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Thread: 2x3 frame thickness question
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01-16-2012 #1
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2x3 frame thickness question
Im planning on building a complete frame chassis car and was wondering what thickness 2x3 tubing would be best to use?
Thanks
-Drew
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01-16-2012 #2
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.120 wall is all we use.
MrQuick ΜΟΛ'ΩΝ ΛΑΒ'Ε
01-16-2012 #3
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Drew,
Not trying to be a jerk, but if you are asking what thickness to use. maybe you should build your knowledge base on chassis design before you go and start to build one. It takes a lot of planning and engineering skills, not just the abilty to cut and weld.My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ing&highlight=
The mustang build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...el)&highlight=
01-16-2012 #4
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Agreed, but not all cars need 2x3x.120 and some cars should use some 2x4x.120.
Originally Posted by MrQuick
The chassis that I am designing right now will be double tube with 1.75 DOM with .120 wall.My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ing&highlight=
The mustang build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...el)&highlight=
01-16-2012 #5
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I've got a decent amount of 2x3x.120 in my "floor." I used it for outriggers from my 2x2x.120 subframe connectors, and for a pie-cut-welded over-the-tunnel brace that I made (connects the subframe connectors over the tranny hump). It's worked pretty nicely so far, and I've been working the torsional resistance of the car pretty good lately...
01-16-2012 #6
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I know you arent trying to be rude but it did come across that way. I know more than enough on the structural design and engineering behind building a complete chassis. I just wasnt sure if many people were building their frames out of .085 on complete caged frames to save weight but bracing it right.
01-17-2012 #7
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On a drag only car .085 Chromemoly is acceptable, but for a street car that will see rough roads, potholes and train tracks you want to go with a heavier wall to carry that load. Saving weight is secondary in my opinion in order to make a safe and worry free road car.
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01-17-2012 #8
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Chromoly has a shorter life than a mild steel frame. Chromoly has fatigue issues. A race car is fine to use CM and save some weight but a street car that will see lots of miles should be MS.
My build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...ing&highlight=
The mustang build thread: https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...el)&highlight=
01-17-2012 #9
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When you're shopping some places may call it out as 11 ga tubing.
1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454
01-17-2012 #10
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Thanks for the help I had a feeling I knew the answer to my own question, but I just wanted others opinions to confirm my suspicions.
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