67 Butternut Build

[sjaroslo]

It's been a while since the last update, so we're probably due. EBMC has been cranking on the car pretty frequently, considering how many cars they have in the shop, so I've been grateful. A lot of time has gone into working on the exhaust, as it turns out that the pipes from the headers to the mufflers were pretty beat up, plus they've been working on getting the tailpipes cleanly up-and-over the g-link. The oval tubing that was purchased was not quite up to snuff out of the box, so unfortunately EBMC has had to burn a few hours making it right so that the total package is going to look and perform appropriately. As previously chronicled, they purchased a Viper-to-T56 scattershield, which has just a skosh more room in it, plus a 1/4" spacer to pull the input shaft back a little bit and allow the clutch disks to ride the splines and not jam against their shoulder. An OEM-style throwout was also procured.
Attachment 110628

Interesting note about the Viper scattershield--it appears that they have made a running production change and are now clocking the transmission a few degrees off from straight up-and-down. So this looks kind of funky from underneath, so the guys fabbed up a little shield that hides the angle from the eye and makes it look more pleasing--even though most people will never see this view. I really like that.Attachment 110626Attachment 110627

Several months ago, I was able to purchase a brand new CTS-V clutch & flywheel at a reasonable price from a member of this board who just happened to live a few blocks away from me; my thinking was that I would squirrel it away for the inevitable rainy day, but when I realized how much trans stuff was going on to fix this issue, I decided that I'd have EBMC install the nice new shiny parts on the car, and I will put the "unused" but still new, lightly surface-rusted stuff up for sale (along with the "unused" new original scattershield) and hopefully re-coup a bit of the money that is going out.



Other chores that I've tasked Steve and the crew with (or that they've discovered):
rear end was 1/4" off-center
notched the scattershield for improved header clearance (more on that later)
verify the starter gear depth and alignment (I wasn't able to do that with the engine and trans together initially)
new clutch bleeder line (more on that later)
V-Band clamps and associated welding
Fill trans with fluid
Fill brakes with fluid and bleed
tunnel clearanced for trans
driveline angles were established & Driveshaft has been ordered and installed!
Shifter opening has been cleaned up a ton and a screw-in cover plate fabricated, which will have just as small a hole where the shifter needs to poke through--can't express how happy I am with this improvement!
Attachment 110629Attachment 110630

With regard to the header clearance, I approved Steve's suggestion that we modify the header angle in addition to notching the scattershield. The headers just were not aligning well with the cutouts in the Morrison subframe, and we really didn't want to be having to wrangle things into position under tension in order to get it to fit nicely. Frank touted these headers as custom units that he had commissioned from Stainless Works that would work with a variety of aftermarket sub-frames, but whether that is true or not, I couldn't say. Either way, they just weren't quite cutting it so they went under the knife. I hate having to pay for things that I've already paid for! They are adding V-Band clamps at the headers and the back of the mufflers, so future re-assembly should be a heck of a lot easier.

With regard to the clutch bleeder line, they were planning on re-using the AP Racing M/C that was already there and just running a new line to the slave, but realized late in the game that the line attached to the M/C was a captive line--you couldn't remove the line that was there and replace it with something of a different length, etc., so we'll be replacing the entire clutch M/C and line with something new, possibly from Wilwood. In a perfect world, I am hoping that EBMC might be able to weld in the bracket to the firewall and give me a fighting chance of being watertight! But I think that will be tough with a finished firewall already there. At least with a completely new mechanical set up, I'll be able to rely on them to check the clutch geometry and install a clutch pedal stop, if deemed necessary, etc.

I believe that more work is scheduled for this week, so I am going to be anxiously looking forward to new updates and the next opportunity to pay the shop a visit. Thanks for taking the time to follow along.

[sjaroslo]

OK, either the Forum or me is having a bad night, I'm done screwing around with these photos, sorry!

[Spork82]

Steve I'm happy to hear that the end is near and more importanly you will have a safe and functional car! Keep us updated with the progress and see some pictures of this machine on the road!

I have a small update on my build but its not a good one, it involves a closed trailer and faulty straps...(More likely my fault for rushing)

[Motown 454]

Sounds like its going well for you, glad to hear it. I couldn't see the photos either. I'll be watching for them later.

[KB Camaro]

hi sorry if i missed it but what headers are you running?

[sjaroslo]

They are from Stainless Works. The original builder claimed that they were made custom for him to be used in a variety of sub-frames but I'm not sure that I believe that story now. They work pretty well in my Art Morrison sub-frame with the exception of the bungs for the 0₂ sensors, which pointed outboard and were mere inches away from the frame--no way to get a sensor in there. I bought stainless plugs and bungs from Stainless Works and closed op the original holes and had a local welder add the new bungs on the inboard side of the collector, where there is plenty of room. Thanks for reading.

[snappytravis]

They are from Stainless Works. The original builder claimed that they were made custom for him to be used in a variety of sub-frames but I'm not sure that I believe that story now. They work pretty well in my Art Morrison sub-frame with the exception of the bungs for the 0₂ sensors, which pointed outboard and were mere inches away from the frame--no way to get a sensor in there. I bought stainless plugs and bungs from Stainless Works and closed op the original holes and had a local welder add the new bungs on the inboard side of the collector, where there is plenty of room. Thanks for reading.

