Bazooka or custom woofer box?

[Charles]

Im debating wether I should install a bazooka below my rear package tray in the trunk or build a whole speaker box. The problem is im running air ride tank, compressors, selenoids, rear battery and 2 amps but want to keep a bit of space for show cleaning and storage space. I k ow there is not a lot of space but I think the bazooka could solve this issue and Ill build false panels to hide everything and basically see nothing with some fabric and fiberglass removable panels.

Does anyone have anything against bazookas or know of any good brands out there? Help much appreciated......

[IMPALAMAN1]

Double post

[IMPALAMAN1]

http://www.linearpower.com/detail/speakers/index.html

I think it is their isokit


Sheck this struff out. Not a lot of space and should be enough... Never been a fan of bazooka style setups.

Ray is good people and will take care of you.

[MK69RSSS]

No bazooka

[Garymac69]

Check out what this guy used in the link below, see the 3rd post down. It turned out that my friend had this subwoofer and 400 watt RMS Kicker amp in his dual cab truck. The system rocks! It had all the bass I'll ever need. I plan to go this route in my '69 this winter.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showth...ight=subwoofer

[Charles]

Thanks for the heads up on this stuff guys. Gotta get to sorting out trunk design. Gonna b a bit tricky. Im going to use Re Box Calculator on line web site as some guys here have suggested, this site is very helpful when trying to figure out what size sub enclosure and material to build. Below are some pictures of my air tank and battery tray, but I have already changed my mind on this set up. It is going to be totally different now. I will post some updates this weekend.

[Charles]

Well, I took some advise from guys here on the forum and decided to go with the sub enclosure. I have the air tank mounted between the sub box and the rear seats. Welded some backets to the rear frame and bolted the sub box to them, this way I can take the box out and remove the air tank if I ever need to for whatever reason. I am making all the pieces inside the trunk removable, the bottom filler above the fuel tank will house my amps with some ported plexiglass to see inside and ventilate the enclosure. I will also be making an access door above the fuel sender and pump location from inside the trunk in case I need to check the fuel pump or wiring. I will also need to figure out how to make removable trunk panels (4) pieces total that surrounds the perimeter to make a clean look and hide the speaker box and other stuff. Just doing a little research first before I re-invent the wheel on the panels. Any suggestions??? Here's some progress pictures.

[RSX302]

Well, I took some advise from guys here on the forum and decided to go with the sub enclosure. I have the air tank mounted between the sub box and the rear seats. Welded some backets to the rear frame and bolted the sub box to them, this way I can take the box out and remove the air tank if I ever need to for whatever reason. I am making all the pieces inside the trunk removable, the bottom filler above the fuel tank will house my amps with some ported plexiglass to see inside and ventilate the enclosure. I will also be making an access door above the fuel sender and pump location from inside the trunk in case I need to check the fuel pump or wiring. I will also need to figure out how to make removable trunk panels (4) pieces total that surrounds the perimeter to make a clean look and hide the speaker box and other stuff. Just doing a little research first before I re-invent the wheel on the panels. Any suggestions??? Here's some progress pictures.

What's the size of your enclosure? Have you picked subs yet, size? Ported or sealed? Are you mounting rearward toward the tail lights? Sub manufactures will have all the data needed to match enclosure size with driver(s).

Bazooka's have there place and don't sound that bad,(work well in trucks with limited space) but you will get much better results with a properly built custom enclosure in larger vehicles.

[Charles]

Thanx Ron, I have built the box already as large as I could. I guess I will have to purchase speakers that match my enclosure, I cant build it any larger. I am working on the surrounding trunk finish panels at the moment, going to fiberglass this week. I made some mock up panels with construction paper, now I will be making my panels with some "ram-board" for the radius panels and 1/8" mdf for the flat ones.

[ROBS6T8]

Looks nice just like that... leave it! I'm looking forward to the finished product. I'll tackle this someday on mine.

[BEEBE]

Everything is lookin Killer! Nice work.

