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    Page 4 of 7 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 LastLast
    Results 61 to 80 of 124
    1. #61
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 1fststang View Post
      Rusty,

      Is that roll bar from Mustangs to fear ? if so it looks like you welded it in as opposed to being able to unbolt it and remove it is that what you did?

      How was fitment and are you happy with it?
      We bought a Mustang to Fear roll bar but it did not fit right. The top center bend was not in the middle, the bar was twisted and the bends were not the same on both sides. We took a lot of measurements and the owner bought some new material and went to ART (Applied Racing Technology) in Clearwater Fl. with the original roll bar. They wanted to make it flat across the top but the owner wanted it like the Mustang to Fear bar but bent in the center. They put the dimensions in the computer and bent a new bar and it is almost perfect it's off a little at the bottom but the trim panel covers that.



      It bolts in the front brace is welded to the bar.
      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder


    2. #62
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      I have had questions wanting to know what issue this would be in and I'm happy to say it's in the March issue that just went to the printers.



      This is what Brian has been fabricating. It is an under the dash hood release. The hood required a lot of fabrication along with this latch that came off of another Ford. To find out all the details you will have to read the build story in an upcoming issue of Modified Mustangs & Fords magazine.

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    3. #63
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      We wanted the rear to look stock so I sprayed it SPI red oxide epoxy



      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    4. #64
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      The engine came in a couple of weeks ago



      We had to change the motor mounts to Ron Morris adjustable to clear the hood.





      It runs on pump gas and makes 502HP @5900 and 533 ftlbs torque @3600. Click to see the video.

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    5. #65
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Posts
      29

      couple questions Rusty

      Engine looks sweet. Is that a concept one serpentine belt system?

      I see you used Ron Morris mounts. So this fits under factory hood?

      I am assuming that is a 351w based stroker. Mind telling me what intake he is using?

      I am installing a 351w stroker as well and hoping to fit under a factory hood and I am using the edelbrock rpm air gap and I have the r morris mounts with lower plates. According to my measurements I think it will just clear.

      Also on the roll bar plates how thick are they? I am installing one that has 1/4" thick plates and wishing I had a 220v mig instead on 110v.





      Quote Originally Posted by rusty428cj View Post
      The engine came in a couple of weeks ago



      We had to change the motor mounts to Ron Morris adjustable to clear the hood.





      It runs on pump gas and makes 502HP @5900 and 533 ftlbs torque @3600. Click to see the video.


    6. #66
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 1fststang View Post
      Engine looks sweet. Is that a concept one serpentine belt system?

      I see you used Ron Morris mounts. So this fits under factory hood?

      I am assuming that is a 351w based stroker. Mind telling me what intake he is using?

      I am installing a 351w stroker as well and hoping to fit under a factory hood and I am using the edelbrock rpm air gap and I have the r morris mounts with lower plates. According to my measurements I think it will just clear.

      Also on the roll bar plates how thick are they? I am installing one that has 1/4" thick plates and wishing I had a 220v mig instead on 110v.
      We are waiting for a dropped air cleaner base to give us a little more clearance.

      The block, heads and intake came from Dart

      Yes it is Concept One and the owner wanted it black.

      Roll bar mount kit came from Mustangs to Fear and I don't know how thick it is.
      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    7. #67
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      SLC. UT
      Posts
      368
      Great work! I like all the progress pictures.

      Jeff -- 96 Mustang - 2V Stroked Modular Turbo // 13 RAPTOR // 67 Mustang Fastback build - Coyote 5.0

    8. #68
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      The owner wanted the car assembled so the stainless exhaust could be designed to fit around the Total Control Products rear suspension and subframe connectors in case anything had to be modified before paint.

      On the way to the exhaust shop on a dreary rainy day here in Florida

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    9. #69
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      SF Bay Area
      Posts
      463
      Quote Originally Posted by rusty428cj View Post
      You get a vin from Dynacorn.
      But, I'm guessing, that these VIN's issued by Dynacorn are nothing like the original Ford VIN's, right? So, subsequent buyers will be able to immediately tell this is a aftermarket car. Meaning, I guess you could add whatever options you wanted and call it 'original'
      chunger

      '68 Ranchero 500
      '70 Cougar XR-7 Convertible
      '98 Mustang GT Convertible

    10. #70
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      left coast
      Posts
      147
      Country Flag: United States
      Really liking the forum over my usual reading, especially with all the hands on work, helps to eliminate allot of questions. Back on page three you did something to the roof/quarter seam and A pillar that really caught my attention. Rather than soldier or fill, you welded in a plate between the roof line and quarter panel. Looked awesome, great idea. Realizing these joints flex in a typical unibody, but I also have subframe connectors and front torque boxes in my 66 coupe. Will that joint hold up? If it does, I plan on doing the same. I replaced a full quarter and have been questioning what to do to fill the seam.

    11. #71
      Join Date
      Mar 2009
      Location
      left coast
      Posts
      147
      Country Flag: United States
      Whats the possibility of getting the measuments and bends on the rollbar? fax ya a beer.. . .

    12. #72
      Join Date
      Jan 2012
      Posts
      35
      Country Flag: United States

    13. #73
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      Sorry I have forgotten to update.

      Stainless exhaust







      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    14. #74
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      Brian cut the holes for the speaker and light in the door and lined up the trim





      We removed the engine and transmission



      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    15. #75
      Join Date
      Jun 2015
      Location
      San Diego
      Posts
      165
      thats one hot stang

    16. #76
      Join Date
      May 2013
      Location
      nj
      Posts
      4
      Country Flag: United States
      Great thread..alot of work for a new body.enjoying the build. Thanks

    17. #77
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      A few new problems. Brian is test fitting the windshield molding and of course they don't fit.



      The next problem is the brackets for the fold down rear seat are welded in the wrong location on the wheelhouse



      This is how it should be mounted



      It is mounted to high



      This is the opposite side

      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

    18. #78
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Apex, NC
      Posts
      1,020
      Country Flag: United States
      Starting to come together

    19. #79
      Join Date
      May 2010
      Location
      British Columbia
      Posts
      509
      I noticed that you've used sheet metal screws to retain the windshield trim . I'll have to as well , do you re-call what size screws they are ?. Nice build by the way .

    20. #80
      Join Date
      Sep 2009
      Location
      Port Richey Fl
      Posts
      775
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by langleylad View Post
      I noticed that you've used sheet metal screws to retain the windshield trim . I'll have to as well , do you re-call what size screws they are ?. Nice build by the way .

      The reason we had to go with the screw in studs was because they broke when you attached a clip and they were in the wrong place

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/CRL-4-X-3-8-...item2a41740835
      Rusty Gillis

      Former SS/FA & SS/GA NHRA National Record Holder

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