Mine are the same,, Never could figure that one out. I had issues with the collector lining up with the AME crossmember where the holes are.. I almost wish I had gone with some of the shorter style headers. Then you could do your down pipe and make it where you need it to be in the crossmember. Hope your making progress Steve.

[sjaroslo]

Yep, the team at East Bay Muscle cars had to spend quite a bit of time working over the headers to clear the scattershield and to line up with the clearance notches in the subframe. If these were custom made headers they didn't fit the bill very well....

[sjaroslo]

Kusi was asking about my Ironworks throttle bracket. Here are a couple of pictures, showing the additional bracing that EBMC added (rod from bracket to steering column mounting stud) and trying to show how the pedals lay out--probably NOT as GM envisioned....

[Motown 454]

Hi Steve have you tried out sitting in it to see how the placement for the pedal feels? I may end up with one of these brackets for my 69.

[KUSI]

Thanks for posting the pictures. I am sure this is going to help out quite a few people trying to decide what to do about their dbw pedal. There are obviously other options such as fab bosses or welding plates if you are still in the prefab/prepaint phase. However, if you have a completed or smoothed firewall you are probably just left with this Ironworks setup/Cadillac CTS-V pedal or using the Detroit Speed setup with the Corvette style pedal. Good luck with the rest of the build.

[sjaroslo]

Here's what I wrote to KUSI:

Overall I am happy with the Ironworks bracket. I will try to get out there in the next day or two to show you a picture. There are a couple of minor drawbacks, I think, though. I have to say, I haven't gotten my car running, so I've never driven it, so these are just static observations. I'm just about 6' tall, but I'm pretty heavy, and I think that I'm going to be pretty uncomfortable with things the way they are currently. I think that the pedal could be moved another 1" or 2" away from me and still have plenty of room to function (but I don't know how that will line up with GM's pedal spacing recommendations). The brake pedal doesn't feel in an uncomfortable position for me but I'm afraid that the gas might be. The 2nd issue with the bracket is that it is only held in place around the steering column, and the actual bracket where the pedal attaches is kind of "cantilevered" out and is just sort of hanging in free space. While the bracket is in fact pretty beefy steel, it still has a little bit of flex out there.... Probably not serious but just kind of weird. You'll see from my pictures that East Bay Muscle Cars just welded a small support rod to it that stiffens it up a bit.

The whole reason that I bought the bracket in the first place was so that I didn't have to do any welding, but had I known that I was going to have to put the car into another high end shop for the repairs that I did, I would have just asked them to fab and weld a mount directly to the floor. But for a no-weld solution, I haven't seen anything else out there and it is an OK part. It does come as raw metal so you'll definitely want to plan on paint or powdercoat (which is what I did).

[Motown 454]

Thanks for reposting that reply. I'm in the same boat with my fire wall painted already

[sjaroslo]

I know that I haven't posted in a LONG time and while it IS unfortunately a reflection of some frustration and mildly waning interest, this is a milestone event nonetheless, so I wanted to share with the PT community.

https://youtu.be/MmUZG-bqN3w

After returning from a 10 or 15 minute cruise around the block (and around and around and around), I was starting to hear some unusual groans from the passenger rear, and when I walked over to that corner after parking I could feel a wave of heat coming off the wheel and wheelwell, so I suspect that maybe I'm dragging a parking brake there? Regardless, it needs attention before I can start to deal with the 100 other things that have now popped up....

But the ride was not too bad and oh, my, the Magnum T56 shifts like butter. I'm definitely not good at feeling where the clutch take-up is, yet, so starting out from a stop was fairly comical.

[Motown 454]

Congrats Steve, you talk about 100 things to do, at least with taking it for a ride you can identify them now. Keep plugging away.

[sjaroslo]

I have no choice! :-)

[130fe]

Steve, good to see it moving! My wife was laughing about the neighbors car alarm set off by your car. What are the gauges do you have in the console? Who makes them?

[sjaroslo]

Steve, good to see it moving! My wife was laughing about the neighbors car alarm set off by your car. What are the gauges do you have in the console? Who makes them?

All of the gauges I'm using are from New Vintage USA. Still haven't figured out why the air/fuel gauge and the oil temperature gauge aren't working. Got the tach working (it needed the pull-up resistor that they talked about in the instructions and that was provided) but I have it set up for an 8-cylinder and I guess the GM controller puts out a 4-cylinder signal. Speedo isn't working but I think that's because I need to calibrate it before it will work. "Check engine" light I don't think is working because the polarity needs to be inverted to match what the GM unit puts out.

Obviously haven't lived with them long enough to form any opinions yet.

[sjaroslo]

Drips on drips on drips!

[sjaroslo]

I'm really pleased with the results of this, for a first time effort and with everything being pretty bone stock. 500+ at the rear wheels is more than anything I've ever owned. Turn up the volume and enjoy!

https://youtu.be/F12qENxynoo