Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
    Results 21 to 29 of 29
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Henderson,NV
      Posts
      2,870
      Country Flag: United States
      Mostly city with the AC on, that would be normal.
      Todd

    2. #22
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Houma, Louisiana
      Posts
      305
      Country Flag: United States
      Probably have to also flush the block real good now, along with cleaning the radiator again. Glad you found the problem.


      Bill Haynie

      1970 Nova 572/620 TKO600
      2013 Boss 302 Laguna Seca



    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jun 2010
      Location
      Georgia
      Posts
      2,177
      Country Flag: United States
      in addition to flushing the block, flush the water pump AND the heater core. You will probably need to flush everything 2-4x to be sure you get it all out.

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Denver
      Posts
      325
      Country Flag: United States
      Turns out it isn't the radiator. Still overheats at slow speeds and stop n go. Gets up to 214 at intake sensor and 250 in cylinder head. Ron Davis has been tremendous about helping me troubleshoot this problem. They suggested doing a block pressure test. So I plumbed up a 15 psi fuel gauge into cylinder head. With stock style thermostat...which they advise anyway...and one small hole drilled at cold startup only had about 6 lbs at idle and at 2000 rpm shot up to only 8 psi. They told me it should be 14 psi min at 2000 rpms. It looks like its narrowing down to water pump. I spoke with Stewart's and they agreed. A while back I took it apart and sent pics of internals and they said impellar was correct rotation. Well now I'll pull it off and send it to them and let them look at it. Stewart's has been good about helping too. We'll see what happens but i've had to have serious patience yet persistence through this. It's been 4-5 months plus a complete re build and another head removal to rule every other possibility out . Fingers crossed!
      David Beckstrom DVM

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Jan 2003
      Location
      Arizona
      Posts
      5,394
      Country Flag: United States
      Having spent many moons working for a prominent engine casting manufacturer, it sure sounds like a piece of casting flash or slag has broken free and is selectively blocking a cooling passage. A jacketed casting is, by far, THE hardest part to manufacture with its cast ID and OD surfaces. Once in a while, a bum casting materializes that causes en engine to suffer mysterious nuclear meltdowns. It's a rare occurrence, but not impossible. To make matters worse, the blockage can move around with coolant flow such that a cursory probe can come up false. It's kinda like a hot rod embolism.
      If you have exhausted every other option, pull the freeze plugs, buy a set of engine cleaning brushes (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-61820/) and really validate every passage. All that remains after that fun experiment is to pull the engine, have the block and heads hot tanked, then reassemble the engine. I know that's bad news but it's cheaper than buying a new block.
      Best of luck and hang in there!
      ________________
      Steve Chryssos

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Sep 2007
      Location
      Denver
      Posts
      325
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by streetfytr68 View Post
      Having spent many moons working for a prominent engine casting manufacturer, it sure sounds like a piece of casting flash or slag has broken free and is selectively blocking a cooling passage. A jacketed casting is, by far, THE hardest part to manufacture with its cast ID and OD surfaces. Once in a while, a bum casting materializes that causes en engine to suffer mysterious nuclear meltdowns. It's a rare occurrence, but not impossible. To make matters worse, the blockage can move around with coolant flow such that a cursory probe can come up false. It's kinda like a hot rod embolism.
      If you have exhausted every other option, pull the freeze plugs, buy a set of engine cleaning brushes (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-61820/) and really validate every passage. All that remains after that fun experiment is to pull the engine, have the block and heads hot tanked, then reassemble the engine. I know that's bad news but it's cheaper than buying a new block.
      Best of luck and hang in there!
      luckily i have already disassembled the motor and studied every passage in the block and cylinder head and found nothing.the coolant passages around the cylinders in the block are big and easy to see. originally i suspected just what you've mentioned.
      David Beckstrom DVM

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Houma, Louisiana
      Posts
      305
      Country Flag: United States
      David,

      I have so far used 2 Edelbrock water pumps on my 572, one a standard rotation and a reverse rotation when I installed the Concept one pulley system.
      Both have had no problem keeping the 572 cool. Hope you get the problem resolved soon before you overheat her too much.


      Bill Haynie

      1970 Nova 572/620 TKO600
      2013 Boss 302 Laguna Seca



    8. #28
      Join Date
      Dec 2025
      Posts
      1

      what was the final verdict on 572

      What was the outcome on this 572 issue?........I know you get the award for incredible persistence and patience.

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Nov 2018
      Posts
      941
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by bmwbob2 View Post
      What was the outcome on this 572 issue?........I know you get the award for incredible persistence and patience.



      2021 Durango R/T
      2005 Dakota beater
      2003 Dakota project-o-mobile


    Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com