Cheap parts/Mods for performance? (67RS Camaro)

[Nate_67RS]

ok so i have been restoring my car.Pulled the carpet and rotting headliner out this week no major rusted out spots anywhere that's good but i still have a long way to go. I'm going to lsx the car and i'm leaning towards the lq9/4 but may go with a 5.3 and turbo it down the line i don't really need more than 500 hp and would be happy with 400+ and you can easily do that with a 5.3 a good set of cams and 8psi. But that's not really the reason for this post yes i would like some input on the motors of choice here but there is so much more that i need to make an lsx swap happen and cause i am restoring there is little budget for an lsx swap also i have a family so no getting by on ramen while i throw all my money at cars anymore.

So heres the question what parts can i get cheap or mod to get good performance out of the car and i'll give a list of what i am thinking about to make it easier to pick your brains.

Just a note here the goal is DD with a little autocross and drift thrown in.

1)front suspension)...i have seen alot of 5k full kits out there but what is wrong with modding the oem and if keeping the oem can give good results what do i need to do other than a arms coil-overs and brakes? like how can i reinforce the stock frame and get better adjustment angles for the suspension?

2)Transmission) i have a 2 speed powerglide and love it but i get alot of guys telling me to upgrade and personally i wouldn't mind upgrading to a manual what should i look for at the scrap yards other than t5 camaros and mustangs is there an over looked tranny? i may go with a 3 speed auto tranny cause i can find those built cheap.(again input)



3)Rear end) this is a 2 part question i will probably splurge here and get a tci torque arm suspension kit as it will be where all the power is headed after all but is there a kit under or around a grand that would perform almost as well.Also have a stock 10 bolt open diff on the car obviously a 9 inch is the rear of choice but is there any scrap yard options i heard some of the old jeeps were using dana 60s but not sure which or how cheap also how much work getting it to fit.

4)gas tank/fuel system) lastly as this is a budget build what is the cheapest way to go about getting the 60+ psi i need to to my ls motor. externals are far the cheapest but i don't have a clue what to look for or how to best go about modding my tank which has been off the car for more than a week now drying out so that when i figure out what i am doing i can do it.

I have spent over a year fighting with Google search for options and there are tons out there but it's hard to find ones for guys trying to save money and not break the bank.and any other things you can think of that i didn't address please feel free to list i'd like to make this a thread for people to find solutions on a budget.

thx for taking the time to read and hopefully post i have used the search function to death found a few things but not alot. Like the guy who chopped the middle out of his front subframe and used metal tubing to reconnect it that seems like a good idea both for space for the oil pan and for lightening the load if reinforced well.

I was sent here by the ls1 tech guys i used your search but not easy to find what i am looking for.

[Nate_67RS]

for instance would this be a waste of my money
under 400 for a 4 link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triangulated...#ht_856wt_1163

[69cutlassrkt]

For the transmission something with an overdrive would be ideal for a daily. I think a torque arm for the rear is the way to go, though I think there are a few people on here that have good handling camaros with leaf springs , but idk how they would be for drag racing if you are into that. The gas tank I wouldn't cheap out on it unless you are able to make the stock one work some how with low fuel levels. I have a spectre tank and have to take turns carefully at around half a tank, it gets old especially for a daily.

[shep]

If you are doing a lsx why not get a trans that goes with it. 4l80e, 4l60e, t56 all are standard depending on what the motor came from. For the fuel tank I think you could use the fuel module from a new camaro or corvette and mod an original tank for it to fit.

[Nate_67RS]

the only problem with those transmissions is not a single one of them tend to be budget friendly

[BMR Sales]

ok so i have been restoring my car. i am restoring there is little budget for an lsx swap also i have a family so no getting by on ramen while i throw all my money at cars anymore.

1)front suspension)...i have seen alot of 5k full kits out there but what is wrong with modding the oem and if keeping the oem can give good results what do i need to do other than a arms coil-overs and brakes? like how can i reinforce the stock frame and get better adjustment angles for the suspension?

Nate, Welcome to the site first of all....... you are on a tight budget so I assume you want to get the most for the money and while the complete sub frames are sexy, they are pricey. The struggle alot of guys have is "Do I really need to replace my sub frame"? It really depends on what you plan to do with the car and your budget. For instance we can set you up with a front suspension package for your car with a true coliover conversion & double adjustable QA1's for less than $1,750

3)Rear end) this is a 2 part question i will probably splurge here and get a tci torque arm suspension kit as it will be where all the power is headed after all but is there a kit under or around a grand that would perform almost as well.Also have a stock 10 bolt open diff on the car obviously a 9 inch is the rear of choice but is there any scrap yard options i heard some of the old jeeps were using dana 60s but not sure which or how cheap also how much work getting it to fit.

We offer a true bolt-on rear Torque Arm kit for 67-81 F-Bodies for GM 10 bolts like yours, GM 12 bolts and we even offer a kit that includes a Ford 9" back-braced from Strange Engineering housing.

[19,69camaro]

Ok, first off turbos and budget should not be use in the same sentence. If I were you I would drop in a aluminum 5.3 from a truck with cams and headers and call it a day. You can always always increase the performance later.

For a transmission stick with an auto to get it rolling as it will be way cheaper unless you can find a deal on a t56.

Rear end- there is no reason to get a 9" when a 8.5" 10 bolt will hold up to that power. Look it up there are tons of articles on budget builds.

Rear suspension- Are you going to minitub it? If no just get some drop leafs, but if you are you might as well just get a bolt in triangulated 4-link. I would skip that one you found on ebay and check out ridetech or prodigy bar just to name a few.

