Am I missing something for a proper brake setup?

[ryeguy2006a]

Ok, I know I have posted some crazy ideas for my rear brakes, but have decided to just use two LS1 left side brake assembly's for my rear brakes. I recently took my car for a drive and I need rear axle bearings, and since I need to pull the axles for that I might as well swap out the backing plates while I am at it. Since I don't want to do that twice.

Now, I already have the C5 front brakes up front with stainless steel brake hoses, a C3 manual disk/disk master, stock proportioning valve, and stock rear drums on my 1976 Trans Am. I have most everything I need for the rear brake swap so far; 2 complete left side assembly's, stainless brake hoses (conversion with metric/sae), and large enough rear wheels. From what I have read on this site, amung others, I am going to go with a GM Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve, 10 lb residual brake valve for the rear brakes, spacers to center the abutment, and shorten and reflare the brake lines in the back. Am I missing anything for the actual brake swap? I am going to hold off on doing the ebrake since I am on a budget.















Thanks,
Ryan

[Apogee]

You don't want to use a 10psi residual pressure valve on any disc circuit, only drums, so you can cross that off the list. You didn't specify a part number for the Wilwood combination valve, however the only "GM" unit they offer is their 260-11322 which is specifically for disc/drum applications, not disc/disc. I would suggest running an 11-turn infinitely adjustable proportioning valve and call it a day, otherwise you could run an OE GM type disc/disc unit as sold by Inline Tube, The Right Stuff Detailing, Summit, etc.

Tobin
KORE3

[ryeguy2006a]

Tobin, thanks for the response. I was referring to this combination valve, click here. If it isn't this one, I thought there was a valve out there that would bolt in and replace the factory valve. Also, will I need to get some brackets for my ebrake setup when It comes time for that? Or should I just make them now?

[Apogee]

The valve you linked to is a Wilwood #260-11179 distribution block with built-in adjustable proportioning valve. While a nice piece, the ports are not in the same configuration as the OE type units, nor are they the same size. All of the inlet and outlet ports are 3/8-24 SAE female inverted flare.

The only thing you'll need in the rear are shims to push out the backing plate, both for caliper alignment and parking brake engagement. Aside from routing cables, I'm not aware of anything else that you'll need in the rear, with or without a functioning parking brake.

Tobin
KORE3

[ryeguy2006a]

Now should I currently be running a residual valve for my rear drums? Ss there one built into the stock proportioning valve or the MC itself? I looked into this valve at speedway motors and it says that the residual valve for the drums isn't built in.

[Apogee]

Yes, you probably should be running a 10 psi residual pressure valve in your rear drum brake circuit now, however you won't need one if/when you convert to discs. Residual pressure valves are typically either built into the outlet ports of the MC or as stand alone inline units some some OE and aftermarket applications. Since you're running a C3 Corvette disc/disc master cylinder, it won't have any RPV, so it is theoreticaly more susceptible to "burping" air past the cup seals when the retraction springs collapse the wheel cylinders.

Tobin
KORE3