Brake lines need pointers

[jpgolf14]

I am just about ready to start running brake lines on 69 camaro, It has art morrison chassis, I am not sure witch direction to go, I thought about stainless, everyone says it's tought to work with, I thought about copper nickel, Just not to hip on the copper looking color, I thought about a roll of the black coated tubing that they use on the newer vehicles. If you order it in a roll, Is it hard to get straigh again? I also thought about mounting proportioning valve under car on frame so It would be out of vision. I also would like to know what you guys are using for clamps to attach it to the frame? or if you have any pics. I would imagine run the brake line down the drivers side and fuel lines down the pass side? Also what are you using for the t fitting on the front and where would be a good place for it? thanks for the advice just want to do it once and be done. I have willwood mc with hydratech booster 6 piston front and 4 on the rear

I just finished bending a hard line for my differential. I used 0.028" wall seamless stainless. I didn't find it hard at all to work with. This is with decent tools. I found it bent and flared pretty easily. This was with single flares. I had no fun trying to double flare it without cracking.

Adel clamps are a good choice. I like rivnuts to attach stuff like the adel clamps to hollow frame rails. Much nicer than sheet metal screws.

Regarding the color. Another option is to use a cover. The cover is nice b/c it comes in many colors and provides abrasion resistance as well. This is my brake line with Techflex flame resistant cover.

[snappytravis]

I just finished bending a hard line for my differential. I used 0.028" wall seamless stainless. I didn't find it hard at all to work with. This is with decent tools. I found it bent and flared pretty easily. This was with single flares. I had no fun trying to double flare it without cracking.

Adel clamps are a good choice. I like rivnuts to attach stuff like the adel clamps to hollow frame rails. Much nicer than sheet metal screws.

Regarding the color. Another option is to use a cover. The cover is nice b/c it comes in many colors and provides abrasion resistance as well. This is my brake line with Techflex flame resistant cover.

Nice, looks like the techflex has heat shrink fittings at the end to keep it in place? Do you mind me asking where you purchased your fittings? I need to buy a t for the front as well, think I will order up a nice flare tool, then I guess you can just do a single flare on stainless from what I understand is that correct? Thanks that line looks good.

[jpgolf14]

Nice, looks like the techflex has heat shrink fittings at the end to keep it in place? Do you mind me asking where you purchased your fittings? I need to buy a t for the front as well, think I will order up a nice flare tool, then I guess you can just do a single flare on stainless from what I understand is that correct? Thanks that line looks good.

Yes it is Techflex brand with heat shrink.

There are several things to keep in mind for the flares. I used 37 (AN) singles flares. This is with SEAMLESS tube. Seamless tube is extruded in the round shape. Most normal tube is welded. In other words it is a flat sheet that is rolled into a circle then welded closed. Then its ground smooth on the outside. If you single flare welded tube, the non-ground inner surface is going to be the sealing surface. This is not recommended as the inner surface because it is not prepared as a sealing surface. This is a primary reason why double flares are used, so the ground outer surface is the sealing surface. So I would not recommend a single flare of any type unless it is on seamless tube. I get my seamless from McMaster Carr but there are plenty of places that supply it.

Other than the 37 degree, there is also the more standard 45 degree (SAE) flare. Typically in a brake application, this is a double flare with welded tube. I would imagine with the strength of stainless, a single 45 flare on seamless tube would be just fine, but do your own research on that one.

Based on the following factors

ease of flare 37 degree single vs 45 degree double
seamless tube availability / price
adapter and fitting availability / price

I ended up using the 37 degree stuff with seamless tube and a single flare. The only downside to this that I see is 37 degree flares are not specifically DOT approved. In reality it is a superior joint to the 45 degree in my opinion. However you may have problems with that in court if you had an accident caused by brake failure.

The parts I used for my rear axle.

6ft 3/16" OD seamless 304 stainless 0.028" wall tube - McMaster Carr 89895K43
37 degree flaring tool - Rigid 377
3/16" tube bender - Rigid 403
4x -3 AN tube nuts - Aeroquip FCM 3591
-3 AN flare tube sleeves - Aeroquip FCM 3667 (pack of 6)
2x bulkhead -3 male to -3 male adapter - Earls 963203
3x 3/16" Adel clamp - Ace Hardware
1x bulkhead tee -3 - XRP 483403

[snappytravis]

Thanks for all the good info, I am definaltly heading towards stainless, with 37 degree, I talked to a friend that was complaining of leaks, I think he was trying to double flare, possibly with the stainless that has the seam, makes sense why he had leaks. I really appreciate all the help. I am in Riverton Wy, and without the guys on this site it would just be a lot more of trial and error for me. I plan to go to vegas for sema and hope to meet a few of you there and a beer or two. think I am going to order up tubing bender and flare tool. Thanks again,

[snappytravis]

So do you think if I bought a 8ft piece of 3/16 I would be able to run it from the mc down the frame rail to center of rear body, then run flex hose down to axle to a t fitting then hard line out to left and right calipers, I also thought about 2 6ft pieces of stainless then mount the proportioning valve under the driver seat on frame rail, then it would also be out of sight, whats your thought on this Idea. thanks

[jpgolf14]

So do you think if I bought a 8ft piece of 3/16 I would be able to run it from the mc down the frame rail to center of rear body, then run flex hose down to axle to a t fitting then hard line out to left and right calipers, I also thought about 2 6ft pieces of stainless then mount the proportioning valve under the driver seat on frame rail, then it would also be out of sight, whats your thought on this Idea. thanks

I'm not sure 8ft is quite going to make it. On my '87 which is a longer car, its about 6ft worth of line to get from my trans cross member to the end of the line where it turn to the axle soft line. I think on my car 8ft wouldn't be enough. It will probably be closer on your car. You may want to crawl under the car and measure the length.