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    1. #11
      Join Date
      Jan 2011
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      1,180
      Country Flag: United States
      Time for an update. Everything has taken twice as long as planned with this round of upgrades. Nothing just bolts on anymore, I've come to the conclusion that anything I order will need to be mocked up, modified, test fit, modified, refit, modified, test again, BFH, it fits!

      I replaced my PS pump with a new one designed for a hydroboost application, it just has an extra return port on it (2 instead of 1). In the process, I noticed this "little" crack in one of my PS brackets. This is probably from trying to overtighten the pressure fitting with the PS pump still mounted. I just v-grooved the crack and welded it back up. No after pics. Not very exciting.



      A couple of pics of the new Hydratech Hydroboost unit with the "Street" finish (mid grade):






      Old Master cylinder removed, and Hurst roll control pushed off to the side:


      The first issue was that the aluminum base to the Hydratech unit hit the McLeod Clutch MC bracket. They share the same mounting bolts, but the McLeod bracket comes out at an angle just below the bolt holes. You can see the mark below the bottom right bolt where it hit.


      Here's what I planned to grind, and what I finally ground off. More than I needed, but there's still plenty of material left, the base to this unit is pretty beefy. I also bored out the mounting holes a bit. I don't know if their holes were off, or my mounting studs were off, but it was not an easy fit:






      Finally got it fitted flush and bolted to the firewall:


      Not a very good pic, but this is the new clevis and rod that goes to the brake pedal. There are two mounting holes in the pedal, the bottom one is for power brakes, and the top one is for manual brakes. The instructions say to use the top one, but also state that the pedal rod needs to be as straight as possible. Off by more than 3 degrees will cause premature wear. The bottom hole was too low, and the top hole wouldn't even bolt up, and the angles were terrible. I ended up drilling a new 3/8" hole about half way between the old ones to get the rod dead straight:


      I had a couple of -6AN high pressure hoses made up at a local Hydraulic hose shop. I didn't want to play around with making my own, and didn't want the braided stainless look. The white stripe will be mounted facing down where possible. These hoses have an operating pressure of 3400psi, burst pressure of 13600 psi and operating temp of 260 degrees.






      Another shot of the Hydratech unit with one of the hoses attached. Wrapped to keep the oil off it during install:


      I had to relocate my roll control. It was mounted to the top right bolt hole, it wouldn't back in that location, so I moved it down to the bottom stud, then moved it over and out about an inch:


      Here's my old roll control bracket in aluminum, and a new one that I fabricated out of heavy sheet metal and washer. The bolt holes on the Hydratech unit are recessed, so I needed to create something that would recess down the hole and could still get a long nut into:




      And this is where I left off today. New Wilwood Master (1 1/8" bore) mocked up with the new prop valve. I still have to bench bleed the MC, and run a few new brake lines.







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