Project: BLACK METAL - '67 Camaro

[rickpaw]

I wonder what the check valve's purpose is for. Here's a thought. The way you have the check valve teed (as per TI's instruction), I'm not sure it will do any good to prevent fuel leaks, as the vent line by passes the valve.



I plumped my tank over the weekend, and decided to skip the check valve all together and ran my vent line straight to a dual vent set up made by Brian Finch.

[67rally]

I wonder what the check valve's purpose is for. Here's a thought. The way you have the check valve teed (as per TI's instruction), I'm not sure it will do any good to prevent fuel leaks, as the vent line by passes the valve.

I plumped my tank over the weekend, and decided to skip the check valve all together and ran my vent line straight to a dual vent set up made by Brian Finch.

Sure it will. The check valve is open when it's in the upright position, allowing vapors to escape. It closes when the car is sitting on it's roof. When the tank is upside down, fuel will leak down the vent line near the fuel pump as well as the vent line on the filler neck, but will not get past the check valve. At first I thought you might be onto something since it can flow down the other vent line, but it would just end up back in the tank, so this setup should work fine.

[67rally]

Well, can't really blame anyone other than myself here. Once again I'm waiting on some parts, but it's my own fault for not ordering in the right order. I have my new engine wiring harness coming from PSI conversions, a new 6 cylinder gas pedal so I can convert to cable rather than mechanical linkage, a new alternator relocation bracket, a new oil fill tube, and some other loose end. Well, I did order a bunch of gaskets, seals and sensors that USPS lost for 4 days, and once they arrived, the bag of 8 intake gaskets was opened and taped back up with one gasket missing...but I probably won't install the intake until I drop the engine into the bay anyways.

So in the meantime, lots of pics without much excitement.

New GM GTO slave cylinder (bottom) and old (top):


I'm adding a speed bleeder from Tick Performance so I can bleed the clutch from the engine bay. Old bleeder comes off:


Here's the new Tick bleeder:


The copper washer is shipped on the wrong side of the fitting so it does't get lost, just make sure to move the copper washer so it sits between the fitting and the slave cylider:


Attaches with two 10mm bolts torqued to 71 inch pounds:

[XLexusTech]

Well, can't really blame anyone other than myself here. Once again I'm waiting on some parts, but it's my own fault for not ordering in the right order. I have my new engine wiring harness coming from PSI conversions, /Slavecylinder006x_zps37580847.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Hey just read through the thread.. Let me know how you like PSI conversions... I am very interested in checking them out... did they give you an idea how long it would take to get the harness?

[67rally]

Hey just read through the thread.. Let me know how you like PSI conversions... I am very interested in checking them out... did they give you an idea how long it would take to get the harness?

I already got it. It took about 4 days to get it from the time I ordered. Jon's customer service is exceptional. He answers his phone and responds to emails quickly.

The harness looks very good as well. I would definitely recommend PSI Conversions.

[Ron.in.SoCal]

I already got it. It took about 4 days to get it from the time I ordered. Jon's customer service is exceptional. He answers his phone and responds to emails quickly.

The harness looks very good as well. I would definitely recommend PSI Conversions.

I agree completely.

[XLexusTech]

I agree completely.

Awesome... will order Monday..

[The Am1nal]

Hey just read through the thread.. Let me know how you like PSI conversions... I am very interested in checking them out... did they give you an idea how long it would take to get the harness?

I have a PSI harness for my ls3/t56 in my 69 camaro. haven't fired up the car yet but so far I like the harness a lot and Jon isn't done with you soon as he gets his money, he will help until you get things lined out.

[67rally]

Here's an issue that you don't have on the sbc's. The LS engines have a steam tube vent (crossover tube) that connects the water passages on the both heads to a small line and ties back into the cooling system. It's recommended that you tie into the highest point in the system to prevent air pockets in the system.

Here's the tube in question:


Here it is removed and all cruddy (and backwards):


Before I knew what I was doing with it, I cleaned it up and painted it:


Then I cut the tube off the top of the driver's side and drilled a 11/32" hole:


Then I drilled an 11/32 hole through the top of my brand new water pump:


Tapped both holes with a 1/4" NPT tap:


Installed a 90 degree 1/4"NPT to -4AN fitting and sealed it with ARP thread sealer, and attached a 6" long -4AN stainless steel PTFE hose to it (I'm still waiting on the seals that go between the vent tubes and the heads, along with the correct bolts, so this is just for mockup):

[67rally]

I also figured out that the harmonic balancer install tool that you can rent from Autozone or Pep Boys isn't deep enough to reach the LS crank, so I had to buy a makeshift one from eBay. That should be here tomorrow.

And I'm in the process of cleaning up the coil packs and painting the coil pack mounting plates to hide them a little. Eventually I'll relocate the coil packs, but at this point I need to spend money wisely so I can get back up and running.

If the weather cooperates I'm going to install the new clutch, mate the engine to the the transmission and try dropping it in this weekend. I just ordered an adjustable T56 crossmember from BMR Suspension. Hopefully it fits. If not, I know the ATS one will, but it's twice the price, so we'll see.