Project: BLACK METAL - '67 Camaro

[67rally]

Unfortunately the way this tube type sending unit advertised is a bit misleading. It may not be as worse as the floating type but that thing still bounces

Yup. They don't actually claim that it will solve the problem. In fact, there's not really even a description on their website http://shop.classicinstruments.com/sn38t. It's just what other people have said in forums that lead me to believe that this would solve the problem.

The closest thing I could find from Classic Instruments were a couple of press releases that said:

HotRodHotline:
"Classic Instruments is pleased to announce the release of a tube style fuel sending unit. The tube style fuel sending unit is the latest innovative product to give your hot rod or classic car “The Finishing Touch”! Tube style fuel sending units are ideal for applications where conventional swing arm senders will not fit due to clearance issues. Tube style sending units are also less susceptible to cause erratic readings due to fuel slosh in a tank where baffles are not present."



Tanks Inc:
"Most aftermarket fuel senders use a rotating float arm and resistance cards to measure the amount of fuel in a tank which can lead to erratic pointer movements. This revolutionary design comes with many benefits! This is ideal for applications where a conventional swing arm will not fit due to clearance issues. The tubular design acts as a dampener to prevent the gauge pointer from moving due to fuel slosh."

I don't know if it's any better than the swing arm one that I removed, but it's not worse, so it's staying put.

[jlcustomz]

Wonder if this new holley hydramat stuff could be utilized around the bottom of the tank in that area as sort of a baffle?
Just a quick thought , but not a researched one.
Sounds like Something to baffle the fuel may be the only solution.
If going to the extreme of cutting open a tank to install some sort of baffle. The way I've heard of to remove residual gas fumes from an empty tank is to run a hose from an exhaust pipe of a running engine into the tank for about a half hour for the hot air to get it out.

[67rally]

Wonder if this new holley hydramat stuff could be utilized around the bottom of the tank in that area as sort of a baffle?
Just a quick thought , but not a researched one.
Sounds like Something to baffle the fuel may be the only solution.
If going to the extreme of cutting open a tank to install some sort of baffle. The way I've heard of to remove residual gas fumes from an empty tank is to run a hose from an exhaust pipe of a running engine into the tank for about a half hour for the hot air to get it out.

The Tanks Inc. tank is already baffled to prevent fuel starvation, but apparently that's not enough. It's not a big deal though, as I'm rarely checking my fuel level while taking hard corners!

[67rally]

I gave up on the exhaust going over the axle, it was going to be too close to the fuel tank and rear tires, and I'd have to redo it all after I minitub it in the fall. I'm going to run the turn downs this season and annoy my neighbors.

Got the Hotchkis rear sway bar buttoned up. I used a couple 1" steel spacers to move the down links inwards and added some new mounting tabs to the ridetech bracket. I don't think anyone else has tried this yet. I don't even know if I'll need the sway bar, but if I do, I didn't want to shell out $1000 for matching RideRech muscle bars.

These are the tabs I had fabricated for me. Originally they were going to mount the rear sway bar link 3.75" down from the ridetech bar, and be pushed forward more towards the rear seat area. However, I would never have been able to remove the RideTech upper bars because the new tabs would have been in the way, so I had to rotate the tabs a little towards the rear axle, which in turn messed up my sway bar angles. In the end, I ended up drilling a second set of holes about an inch or so higher in the new tabs, and got my angles back:


Rear sway bar with the new spacers, before install:


Spacer before being painted black:


Sway bar, spacers, endlinks, mounting tabs, etc:




RideTech upper bar on left, sway bar down link on right with a good shot of the 1" spacer:




RideTech upper bar on left and sway bar link on right:




Back down on the ground: