Project: BLACK METAL - '67 Camaro

[67rally]

Got the axle centered and at ride height, pinion angle set at 3 degrees up. The engine/trans is at 3 degrees down and ridetech recommends equal but opposite angles. No axle wrap with a 4 link so no need to drop the pinion angle down from there.

I cut a couple pieces of bar stock and drilled holes at 14.5" on center to replicate the shocks. This makes it easy to adjust the pinion angle without shifting the axle up or down:


ridetech supplies this little jig (right) to replicate the upper arm (left) so you don't fry the bushings while welding:


Upper arm mounting tabs mocked up. They didn't fit the contour of the axle (notice the tab furthest away, the tail hangs out quite a bit). I've read that this is a common problem:


A few minutes with a grinder and they fit a lot better:


Tabs tack welded in place:


I tacked the drivers side in perfectly, then tacked the passenger side in. The instructions say to re-measure pinion angle, which I did and realized that the jack I was using to hold the pinion had dropped out. I ended up tacking in the drivers side at 3 degrees up and the passenger side at 3 degrees down. I had to grind out the welds and start over.

Tabs welded up, and repainted. I added a brake line holder while I was at it.





I tried refitting my Hotchkis sway bar, but it's not going to work:



The sway bar end links want to occupy the same space are the RideTech upper arms:


- - - Updated - - -

I ended up replacing my fuel sender while the tank was out. I was tired of the gas needle bouncing around with the old float design.

Classic Instruments sells an enclosed, tube style sender that eliminates the needle bounce. Part number SN38T6 (6") for the regular Tanks Inc tank, or SN38T7 (7") for the deeper notched tank.

Of course the holes were slightly off, so I had to bore them out on the new sender with the next size drill bit.



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