Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
    Results 1 to 20 of 26

    Thread: Brake lines

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      549
      Country Flag: United States

      Brake lines

      I am currently upgrading to c5 brakes on my 67 camaro. I am running a 1" bore wilwood master cylinder. I have wilwood proportioning valve. I am wanting to redo my brake lines, so my question is what is the best size to run in front and rear and alsofrom front to rear. Does it need to be bigger? Where is the best source to get aluminum or steel lines. Is everyone running straight lengths from front to back or using rolls? I would like to have one piece from front to rear lines. Any help is greater appreciated. Thanks

      David Butler
      "If you're not first, you're last"
      67 Camaro Twin Turbo SBC (changing from Blow-thru to Holley HP EFI)


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Beach Park IL
      Posts
      3,029
      Country Flag: United States
      3/16" is the size to run. AN (if running stainless) is -3

      Aluminum line is not the way to go. Some people very strongly recommend against even aluminum fitting but I have never had a problem. Either use steel line with a 45 degree double flare or stainless with a 37 degree single flare.

      One piece frotn to back will be hard to do without buying a coil of line. I prefer to buy straight lengths and bend from there. Steel line can be sourced from the local parts store. Stainless line you can get from many sources but i get mine from McMaster.com Stainless line must be seamless.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Another option for tubing material is 90/10 Copper/Nickel tubing...all the pros but with none of the cons associated with steel Bundy tubing or stainless IMO.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2007
      Location
      Greenwood, SC
      Posts
      1,611
      Country Flag: United States

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,164
      Country Flag: United States
      I'm in the process of replacing my entire brake system. I purchased a pre-bent line kit from Inline Tube.

      http://www.inlinetube.com/

      I also ordered a complete FlexKORE hose kit from Kore3.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Support the RPM Act
      https://www.sema.org/rpm-faq.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Carlsbad, Ca
      Posts
      1,213
      Country Flag: United States
      i like the idea of the copper nickel tubing being easy to run. does it look like stainless? cost seems more reasonable than stainless as well.
      Tim

      The WidowMaker: Garage Built 70 Chevelle

      Special Thanks To: Rushforth Wheels, MuscleRodz, Kore3 & SC&C

      Build Thread Link

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Location
      Enumclaw, WA
      Posts
      235
      Country Flag: United States
      Many different kits on inlinetube.com So I have manual drums now...I plan to put the $300 non-power disc brake kit on for about a year or 2...then will upgrade to C6 Z06 w/ power.

      Body will come off in spring so I can powder coat frame, install new suspension, and would like to run new lines. What would make the best purchase? Buy the non-power disc kit and modify later for power when I do the C6 Z06 setup?

      http://www.inlinetube.com/Preformed%...es/CHB7004.htm

      Sorry to hijack....

      1970 Chevelle Pro-Touring Project
      Plans- 6.0L H/C (TT later), T56, UMI suspension, Kore3 C6 Z06 brakes, and lots more....

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by The WidowMaker View Post
      i like the idea of the copper nickel tubing being easy to run. does it look like stainless? cost seems more reasonable than stainless as well.
      It has a much deeper copper-gold tint or hue to it as you might expect, but it will polish up almost as bright as stainless if you want.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jul 2006
      Location
      Orangevale, Ca
      Posts
      147
      Country Flag: United States
      I vote bend your own as it give you the freedom to place everything were you like.


      Name:  IMG_0317.jpg
Views: 1127
Size:  132.5 KB

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Jan 2005
      Location
      Enfield, CT
      Posts
      423
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Apogee View Post
      Another option for tubing material is 90/10 Copper/Nickel tubing...all the pros but with none of the cons associated with steel Bundy tubing or stainless IMO.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      +1. I did the entire car with cunifer (copper/nickel). They've been using it Europe or years.
      '67 GTO - LS3, 4L60E, SC&C AFX Package, KORE3 C6 Z06, Boyds PT-09s

      https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...7-GTO-LS3-Swap


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      The copper/nickel stuff would be ok but every time I try to use roll tubing I have a bitch of a time getting it straight so it looks good. If I am doing a quick and dirty repair its ok but I still prefer using regular inverted flare or iso flare and new tube nuts and unions to build it from different lengths of line.
      Sonce getting my hand bender that can do 180 bends and my hydraulic flaring tool Ihave had zero issues doing near perfect copies of stock line or custom lines.
      But thats me.

