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    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      68
      Country Flag: United States

      Removing lead in sail panel

      I am removing the RR quarter in my 69 for a new one. I have the quarter almost all off except the little bit where the sail panel connects to the roof. I have drilled out the spots. The back half of the seams had bondo in it. I used a sanding disc to remove it. The front few inches has what looks like lead in it. I am cautious at wanting to remove it. What is a safe way to remove this stuff? Heat?

      1969 Camaro, GM PP HO 454, Procharger D1-SC, 12 bolt rear end, 3:73 gears, 700R4, Borla XS mufflers, X pipe. Ride Tech Air Suspension and Retrotek Speed EFI. AR S200 wheels and Nitto 555. Wilwood 6 piston with Hydratech boost.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Vacaville CA
      Posts
      57
      Country Flag: United States
      you have to melt it off. I've been using a piece of wood to push the melting globs. be sure to have good ventalation and a resperator for the lead fumes.

      along with spot welds and lead, the sail is brazed to the roof in a few spots.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Vancouver, Wa
      Posts
      46
      Can you weld the seam after the lead is removed, or do you have to re-lead it?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Nov 2008
      Location
      Atlanta, GA
      Posts
      431
      Country Flag: United States
      I used evercoat metal-2-metal, worked great.
      Dave

      1972 Nova
      1967 RS/SS Camaro - current project

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Feb 2011
      Location
      Chico, CA
      Posts
      203
      x2 on heat. I used a propane torch to melt it out on my 67. Just make sure you don't do it in sandals.
      Jeff

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      3,031
      Country Flag: United States
      Yep melt it off with a torch. Use a wire brush and some shop rags and it wipes right off with a little heat. I burn off thick bondo in the same way. Set it on fire, blow it out, and it comes right off.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      68
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the info. Almost turning the corner into construction vs. destruction.
      1969 Camaro, GM PP HO 454, Procharger D1-SC, 12 bolt rear end, 3:73 gears, 700R4, Borla XS mufflers, X pipe. Ride Tech Air Suspension and Retrotek Speed EFI. AR S200 wheels and Nitto 555. Wilwood 6 piston with Hydratech boost.


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Feb 2012
      Location
      Gearheadville USA
      Posts
      7
      Country Flag: United States
      After replacing the panel I like to weld a patch over the entire area. Filler seems to crack over time with body flex.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      milton, florida
      Posts
      487
      Country Flag: United States
      x2 !
      Quote Originally Posted by 6T1_Step View Post
      After replacing the panel I like to weld a patch over the entire area. Filler seems to crack over time with body flex.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      May 2002
      Location
      Northern California
      Posts
      10,716
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by milehigh69 View Post
      Thanks for the info. Almost turning the corner into construction vs. destruction.
      also make sure you wear throw away cover alls and boot covers. The lead dust gets everywhere and you don't want to bring it home with you. Throw away what you are wearing as the lead stays in the washing machine.
      MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Oct 2011
      Posts
      467
      I welded all the factory rear seams shut on my 68 coupe after removing the lead. Blend the metal after welding, then a thin layer of green metal glaze. Should never crack again!!




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