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    Results 1 to 15 of 15
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      38

      front end rub problems

      I purchased Hotchkis TVS kit with 3 inch drop springs for my 68 firebird. Engine is a 461 stroker with aluminum heads. When I called Hotchkis they said I need to use the small block springs part# 1937f. However, this is not working with my current wheel setup up front which is 235/40/18x8. Wheel backspace is 4.75. Any bump I go over it hits the fender. I know that many people run that combo, so I'm looking for advice on what you guys are doing to make this work. My thoughts are to either adjust my shocks (varishocks) to the stiffest setting, get 225 tires, or change to the Hotchkis big block springs which are only 2inch drop. My front suspension is otherwise stock. Any insight would be appreciated.

    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2009
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      1,231
      Isn't a 461 a BB? In that case, those springs you have are way to light. The aluminum heads will make the drop slightly less, IIRC, but wouldn't mean you need SB springs.
      Dan
      1968 Camaro v2
      LS6 :: Viper T56 :: C5 Brakes :: Hotchkis Suspension


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      38
      I thought the same, but Hotchkis recommends the small block springs for that engine. I think that may be the problem



    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      bowling green,ky
      Posts
      845
      Country Flag: United States

      front end rub problems

      Is it a Chevy or Pontiac engine. Pontiac doesn't have big block. They are all classified the same
      69 Camaro
      03 z06
      90 mustang coupe

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      38
      its a Pontiac engine

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by dirtybird View Post
      its a Pontiac engine
      General (web) consensus is 575 for an all iron SBC, vs 600-650 for stock Pontiac (not sure why the range). With the alum. heads, you should be pretty close to the SBC. Question is: is the ride height what you want now, or are you just wanting to raise it to wherever the tires clear?

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    7. #7
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      216
      I use a 4 7/8 backspacing on my front 18x8 rim and run a 245/40/18 on it, no rubbing. I have just about 3" of drop. I do have to run about 1.5 degrees of camber to keep the tire out of the inner fender tho.

      Switching your tire to a 225 will only help if the overall tire height is shorter, and even then, you'll only gain 1/2 the clearance of the overall height difference. The simple fix since you're most likely not going to have the rim machined down to increase the backspacing, is to throw a spring spacer (isolator) between the coil and the LCA spring pocket to raise the car.
      - David
      1967 Camaro - In remembrance of my friend Scott

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      38
      Quote Originally Posted by exwestracer View Post
      General (web) consensus is 575 for an all iron SBC, vs 600-650 for stock Pontiac (not sure why the range). With the alum. heads, you should be pretty close to the SBC. Question is: is the ride height what you want now, or are you just wanting to raise it to wherever the tires clear?
      I really like the look of the 3 inch drop, but I would raise it up an inch if it would make a difference. Will post up pics in a minute

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      38
      Quote Originally Posted by MyFriendScott View Post
      I use a 4 7/8 backspacing on my front 18x8 rim and run a 245/40/18 on it, no rubbing. I have just about 3" of drop. I do have to run about 1.5 degrees of camber to keep the tire out of the inner fender tho.

      Switching your tire to a 225 will only help if the overall tire height is shorter, and even then, you'll only gain 1/2 the clearance of the overall height difference. The simple fix since you're most likely not going to have the rim machined down to increase the backspacing, is to throw a spring spacer (isolator) between the coil and the LCA spring pocket to raise the car.
      I have a spacer in there now, but I see that as a temporary fix. If I can't make the 3 inch drop springs work, then I will go with the bb springs I guess.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      38
      I do have to run about 1.5 degrees of camber to keep the tire out of the inner fender tho.

      How did you do that?

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      38
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    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2009
      Location
      New Derry, PA
      Posts
      1,265
      Country Flag: United States
      I think I'd work on the camber curve (which needs help anyway). The "G mod" or tall upper ball joints will help the top of the tire move IN under compression, so you might kill two birds (no pun intended) with one stone...without spending a ton of money.

      Ray Kaufman - Wyotech Chassis Fab and High Performance Instructor. Words of Wisdom from an old master... at Asylum Custom Interiors website

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2012
      Location
      So Cal (818)
      Posts
      243
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by exwestracer View Post
      I think I'd work on the camber curve (which needs help anyway). The "G mod" or tall upper ball joints will help the top of the tire move IN under compression, so you might kill two birds (no pun intended) with one stone...without spending a ton of money.
      This is great advice to listen to. Having the camber curve corrected will help, but the 67/68 inner fender well can be massaged a little if needed as well. The 69 inner and outer fender have more room.

    14. #14
      Join Date
      May 2011
      Location
      Central FL
      Posts
      216
      Yeah, I think the 67-68 Camaro inner fenders are different from the Firebird's so I may be getting away with a little more drop than you due to the difference in sheet metal. To add more static camber, you'll have to add more alignment shims between the upper control arm's cross bar and the control arm bracket. This will effectively pull the top of the tire inward. I should mention that I don't have a tall upper ball joint, but do have tubular control arms. With the control arms, camber settings, and lowered stance, the top of my wheel moves inward on compression rather than outward like a stock setup.

      The car's looking great BTW. Love your rim choice.
      - David
      1967 Camaro - In remembrance of my friend Scott

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Florida
      Posts
      38
      Thnks for the advice guys. I will definitely start looking at the tall upper ball joints and/or G Mod




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