      http://catalog.fmsiinc.com/plp/viewi...el-brake-lines
      http://www.agscompany.com/automotive...n-lines/nicopp

      Havent used any but will look for some straight lines to try!
      Last edited by MonzaRacer; 12-16-2011 at 05:48 PM. Reason: add links
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      549
      Country Flag: United States
      So for the line going to the back do I need to couple it or can I buy one straigth length that will be long enough to go front master cylinder to rear lines after making bends? This is the reason i mentioned using a coil and 3/16" is plenty to supply rear lines as well?
      David Butler
      "If you're not first, you're last"
      67 Camaro Twin Turbo SBC (changing from Blow-thru to Holley HP EFI)

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      549
      Country Flag: United States
      and also is the c5 lines a different flare type?
      David Butler
      "If you're not first, you're last"
      67 Camaro Twin Turbo SBC (changing from Blow-thru to Holley HP EFI)

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      I believe the straight lengths of pre-flared tubing are limited to 72" for shipping purposes. Most of the custom tubing suppliers can provide single-piece rear lines with a shipping bend or two such that it will comply with normal parcel shipping sizes and limitations.

      I'm not sure that I understand why you're asking about the C5 hard lines...or did I misunderstand your question? You may be using C5 calipers, however you're going to need a flexible caliper hose to connect the M10x1.0 inlet port on the caliper to the hard lines. What fittings you decide to use at the hard line connection with the caliper hose can be anything, however most people choose to stick with the standard 3/8-24 double-inverted flare fittings as originally supplied on your '67 Camaro. If you're flaring everything yourself and running custom hoses, you can actually pick anything you want, but "standard" is usually easiest in my experience.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      Did anyone see the flexible stainless line with steel on each end in list I posted.
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      549
      Country Flag: United States
      I meant the flex line connection. I know the felxible line attaches to caliper, but is the connection on flexible line where it attaches to metal line just a stanard double flare? Also on the rear flanges of the axles to make them fit the c5 rotors I know some needs to be machined off. After looking it seems to be a very smal amount. Is it necessary to pull axle and machine or can this small smount be filed or ground off without pulling axles?
      David Butler
      "If you're not first, you're last"
      67 Camaro Twin Turbo SBC (changing from Blow-thru to Holley HP EFI)

    18. #18
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      Alabama
      Posts
      549
      Country Flag: United States
      Also I don't think I seen where anyone commented on using a couplings to tie two lines together. Is this a bad idea?
      David Butler
      "If you're not first, you're last"
      67 Camaro Twin Turbo SBC (changing from Blow-thru to Holley HP EFI)

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jan 2010
      Location
      Louisville, KY
      Posts
      152
      Country Flag: United States
      David,
      I've used a coupling in my rear line for many years and have never had a problem. No leaks and I doubt that there's any significant pressure differnece. It definitely makes getting the line through up by the firewall easier. I usually put it somewhere around the drivers seat. I'd also advize you to get a decent tubing bender, a good double flaring tool (doesn't have to be hydraulic) and make your own. It's not that hard and with a little practice you'll be able to make your own line, route it like you want, and save money too.

      DK

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Dec 2010
      Location
      Fredericksburg, VA.
      Posts
      3,164
      Country Flag: United States
      Inline tube sells kits with either one-piece front to back line or two piece front to back line. Your choice. In my case the car came with a one-piece so that is what I went back with.
      Steve Hayes
      "Dust Off"
      68 Camaro

      Support the RPM Act
      https://www.sema.org/rpm-faq.

    Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast



    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com