If Weight was a concern then i def would of went with the SAS TUBE. I have a had great results with the 10" built in amp Bazooka. Has lasted 8 years of abuse. Not ANYTHING near as heavy as a traditional mdf BOX and amp set up. And another Great Thing about the SAS Bazooka is the ease of removal if you need more room OR If your hittn the Track and want to unload DeaD Weight. Two quick plugs, unstrap the tube and yank it out! Oh yea .... the tube has a built in amp so if you want more bump , it can power another sub so you can run a additional tube or your own sub off of the main unit. One more Great Feature.... it CAN be hooked up to a Stock Stereo. You dont need a custom head unit & amp. It has both low and high level connections . So if you dont have RCA inputs to work with the SAS tube has connections so it taps into your exsisting speakers to get a input signal......pretty slick!!

Just sayin for thoes who have never tried the SAS bazooka Powered 10" dont knock it. Its a pretty powerful, lightweight, easy to use system.

My 2

Beebe

[Charles]

Thanx Robert, mocking-up these panels was not too bad, it took me some time figuring out how I would attach the panels to the trunk. I screwed in some 5/8"x2" strips of MDF onto the trunk perimeter in a couple of spots for backing. I will be adding some seam sealer over my screw heads in the trunk gutter where I drilled through. Now for some fiberglass, I like laying down the glass but hate the sanding it, itches like hell if you dont cover yourself up. With the weather being in the upper 90's here in SoCal....Not gonna be fun.

[Charles]

Some updates from tonite. Replaced the paper mock up with mdf and ram-board. I will start laying the fibetglass tomorrow. I guess ill update the rest of this on the interior forum. Got a bit off topic for the remainder.

[AUTODYNAMICS]

boy that really shrinks the trunk...huh?
im planning on doing it but with a similar material that oem uses, its a real shame to loose all that space in the trunk.
the oem carpet material will follow the contour of the quarter panels
aslo was thinking about a cargo net that could be used or removed......

[Charles]

Yeah. It does shrink the trunk space. I would rather lose some trunk space than see the battery and air compressors. Much cleaner look. The trunk will only be used to store small stuff like cleaning supplies and what not. Im not planning to go camping in it anytime soon.

I still dont know if I should face the speakers up or towards the rear tail lights????

[AUTODYNAMICS]

You have to try it out, you might get cancellation firing down, my experience firing down on certain songs will sound good, and then other times sound muffled until you open the trunk.

[Charles]

I was thinking about installing 2 10" JL Audio facing the tail lights. I dont want ports if the manufacturer does not require them. I prefer the sealed box unless ports make a huge difference. I have some time to do some research for now. Any bad experience without ports? or which speaker would be preferable with ports/without? Thanx autodynamics

[AUTODYNAMICS]

Ports typical will require a larger box, so space for you is an issue, I would opt out of that, older cars trucks are funny what typically would work don't sound good in them and visa Vera.
I would go one f three ways ,
Rear firing along with porting the rear deck Lid to allow the wave to carry into the cabin, front firing into the rear seats, with or with out a port,or rear firing. I would try all of them and see the difference with the trunk open and closed. I bet rear firing there will be some cancellation With the trunk closed,.
Ohhhhhh btw it does depend on the music you listen too, typically hard rock will sound good regardless but tighter boomer bass, might need to be adjusted crossover wise.
Also Jl audio are a good choice, and I would go either with 2 8" or 2 -10's
And a 5 channel amp for the entire vehicle
One chassis = less wire less room and smaller footprint ..

Hope that helps

[Charles]

Thanks bud. I will take your recommendations and try all 3 scenarios. I will be installing two 4" MB Quarts on th kick panels and some tweeters. I will post pics of my home made kick panels later. I will also be installing 5" Mb's on the rear package tray.

[RSX302]

I just caught that you are in Simi. If you'd like, I could swing by and have you listen to my twin CDT EF10's. If I remember right, 1.25cube ea ported.