a deluxe model, however when I bought it, it was striped. The person I bought it from made a deal with me that I would trade him the roof that I cut off for the doors for the car. I brought it home, welded in an eight-point roll cage, and then cut off the roof. I called the person back and he said he changed his mind, he said he could deal with the roof he had because the doors would cost too much to replace. I believe things happen for a reason so I waited patiently for parts to come along. It was not too long before I found a set of fiberglass doors with lexan windows. Along with the doors, the person had an almost complete fiberglass front end. I ended up getting all of it for $300. I spent 3 days removing all the bondo (It was the metallic kind). It is in black rattle can primer right now. I started doing all the free stuff I can do to it, like dent pulling and welding.
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    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Tucson
      Posts
      5
      Country Flag: United States

      Pics/ updates

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      I took off the sheetmetal from the dash for that smooth falcon look, cut out the rear deck, welded in the roll bar, loped off the roof (but cut it at the weld on point so I can sell it, really nice shape).

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Tucson
      Posts
      5
      Country Flag: United States
      Striped the old bondo and paint off the car.
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    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      McKinney, TX
      Posts
      1,623
      Country Flag: United States
      That floor pan is very week now, You'll want to and some type of reinforcements to it. Other than that it seems like a cool idea.
      66 Mustang "Project: Ballin on a budget"
      89 Mustang "Box Wine"

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Saskatchewan, Canada
      Posts
      72
      Country Flag: Canada
      You could put in the convertible rockers, torque boxs and seat pan and gain a pile of strength. Not a lot of work and wayyyy better than subframe connectors. Any ideas for drivetrain, suspension, etc.?
      David.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Tucson
      Posts
      5
      Country Flag: United States
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      I was thinking of building a full frame, I'll have to see how that goes. Drivetrain will be a 460 twin turbo with an 6 speed and a 8.8 explorer rear with c-clip eliminators, eventually. Right now I am going to drop in a 302 with an auto while I build the motor, and still be able to drive the car. I'm trying to sell my stealth in order to pay off my truck so I can free up some cash. I want to get it to a running driving state as soon as I can.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2012
      Posts
      35
      Country Flag: United States
      If the passenger fender is original and in very good shape I will buy it from you. I don't want to judge a work in progress but that cage isn't doing anything for the strength of the chassis as it sits.

      Take a look here http://www.sn65.com/Chassis%20Design%20101.htm

      I highly suggest you do the mods outlined in phase 1. Tie the rear bars diagonally to the angled side bars. Reinstall the angled side bars to the convertible inner rockers. The front subframe is a teeter totter that has the firewall as a fulcrum. The export brace ties the front of the teeter totter. The roof ties the A pillars and cowl. With a 460, you are losing the export brace. With the roadster mod you lose the roof. It looks as if it will fold at the rocker right behind the A post.

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jul 2011
      Location
      A1A Beachfront Avenue
      Posts
      81
      Country Flag: United States
      Putting in a 460 twin turbo is going to be a TON of weight up front. That's what I was planning on putting in my falcon and it was originally being built as a 1/4-mile car that could corner also. I would seriously consider sticking with a small block or even consider an aluminum mod motor. Just a thought.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Feb 2005
      Location
      Sydney, Australia
      Posts
      1,797
      Country Flag: Australia
      Just a suggestion, on the bar set up....move the rear down tubes outboard and add a cross X bar arrangement between the rear down tubes...and add an angled tube down from the main hoop as a support.
      Just a thought.....
      Should be a fun car....with all the alloy V8's available these days, don't go sticking a cast iron engine up front......
      Regards,
      Leigh

      Sydney, Australia
      1971 Firebird 455

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...Project/page27

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Vail, Arizona
      Posts
      660
      Country Flag: United States
      sdgh

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2012
      Location
      Tucson
      Posts
      5
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for all the structual suggestions. I will be looking into incorporating them into the project. I really wanted to do a mod motor (4.6 supercharged cobra motor), but i need to have one fall in my lap and have the cash in hand. I also need to tie the firewall from the main hoop base to the firewall crossing the other forward tubes.



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