American Motors Xperimental full frame

[johngross]

But ARE the pipes the same length? Just joking. Love the car and appreciate the updates to keep us entertained.

[linkstar69]

Pipes look great, I'm a rookie making exhausts have only made a couple of systems now so I can really appreciate the work in those pipes.

[hechtrod]

Holy Crap Ron! I thought your $5k Mustang was killer. 335's! Love the quirky lines of the AMX. Obviously, fab skills in these first 19 pages are unimaginable to me! Such an inspiration. I loved that pic of the 2 young ladies (I'm assuming granddaughters?) and your comment about getting the cam degree'd right and working for barbies. Can't wait to see the rest of the build and videos of it running. Thanks for sharing this stuff with us!

[Ron S]

Worked on the tail pipes today, look just like Harley pipes. Turned out great, I think Frank had his doubts. Can't install tips until I make the quarters built.

[Yelcamino]

Nice Ron! I bet it's going to sound like a beast!

[RS_Customs]

Looking good!!!! It's going to be fun to pull the rear out now lol.

Robert

[fishtail8]

That exhaust is going to look like an over&under shotgun coming out the back, just super sized! Lovin' this, keep up the great work.

[Ron S]

Got the torque arm crossmember built, exhaust eyebrows were a pain but its done. On the fab tech side, if you place a peice of flat bar under the welded area, and clamp it down while welding it helps to keep the part from ending up shaped like a banana.

[Evoix]

WoW

[johngross]

I'm still waiting to see how the suspension works as I am clueless how this frame will be set up. Although the solid mounts that you have now will last forever, they may not be good for your back.

[Ron S]

I'm still waiting to see how the suspension works as I am clueless how this frame will be set up. Although the solid mounts that you have now will last forever, they may not be good for your back.

I really couldn't build the coilover mounts, until the exhaust and other stuff was mounted. I can now get the mounts built, and it should be more apparent. Unfortunatly I'm switching gears on to the Mustang for a bit, RTTS is right around the corner.

[Protour_Pinto]

That twin engine car is a Buddys car. Just a short film with a little insight to Yannick Sire at Sire Custom Performance.

http://www.autoblog.com/2011/02/28/v...able-hedonism/

Back in the 80s Prostreet phase I worked on a full frame/removable body car. I made 2 bodys for it, a Camaro and a Firebird. I have to find finished pics of them.



I know how much work is going into this build and Im loving it! And it being an AMX is even better.

[65 Fastback]

A little late to the party, but I'm along for the rest of the ride!

Tim

[Pontiac_Matt]

First the mustang and now this AMX. You are one skilled man.

[454bug]

Hey Ron,

Before I swapped over from the Moser floater setup to GMR's setup, I had stopped into a Circle Track speed shop and located a set of steel driveplates that would replace the Moser plates. They already have the holes drilled for 1/2" studs and are setup for the 24-spline axles. They are actually a better design for something that may get a lot of miles on the road because the center snout area where the axle spline is located is not "lightened" like the Moser unit and it would have a much less chance of breaking than the Moser unit. The only drawback to the unit is the $70.00 (each) price tag. But... if you want some insurance of not having a problem of having the 5/8" holes in the driveplate with 1/2" studs, it would probably fix all your problems.

The guy at the shop said they were made by Coleman Racing (who I have heard actually builds the floater hubs for Moser) but I can't locate them on Coleman's site. The only thing I don't know for sure is the placement of the 2 little set screws. I really don't think they serve a whole lot of purpose if the plates have 1/2" holes that line up the plate and then you torque your wheels down... They pretty much don't do anything else but hold the driveplates in place when there isn't a wheel on the car. To me, the drive plate would hold itself in place with the 5 studs holding it in place. With all that being said, the two set screws may be located exactly in the right place. I would just have to carry one of my Moser floating hubs up there to see how they match up...

If you are interested, I can make my way back over to that shop one day and get you some pictures or more information. Let me know if you still need to come up with a solution for your concern on this.

[Ron S]

Thanks Ray, the one thing I love about this site is how everyone trys to watch out for one another. I was actually was talking to Coleman, and Mike Holleman who runs that setup this week. Colemans website isn't the greatest as far as pictures go, I found this pic in a Google search.

I'm agonizing on what to do with my Mustang for a floater. Love the Dana thats in the car,the only part on the car I know I'll never have to touch.
Can't deside wether to lop the ends of the Dana and make it a floater, or switch to a 9" floater. While running a 4 speed with direct drive fourth, I really need a higher rear gear, and I am as high as a Dana will allow 3.54, I'd like to run a 3.20ish gear which is no problem with the 9"rears. Like the Moser DBP setup which is similar to GMR with its bearing seperation, it just doesn't use as big a bearing, and I do hate the driveplates. This is messed up, I think I'm getting my threads mixed up. LOL

[454bug]

Hey Ron,

That's not exactly the plate I was referring to... Although, it's very close. I'm sure Coleman makes a number of different varieties.

Here's a picture I found of the one I was describing. As you can see, Speedway Motors sells the same drive plate. I'm sure Coleman makes them for a number of companies to their specs. It's just like other products where a lot of different companies sell something but they are actually produced by one or two companies... Like the old VCR's...

At least these have the correct 1/2" holes instead of the 5/8" holes in the Moser units. I asked Moser if I could get a custom set ordered with 1/2" hole in them and he told me they weren't really interested in catering to the Pro-Touring market.. They were a race car product company... In today's times, I don't think I would be pushing business away. I'd be looking for ways to increase different market niches...


You see how much beefier it is around the 24-spline axle and hasn't been lightened like the Moser one...



My asphalt circle track buddy said if they were to break from some shock load, they crack in one of these areas that have been lightened. I know we will give these things much less abuse than the racers but it may be an alternative for you... The two countersunk holes for the set screws should be located correctly but probably wouldn't be a big deal to make some new ones if you had to...

JUST SOME MORE INFO TO PONDER!!

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Im very late to this build thread but glad I did not miss out on it alltogether.. Ron did you buy the whole watts link kit from fays2 or did they sell the center football seperate?

[Ron S]

Im very late to this build thread but glad I did not miss out on it alltogether.. Ron did you buy the whole watts link kit from fays2 or did they sell the center football seperate?

I just got the football from them, the rest is homemade. The quality on the Fays2 part was pretty good, if I remember right it was about $100.

[Ron S]

Haven't really had time to work on this thing(been thrashing on the Mustang), but I did get the front 335's on. I'm really diggin it.