making my own brake lines

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Thinking about making my own brake lines. have a cpl of questions before I get intoo deep.

1. I want to use stainless. Is annealed the way to go and od/id/wall thickness sholuld I use ???



2. I'll need a good flare tool. Any thoughts on this tool ???


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/KTI-70081/

[neki67]

Go for Cunifer lines. It will be (far) less of a challenge, cost less, look good and last as long as the stainless.

On top of all that, you won't need a fancy flare tool.

[parsonsj]

I prefer to use AN (37 degree single) flares with SS. Use 3/16 x .035 fully annealed SS line, and a good bender and flare tool. I used Ridgid benders, and an Imperial manual flare tool.

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

I prefer to use AN (37 degree single) flares with SS. Use 3/16 x .035 fully annealed SS line, and a good bender and flare tool. I used Ridgid benders, and an Imperial manual flare tool.

Any preference to sleeves and nuts ???

[parsonsj]

Any preference to sleeves and nuts?

No. I've used Russell, Earl's, and Summit. Mix and match with no issue. Some say you have to use steel fittings, but I don't. I think aluminum works well -- the softer material seals better with stainless better.

[claytonisbob]

AN single flares for brake lines? When the flex lines, master cylinder, and (I'm assuming) most prop valves having 45 degree seats, why do AN? Seems like it would make things more complicated, and are AN flares rated for 1000 lbs of pressure? I know it's easier to flare stainless at 37 degrees, but I figured that was mainly for fuel line.

[dontlifttoshift]

I do it all the time. I honestly don't know what the flare seat is rated to but I have never had a problem with 37* AN flares on brake lines. I also use aluminum fittings although you shouldn't.....supposedly. Adapting to AN stuff isn't that hard. Most adjustable prop valves are 1/8" npt and most braided lines are AN already so that only leaves the master cylinder to fight with.

These guys have every adapter you could ever need inluding cool banjo setups for the master cylinder http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/

I get all of my AN stuff from http://www.phenixindustries.com/index.html

Here is the flare tool I use http://www.brakequip.com/tools_ft.html I have had every kind of flare tool you can imagine and this is the best hands down. The imperial mentioned above (with the rollers) works well and was my go to until I got the Brakequip one.

Donny

[parsonsj]

What Donny said.

Are AN flares rated to 1000 psi? You bet: http://www.sealexcelfittings.com/37_flare.html

Oh, and a big second on Pure Choice: http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Go for Cunifer lines. It will be (far) less of a challenge, cost less, look good and last as long as the stainless.

On top of all that, you won't need a fancy flare tool.

I found one place to get this stuff. Fedhill brake lines. Any other places to get this stuff??

Found this site too. Pretty cheap fora 25' coil.
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...0-p-SRR02.html

And can you do a 37* AN flare with this stuff ?? I ask about AN flares because I was originally going to plumb the entire car with Aeroquip teflon braded lines and have a ton of AN fittings. But am thinking about not doing the whole car in braided and would like to use the fittings I already have. I know stainless uses 37* flares. Just wasn't sure if you could use it with the Cunifer tubing.

[CFster]

Go for Cunifer lines. It will be (far) less of a challenge, cost less, look good and last as long as the stainless.

On top of all that, you won't need a fancy flare tool.

+1. Cunifer all the way on my car.

[MrQuick]

What Donny said.

Are AN flares rated to 1000 psi? You bet: http://www.sealexcelfittings.com/37_flare.html

Oh, and a big second on Pure Choice: http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/

John,
Vince here, Where do you buy your stainless?

Thanks....I like the Pure Choice stuff too.

[dontlifttoshift]

I get it from McMaster Carr. They are not the cheapest or the most expensive but if I call in the morning I get it that afternoon. Pure Choice carries tubing as well.

But am thinking about not doing the whole car in braided and would like to use the fittings I already have.

DO NOT run the entire brake system in braided stainless hose. It is strong stuff but still flexes and you will end up with a mushy pedal. I try to keep total flexible hose in a car under 3 feet whenever I can. 3 feet even sounds like a lot but when you drop a hose at each wheel it adds up quick. The less hose, the better.

I don't see any reason you couldn't single flare, 37*, the cunifer tubing. It's seamless so it should work.

[parsonsj]

I get my stainless and aluminum tube from Dillsburg Aeroworks, but apparently Charley Vogelsong is calling it quits. I don't understand it.. the man is only 93.

When I lived in Maryland, I would drive up there and bring home lengths (20-22'), but lately I've been getting them cut into 8' sections for shipping by UPS. I guess I'll move on to McMaster -- but they only offer 6' lengths.

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

Thanks for all the feedback so far. Excellent info.

Now one last question. I have the large single pistion calipers in the back as well as the front. They are actually late 70's Caddy calipers with parking brakes built in. Should I run 1/4 tubing to the back or will the 3/16 be sufficient?

[parsonsj]

I would run 3/16 everywhere. 1/4" will lower your pressure in the back, though it's debatable if you'll be able to measure the difference.

[neki67]

And can you do a 37* AN flare with this stuff ??

I don't have any experience with doing 37* AN flares on Cunifer but I assume it's no problem. It's far easier to shape and far more plyable than stainless. I know Tobin (Kore3, aka Apogee on here) also likes cunifer. Might be worth it if you gave him a call/PM.

[Twentyover]

I would run 3/16 everywhere. 1/4" will lower your pressure in the back, though it's debatable if you'll be able to measure the difference.

No. No pressure change.

No reason to go bigger than -3. You're using fluid to move pressure, not to move fluid (although there is minor fluid movement.)

[BBPanel]

I found one place to get this stuff. Fedhill brake lines. Any other places to get this stuff??
Found this site too. Pretty cheap fora 25' coil.
http://www.ntxtools.com/network-tool...0-p-SRR02.html

NAPA carries the NiCopp (cunnifer) but you have to special order it - here is what their cust support sent me and I ordered the 3/16" roll - came in the next day:

3/16 x 25 coil – SKU # 641-3347
1/4 x 25 coil - SKU # 641-3349
5/16 x 25 coil – SKU # 641-3351
3/8 x 25 coil – SKU # 641- 3353

[MuscleRodz]

AN is plenty rated for pressure, you could even run it in aluminum if it was not under the car. Aircraft hydraulic systems are in excess of 2000 psi in certain systems. the issue is with vibration and cracking the flare. But I do not see that as a problem with stainless.

[Greg from Aus]

I do it all the time. I honestly don't know what the flare seat is rated to but I have never had a problem with 37* AN flares on brake lines. I also use aluminum fittings although you shouldn't.....supposedly. Adapting to AN stuff isn't that hard. Most adjustable prop valves are 1/8" npt and most braided lines are AN already so that only leaves the master cylinder to fight with.

These guys have every adapter you could ever need inluding cool banjo setups for the master cylinder http://www.purechoicemotorsports.com/

I get all of my AN stuff from http://www.phenixindustries.com/index.html

Here is the flare tool I use http://www.brakequip.com/tools_ft.html I have had every kind of flare tool you can imagine and this is the best hands down. The imperial mentioned above (with the rollers) works well and was my go to until I got the Brakequip one.

Donny

Have you compared this with the Mastercool Hydraulic? I am looking for a flaring tool as well. also would you have a rough idea on cost.

Greg