Ridetech G Body Rear Coilover Install

[xxxturbo6]

Did you have to use special front lower control arms to install your coil over setup?

I would think they offer several different shock mounts to fit most lower A-arms?

.

[marolf101x]

When using our coil over you must use our control arm. We drop the lower mount which provides the proper shock stroke when u

[xxxturbo6]

When using our coil over you must use our control arm. We drop the lower mount which provides the proper shock stroke when u

Britt,

So what your saying is that people with stock upper & lower front A-arms have to buy your lower a-arms in order for your ridetech coil-overs to work? I'm confused as I see Many people running your coilovers on stock set ups and even other aftermarket set up's. I can see your point with "Lowered" vehicles but what about a "Stock ride height" vehicle? wouldn't the shock stroke be good then?

[marolf101x]

There are two main reasons to NOT run a coil over on an OE lower control arm:
#1: Trunnions
You have to use a trunnion (t-bar, tie-bar, whatever you'd like to call it). The OE lower control arm will not live when all the force is applied to such a small area.
This is one of the reasons we designed our lower control arm to hold the coil over in double shear.
You are correct, there are aftermarket arms that use a trunnion. They typically use a thicker material in the mounting area.

#2: Stroke
We design all our parts to lower the vehicle. Not to be a jerk, but I don't see the value in coil overs if you cannot go lower than stock height. That being said, when lowering the car you typically do not have enough space between the OE upper mount and the OE lower control arm for proper shock stroke. You want 5 inches of wheel travel. So if shock (coil over) is at a 2:1 motion ratio the shock must have 2.5 inches of stroke minimum. Couple the short stroke with a monotube damper and you don't have enough room.

[xxxturbo6]

Britt shoot me a PM in regards to this so we don't take up Doug's thread..

Makes Sense! I see people making "Plates" to go into the old spring pocket that give the lower shock mount more material to handle the load of the shock, is this something that can be done to help with the shock force?

[SicMonte]

There are two main reasons to NOT run a coil over on an OE lower control arm:
#1: Trunnions
You have to use a trunnion (t-bar, tie-bar, whatever you'd like to call it). The OE lower control arm will not live when all the force is applied to such a small area.
This is one of the reasons we designed our lower control arm to hold the coil over in double shear.
You are correct, there are aftermarket arms that use a trunnion. They typically use a thicker material in the mounting area.

#2: Stroke
We design all our parts to lower the vehicle. Not to be a jerk, but I don't see the value in coil overs if you cannot go lower than stock height. That being said, when lowering the car you typically do not have enough space between the OE upper mount and the OE lower control arm for proper shock stroke. You want 5 inches of wheel travel. So if shock (coil over) is at a 2:1 motion ratio the shock must have 2.5 inches of stroke minimum. Couple the short stroke with a monotube damper and you don't have enough room.

I am using SPC front lower arms with the ridetech coilovers. I had to use the t bars/trunnions but the lower arms are beefy enough to take the abuse. I can easily see where a stock arm would fail.

[MonzaRacer]

Just a note to the guy commenting on the mounts for the rear end. After having issues with control arm mounts I completely see why ridetech builds that bracket as it does. Its for multiple reasons but you also have to remember going to coilover setup all your weight is NOW centered on t least 20+ yr old metal and its was NEVER designed for use as a coil over bracket. You can complain about design but I guarantee you its all for an actual purpose or it would NOT be in the kit. I CAN see that aftermarket rearends probably have heavier brackets so some minor reinforcing /boxing might be all you need to make it much safer. But then some people never see carnage caused by their mistakes. Just a few points to put out there. I have used ridetech parts before and would trust their reasons over looks any day but that is the hot rodder/engineering I use coming out.

[SicMonte]

Ttt

[SicMonte]

From my experience with the front coilovers I would STRONGLY suggest that you get a coilover specific lower arm. My arms bent on the bottom mounting plate so a coilover specific mount would fix that issue.

[malibu9in]

Hate to wake a old thread. But I'm running a rear Baer brake system on my Malibu. Wanna change to shockwaves. Looks like the ebrake cable will run right into the shockwave. Anyone have this issue??? Thanks

[SicMonte]

To the top!!

[HotRod47]

I know this is an old thread, but this really helped me with some questions I am having on my QA1 installed coil overs on my 66 A Body Chevelle.

[SicMonte]

I know this is an old thread, but this really helped me with some questions I am having on my QA1 installed coil overs on my 66 A Body Chevelle.

and this is why I do this!! Glad this helped you!!

[CanMove]

and this is why I do this!! Glad this helped you!!

I have a 87 Grand National.
i just recieved all my Ride Tech Level II coil over kit. Front sway bar.
i went with Detroit Speed rear upper and lower control arms and rear sway bar.
Also their front brace kit.

Right now i have some 20X8.5 -19 offset Foose Nitrious rims on the car.
do you think i will have major rub issues when i install all of this?
my front tires rub when i hit big bumps now. I have a 1/2 spacer under front springs now too in order to relieve some of the runbing.
Im going to order new rims over the winter. Better pro touring rims.
I just want to be sure i can drive home from shop after coil over kit is all installed.
Thanks Rich

[SicMonte]

I have a 87 Grand National.
i just recieved all my Ride Tech Level II coil over kit. Front sway bar.
i went with Detroit Speed rear upper and lower control arms and rear sway bar.
Also their front brace kit.

Right now i have some 20X8.5 -19 offset Foose Nitrious rims on the car.
do you think i will have major rub issues when i install all of this?
my front tires rub when i hit big bumps now. I have a 1/2 spacer under front springs now too in order to relieve some of the runbing.
Im going to order new rims over the winter. Better pro touring rims.
I just want to be sure i can drive home from shop after coil over kit is all installed.
Thanks Rich

The coilover kit is designed to lower the car about 2" if I remember correctly but can be adjusted lower. I am running Fronts 18x9 4.75"bs, 275/35/18 tire
Rears 18x10.5 6"bs, 295/35/18 tire. The front will rub on an off camber turn but that's about it.

[Kiko]

The coilover kit is designed to lower the car about 2" if I remember correctly but can be adjusted lower. I am running Fronts 18x9 4.75"bs, 275/35/18 tire
Rears 18x10.5 6"bs, 295/35/18 tire. The front will rub on an off camber turn but that's about it.

Did you roll your fenders to fit those wheels/tires (front? rear?)? Why I'm asking it's because I'm running 18x9, 275/35/18 in the back of my 83 Grand Prix and the tire is about 1/4" from the frame.

[the450r]

This post helped me too. I installed ridetech rear coil overs on my 1968 GTO. The mounts I received were like your gbody mount not the t bar. Which is a good thing. I wouldn't have any preload if the shock was don't further down at this ride height

The lower mount caused some head scratching. I have a quick performance 9inch and ordered with Moser style axle mounts which are very similar but not quite. Quick performance said they are developing a mount with ridetech and advised to just make spacers to make the one I have work.

I will have to redo my tailpipes to clear them but that's probably a good thing cuz they were prebent and not the best anyway.

Also wanted to point out the SPC arms have a plate for coilovers to bolt to that spreads the load out. I have those on the front and plan to do front coilovers in the future.