1967 Firebird hidden upgrades.

[robscar]

Hi all, new here. Will be picking up a 79k mile survivor Firebird this weekend. I don't plan on doing any type of racing, autox, or hardcore driving with it. It is a OHC 6 car, which is actually what I wanted. What I do want is to do some minor improvements while retaining the completely stock appearance I'm thinking offset upper control arm shafts, tall upper ball joints, and tall tie rod ends. Along with a larger front sway bar and better shocks all the way around. This should all be relatively unnoticeable. Maybe throw in a quicker ratio steering box, a factory front disc brake setup should round out the package.
Is my thinking sound on this? Not looking for slot car handling, just some improvement over the poor factory geometry.
Then it will be a 200r4 trans, 3:90 or 4:10 rear gear to make her a little snappier around town while giving some good highway cruising manners. All hidden of course.
Open to all suggestions.

[Mingus]

Sounds like a good plan for what you are trying to do. You didn't mention what size wheels your planning on. Not sure you can run the tall ball joint with a stock size wheel. Might look into the Guldstrand mod too.

[robscar]

I was thinking of running 15 x 7 Chrome Rally II wheels front and rear. A little more weight, but they look soo good.
I had thought about doing the Gul mod, but that level of accuracy may be a little beyond my skill level.

[robscar]

Okay, just printed the G-mod templates. I'll have to consider doing this. Every I had read previously had cutting and rewelding the bracket involved, so this may be doable.
I had also forgot to mention changing out the rear mono leaf spring for multi leaf units for the smoother ride they will offer.

[68Formula]

Verify your hole distances are correct, so that you have the template scaled properly. You will probably need tubular control arms to avoid having them contact the bracket. There's also different versions of the Guldstrand, so it may depend on which version (how much drop) it provides.

Mark the holes with a center punch, and start out will a small bit so it doesn't walk off center, then work your way up to the full hole size.

Switching to the 15s will probably give you more tire choices as well.

[67rally]

You will probably need tubular control arms to avoid having them contact the bracket.

I'm not sure that fits into his hidden upgrades theme though.

[BMR Sales]

Hi all, new here. Will be picking up a 79k mile survivor Firebird this weekend. It is a OHC 6 car, which is actually what I wanted.

I love the OHC Firebirds! Make sure you post some pics...... Take a look at the body bushings too and get some new black poly bushings.

[a67]

Not in the hidden mod department, but make sure that you use ZDDP+ with every oil change. The cams in those engines typically lasted about 60K miles. With today's oil likely a lot less unless an additive is used. And don't over-rev it. I cracked the block of one doing that. Still ran, but leaked oil & coolant.

Other hidden mods are to use heavier springs and sway bars. Better a-arm bushings. For factory disc brakes, look for the '69 and up set up. They use a single piston floating caliper instead of the '67-'68 4-piston fixed caliper.

Bob.

P.S. I see you are in Pa. Consider antique tags for it. No need to get it inspected every year, so no one else needs to touch or drive your car.

[68Formula]

I'm not sure that fits into his hidden upgrades theme though.

True, but then he only has the tall ball joint option.

He could also put the suspension in full droop and measure the clearance from the control arm to the bracket (put some clay in between, measure the thickness). Then figure out how much he can lower the mounting points. Take the G-mod template, draw lines between the new centers and the old of the template, and then move the new holes up the appropriate amount, so as not to bottom out on the bracket. Of course, you won't get the same amount of camber correction, but it would still be better than stock.

[robscar]

I was wondering if I had to absolutely use the template, or if I could use it as a guide and adjust the holes so as not to hit the bracket. I think I just need to leave enough metal around the new holes to prevent any stress fractures or metal fatigue so it does not break the new hole. Does that make sense?

[68Formula]

I was wondering if I had to absolutely use the template, or if I could use it as a guide and adjust the holes so as not to hit the bracket. I think I just need to leave enough metal around the new holes to prevent any stress fractures or metal fatigue so it does not break the new hole. Does that make sense?

That was what I was trying to say in my above post. You're right about making sure you have some material between the holes that it doesn't cause a weak spot. You could weld a bracket over the old holes to add strength. Or maybe cut down some bolts super short to fill them in, if you don't want to weld brackets over the old holes.

[First Bird]

Hi robscar, I like to do mods that don't show too. On my 1968 Firebird I did the Guldstrand Mod, solid UCA bushings, offset UCA shafts, powdercoated UCA's and Bilstein shocks. Here's a picture. (Couldn't rotate the darn thing) When I did the GM I used a template and tapped marks where to drill, just like the others have said. But after I drilled the first hole I put a bolt through it and the UCA shaft. Then looking in the other hole in the shaft I could verify if the hole spacing was correct. Better than relying on just a paper pattern. I used the old UCA shaft as a guide to drill the second hole.

[Widetrax]

First bird,
That is a great idea to use the old UCA Shaft to drill the second hole! Thanks! I will do that when I do the GM on my 68-FB

[robscar]

Thanks for the picture. I'm still waiting on my Proforged tall up ball joints. They were in the process of moving when I ordered them. After talking to the gent there I decided to just do the bolt on parts for now to see how well she does before going with the GM.