Front suspension- Keep the stock subframe. Tubular uppers, stock lowers, Lowering spring with a good shock (coilover are a waste IMO), bigger sway bar, IROC steering box, solid frame bushings. Look it up this subject has been beat to death.

Hope this helps. Most of all you have to be realistic with yourself and what you budget is. Do you want a car that drives and handles well for 99% of all driving you will encounter or do you want to whip it and start measuring.

[Nate_67RS]

Ok, first off turbos and budget should not be use in the same sentence. If I were you I would drop in a aluminum 5.3 from a truck with cams and headers and call it a day. You can always always increase the performance later.

For a transmission stick with an auto to get it rolling as it will be way cheaper unless you can find a deal on a t56.

Rear end- there is no reason to get a 9" when a 8.5" 10 bolt will hold up to that power. Look it up there are tons of articles on budget builds.

Rear suspension- Are you going to minitub it? If no just get some drop leafs, but if you are you might as well just get a bolt in triangulated 4-link. I would skip that one you found on ebay and check out ridetech or prodigy bar just to name a few.

Front suspension- Keep the stock subframe. Tubular uppers, stock lowers, Lowering spring with a good shock (coilover are a waste IMO), bigger sway bar, IROC steering box, solid frame bushings. Look it up this subject has been beat to death.

Hope this helps. Most of all you have to be realistic with yourself and what you budget is. Do you want a car that drives and handles well for 99% of all driving you will encounter or do you want to whip it and start measuring.

First i would like to thank all of you for your input and yes turbo and budget don't agree with each other. I have done a few. but i just mentioned that cause that will be a down the road project. right now budget pertains to the body and how to get it running and enjoyable as i have to combine modernizing and restoring on this phase of the project. and thank you i will look into all of what you listed.

[makoshark]

One other thing, don't forget the steering system. The stock setup is not fun driving in modern traffic. Also brakes! I have over $3 grand in my brake and steering system. I'm not running anything particularly special on my brakes either

[brownz]

Aldin,

That is the same thing that Im doing to my 72 nova as we speak!!! to me this will be the best way to get a car that will hold up well to any driving you can do and some auto-x use

[19,69camaro]

Good to see someone is doing the sensible thing. I wish I could follow my own advice, but when I took my car apart I noticed that the subframe was tweaked along with the floor pan, and the firewall. Long story short I have a full frame car with now that is overbudget and nowhere near completed.

[makoshark]

Suspension: Hotchkis springs front and rear. Del-rin bushings for control arms or aftermarket control arms. G-mod (free).

Transmission: Overdrive! Did I say overdrive You will not like driving your car without it.

Rearend: stick with the 10 bolt. It is plenty strong enough

Engine: stick with SBC till funds allow for the LSX switch. Don't be fooled, the LS swap can get costly. Keeping the SBC will allow you to run the stock fuel system also. Fuel system can get very costly as well.

You didn't say budget, you said 'cheap', so there is the cheapest way to get your car going and kick some butt with it.

I have well over $20 grand in my drivetrain and suspension. I am running ridetech/ATS front and rear suspension with SBC and auto overdrive. It gets very expensive very quickly.

[Twentyover]

Only Mako has mentioned the G-mod? Free, and improves negative camber gain in roll... Make sure the aftermarket arms add caster if you choose to purchase a set. Or modify your factory arms for better caster. Or change the G-mod to add additional caster. So for maybe a hundred bucks you eliminate the need for aftermarket arms and get the benefit (more caster) they might provide.

Ride height adjustment- use a set of adjustable spring height adjusters like the ones stock car racers use. About $50 a set and uses regular or adjustable shocks. You can notch the subframe and the spring plate so no need to drop the lower A-arm to adjust ride height. Harder to adjust ride height,but makes coil overs little more than bling.

Other than that, I agree w/ 19.69 Camaro

Thought the guy said on the cheap.

[Nate_67RS]

Also i saw a guy who had cut the whole middle out of the frame and welded in a few tubs and some bracing to his factory subframe to make room for the lsx he was using. I was thinking of doing the same but not just for the ls but it would lower the front end weight a little as well and if done right would improve the strength of the frame can you see any reason not to do it?

i want to add some frame bracing to the firewall as well but where else can i cut/weld in metal to help solidify that frame more? a few years ago i was talking to a guy who's father used to race the 60 camaros in the euro circuit and he talked about how they would add 1/4 bent steel plates to all the bent areas of the frame (not bent like from wreck but where the factory bends are) and supposedly this greatly improved there cornering and track times. can anyone confirm this story?

[makoshark]

The factory subframe, after welding the seams, is quite strong and it is not much heavier than aftermarket frames. You will get into a territory you may not want to be into if you do that. I suggest further research. Look up David Pozzi and look at his website. He has a wealth of knowledge with these old cars and their suspension. His website will save you lots of money and grief

[Nate_67RS]

ment cheap i am limiting my sell to a yearly budget as to get the project finished and to make myself focus more on whats needed what isn't and how i can do it myself end game is just under 20k for the build but i am staggering that over the next 5 years. this year is restoration,budget planning,suspension and fuel system update. if i can spend less i will.But i want a DD the inline 250 is a tired old girl so i may settle on a 5.3 over an lq4/9 just to beable to swap that out next summer. i am asking alot of questions cause i want to get a rock solid plan in place before i start doing anything other than the resto thats very straite forward. I have built plenty of strait line cars thats not even a prob this one is special though my aunt was the first owner and i have been holding onto the old girl for far too long now not to do this restomod right. I want it to be fun to drive not just hit the track but hit the corners and maybe a little drifting just to show the rice punks in the area how american muscle gets it done.

now as for the glide i have driven 3 cars with glides over the years and 2 of them were DDs only thing i ever didn't like about it was sitting at the pump (thats may also have had help from my lead foot)