12bolt upgrade

[gui67]

I plan to upgrade my 12 bolt this winter:
remove c-clips (new housing ends), new rear brakes, new axles and carrier.

I have difficulties to find exactly what setup I should use:
For the brakes, I am thinking about the Wilwood D154:
but this kit does not exist for the 12 bolt special (with bearing retainer). Can I use the backing plate as the reatainer and put it on the axle before pressing the bearing?
otherwise I would need to use this kit for big ford ends:
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...emno=140-12216
and this ends: http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...le-torino.html
but is it possible to use these ends on a 12 bolt? is the tube diameter right?

Other question about the bearings:
I see there are ball-bearings and tapered rollers.
http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...r-bearing.html
and : http://www.moserengineering.com/othe...nner-seal.html
which one should be used? what are the advantages and inconvenients of both?

[Skip Fix]

Ball bearings are drag only do not take a side load as well as taper bearings.

[gui67]

I know that taper bearing take better side loads.
Do they mount on place of the ball-bearings? are there no inconvenients?
Is the installation the same? pressed on the axle and then just the retainer on the housing end?
I would like to learn more about bearings for "Ford" ends, it is really new for me.

[Skip Fix]

Taper bearings press on just like the ball bearings. Pretty much the same. The most common one is 3.150 OD (I believe) so backing plates or disc brackets may need to be opened up.

Moser's tech, Strange's tech, or Tom at Tom's Differentials could probably tell you the exact differences between them. Strange has a new "street" C clip eliminator that uses the taper bearings.

[AmKenpo1]

Taper bearings press on just like the ball bearings. Pretty much the same. The most common one is 3.150 OD (I believe) so backing plates or disc brackets may need to be opened up.

Moser's tech, Strange's tech, or Tom at Tom's Differentials could probably tell you the exact differences between them. Strange has a new "street" C clip eliminator that uses the taper bearings.

Just know that changing to a bolt in style housing end will require new axles, which isn't a bad thing. When using a bolt in style axle be sure to use a good induction hardened axle. Companies like Strange, Dutchman Motorsports and Currie Enterprises offer some great packages that can get you the axles, axle bearings, retainer plates and wheel studs.
Strange does currently offer a C-Clip eliminator (Part# A1033) for stock axles, that uses a tapered bearing.

[Skip Fix]

The Strange C clip elim has a bushing to adapt the stock axle OD to the taper bearing ID.

[gui67]

I saw that the taper bearing is a bit wider then te ball bearing. (I think it is the seal)
Is there a specific retainer plate or housing end needed?
I planned to use the 7900FM from Moser with their retainer plate 9900tb, will that be OK? or should I just make my own retainer plate when all parts arrive, with a recess in order no to compress thebearing too much? How much compressed should these bearings be?

[gui67]

For your information, here are pictures of the modifications made to my 12bolt:

[Skip Fix]

Looks good. DId youuse a jig/bar to weld the ends on to be sure they are straight and no camber, toe issues?
WHat is the extra bracket on the passenger side?

[gui67]

the extra bracket was for the factory traction bar, before Camaro had the staggered shocks.

I welded it with the diff, the shafts and bearings in place, so there was no possibility for the end to be misaligned.

[Skip Fix]

The 12 bolt I put in the Camaro project had the Moser taper bearing ends welded on in case it ever goes around corners vs a straight line. My projects often change duties over the years.

[Jay@GMR]

I welded it with the diff, the shafts and bearings in place, so there was no possibility for the end to be misaligned.

I hope the best, but you would be one very lucky man if this technique yeilds a perfect axle centerline and no +- toe/camber.

A quick check to see if you have any major issues would be to place or clamp two 20" plus long straight edges flat against your axle flange faces at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock position and take a measurement from one side to the other..... both should be the same (or VERY VERY close). Then repeating this again resting the straight edges against the axle flange faces at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock taking measurements again..... both these measurements should be the same number as your 3 and 9 o'clock measurements.

Now this still does not confirm that the axle center line is correct but will at least confirm your potential toe/camber.

Most likely your axle centerline will be off if all you relied on was the axle spline engagement into the carrier to locate the ends.

Not trying to be negative here, but it is difficult enough keeping things perfect even when using specific tooling for end installation. Good luck.

Jay

[Ron.in.SoCal]

I hope the best, but you would be one very lucky man if this technique yeilds a perfect axle centerline and no +- toe/camber.

Most likely your axle centerline will be off if all you relied on was the axle spline engagement into the carrier to locate the ends.

Not trying to be negative here, but it is difficult enough keeping things perfect even when using specific tooling for end installation. Good luck.



Jay

Good post Jay. The best in the industry shoot for .003 axle defelction in a jig. It's possible, but do you think you're that close Gui?