Pad knock back.....

[JRouche]

Great thread. Im learning more about pad knockback than I have before.

I dont personally have an issue because I cant afford to race :( And I have a 9in on the back. But I think the better C clip idea is worth looking into.

You said you went with with a non power unit because the 383 wasnt pulling enough vacuum. Kinda curious what booster you had? Only cause my engine, a mild 350 is also a lil stingy with the vacuum. It will SLOOOOLY rise from around 2" of vacuum (full throttle run) to 9-12" after throttle lift (according to the EFI display) and it never seems to run out of vacuum in the canister. One throttle lift is enough to charge it for the next couple of braking sessions.



I have a 1985 cadillac selville booster, master cylinder and pedal. Oh and wilwood calipers up front and cadillac calipers on the back.

The booster is NOT cadillac BIG!. I have several inches of space between it and the small block. It is a perfect match for the wilwood brakes up front, stops like crazy. I have yet to dial in the rear brakes for the optimum use. I have a variable proportioning valve inline. Some day Ill take the car on a deserted street and tune that part up. Ill adjust it so the rear brakes lock and back off a bit on the knob and call it a day.

The rear brakes? Are they also parking brakes? I imagine not. Just had to ask cause some of the rear calipers Ive seen that were also parking brakes did have some issues with the parking mechanism causing some issues because they were not adjusting and holding the piston in, causing some soft brakes. NOT your case, you have solid brakes until you hit the esses right? Knockback. I agree. Dont discount what is going on up front. But you said you know its the rear knockback? Why? How can you point it to the rear and not the front?

Gonna learn something now I think you are gonna work this brake deal out. Funny about cars, for me anyway. Once one issue is worked out one other steps up, ERRRR!! JR

[rrelco]

Great thread. Im learning more about pad knockback than I have before.

I dont personally have an issue because I cant afford to race :( And I have a 9in on the back. But I think the better C clip idea is worth looking into.

You said you went with with a non power unit because the 383 wasnt pulling enough vacuum. Kinda curious what booster you had? Only cause my engine, a mild 350 is also a lil stingy with the vacuum. It will SLOOOOLY rise from around 2" of vacuum (full throttle run) to 9-12" after throttle lift (according to the EFI display) and it never seems to run out of vacuum in the canister. One throttle lift is enough to charge it for the next couple of braking sessions.

I have a 1985 cadillac selville booster, master cylinder and pedal. Oh and wilwood calipers up front and cadillac calipers on the back.

The booster is NOT cadillac BIG!. I have several inches of space between it and the small block. It is a perfect match for the wilwood brakes up front, stops like crazy. I have yet to dial in the rear brakes for the optimum use. I have a variable proportioning valve inline. Some day Ill take the car on a deserted street and tune that part up. Ill adjust it so the rear brakes lock and back off a bit on the knob and call it a day.

The rear brakes? Are they also parking brakes? I imagine not. Just had to ask cause some of the rear calipers Ive seen that were also parking brakes did have some issues with the parking mechanism causing some issues because they were not adjusting and holding the piston in, causing some soft brakes. NOT your case, you have solid brakes until you hit the esses right? Knockback. I agree. Dont discount what is going on up front. But you said you know its the rear knockback? Why? How can you point it to the rear and not the front?

Gonna learn something now I think you are gonna work this brake deal out. Funny about cars, for me anyway. Once one issue is worked out one other steps up, ERRRR!! JR

I had the CPP Dual Diaphram I think it was a 8" the motor had ideling issues that I had to figure out so when I hit the brakes it wanted to die. so I did a bunch of stuff to figure it out the first thing was to remove the vacuum canister on the distributer,after doing that the motor ran way better 383 in my case dont like any advanced.

Wilwood uses the hat type parking brake the piston is not used as a parking brake small shoes. CPP uses the Cadillac caliper and if you dont set it correctly within .25 inch you will burn up your rotors and you must always set the parking brake everytime you park so that it will adjust.

I am sure its the rear I have ATS spindels up front and there is no play, but the rear has alot, I need to get meassurment.

GM engineers know whats going on they use full floating calipers probable due to that same issue.

I did make a call the Coast Drivline and he has no way of making new c-clips and has never done that in his 30 years, he also said there is a reason for the axels to have end play you have to remove the pin then push the axels in to remove the c-clip.

either I learn how to tap when I come up to a corner or buy Wilwoods floating caliper.

its only MONEY....

[SLO_Z28]

I did make a call the Coast Drivline and he has no way of making new c-clips and has never done that in his 30 years, he also said there is a reason for the axels to have end play you have to remove the pin then push the axels in to remove the c-clip.

Sounds like you got someone over there that has no idea what they're doing. Im getting some metal work done at the shop behind there (really cool place if you have never seen it), so Ill roll by there and talk to them in person.