Anyone running a Stock Car Products front sway bar?

[camcojb]

I put the engine back in my car yesterday and my relocated A/C compressor hits the sway bar badly; probably would have to be dropped 2" to clear. I mocked the brackets and did not have a sway bar at the time, I was worried about subframe clearance. Since I have a ton of time fabbing up the brackets to locate everything low for turbo clearance and am not going to re-do that, I was wondering if anyone had run something like a Stock Car Products splined sway bar setup, or had moved a bar forward for engine clearance? Any pics if you have? The subframe has already been powdercoated so I'm looking for the least evasive solution to get a bar on the car.

[parsonsj]

Jody,

I'm running one on II Much. It ain't easy getting everything set up to clear all the things in the way (tie rods, frame, a-arms, radiator, fans, balancer, etc.). I'm using one of their solid 49 spline and steel arms. I'll have to have the arms custom bent and heat-treated once the car comes back.

But the best idea is to use sway bar eyebolts to position the bar. See page 47 in the 2004 catalog (they don't have 'em in their online catalog for some reason). The eyebolt allows you to put the bar where it's needed and adjust it. The only problem I see is that proper installation of that would include a welded sleeve. Let me know if this is of interest and I'll get some pics up of the eyebolt and bearing.

jp

[camcojb]

Thanks John. I ended up talking to David at Hellwig and he can custom make one that will clear. I'm going to try his standard bar first as it may work, but if not I'll have them build me one. Super people, and thanks to Tyler for a thread I found saying they build custom bars.

Jody

[parsonsj]

Very intriguing. If I can't get mine to work I may give them a call as well.

Good info.

jp

[Marcus SC&C]

We`ve done a lot with SCP and SRP swaybars. Their modular design is nice to work with but bending the arms and clearing obstructions with the perfectly straight torsion bars can be somewhat of a challenge. They often have to be moved forward to clear the idler and pitman arms. The longer arms add leverage which requires recalculation the rate and ball dia. and or wall thickness. If you take that into account right away it`s really no big deal though. For your problem you may be able to fab up some simple aluminum 2" drop blocks and cut the swaybar end links down to keep the bar ends horizontal? Marcus