Front End Lowering Concerns

[ProNovaRat]

Hello All,

I am currently in the position to buy some new front end components, but before I do i would like to get some input from the pro-touring community. I am new to the pro-touring scene and I would like to say I am amped about becoming a part of this country wide community. I have a 1970 Nova and I want to lower my center of gravity as much as possible and still be effective for street and track applications. The question I ahve is if I use a 2" drop spindle along with 2" drop spring will I hinder my streetability, and what would be my overall drop? I have also been trying to get some pics of this set up so if anyone out there has any pics with different lowering combinations for a 70 Nova the visual would be a huge help. Ohh and one other thing its big block powered, with a T56 so overall weight is a little heavy but I gotta keep the big block.

ProRat

[Rod]

a 2 inch spring and 2 inch spindle, might work together but be carefull some tube arms also have a drop built in, and that low limits your tire size, ask aroun here, Im sure all the Nova guys can Direct you for a good start

[exwestracer]

Welcome. Hope we can help.
To do this "right", it's not exactly that simple. I would set the suspension up so the lower control arms are level at ride height. That will give you the most accurate camber change and least amount of side scrub as the suspension moves. Then decide how much lower you may want the body over the tire, and choose a drop spindle (if necessary) to get there.

Once you pull the springs out and level the lower arms, you can measure how long the installed height of the spring needs to be. Then select circle track springs with the correct rate to match the nose weight and the installed height you need.

[ProNovaRat]

Exwestracer,
When I level the lower arms to ride height, what would be the best way about measuring the distance needed for the spring. I just want to make sure I get the correct measurements jbefore looking for springs.

Thanks
ProRat

[TheBandit]

Then select circle track springs with the correct rate to match the nose weight and the installed height you need.

Why would you let ride height dictate your spring rate? You should select spring rates based on the desired ride rate, then use spring adjusters, pads, or other means to change the installed spring height to get the ride height you want.

[exwestracer]

Why would you let ride height dictate your spring rate? You should select spring rates based on the desired ride rate, then use spring adjusters, pads, or other means to change the installed spring height to get the ride height you want.

It's a starting point. He will still have a lot of choices in rate vs free length without using shims or jack bolts. I'm thinking he's not going to know what the ride rate should be yet...

Pro Rat'
Lowering the engine and other components (in the chassis) as much as is practical will have a big influence on how much spring / sway bar you will need to run. As far as measuring the spring installed height, once you have the spring out and the lower control arm level, stick a tape measure up through the shock hole in the lower arm and measure to the top spring perch up in the frame. There should be a piece of rubber up in there; remove it if you want, but measure to where the top of the spring will actually ride. You will have to add to this number for the depth of the spring pocket in the lower a-arm. If you are changing to a tubular lower arm, get those first, then measure this height with the new arms. This is the actual length of the spring when the lower arm is level.

You will also need to know the sprung weight of the front end of the car (without wheels, tire, brakes and suspension pieces). Can't help you with that, but I'm sure somebody on here has that info. We can factor the difference between big and small blocks if need be.