3-Link Build

[exwestracer]

Since the axle end is non-adjustable, I'm going to go out on a limb and say you are probably never going to want to use the top 2 holes. That would put a LOT of split (angle) in the bar, which is fine if you're circle track racing, but not so cool for turning both ways. I would plate the bracket over those 2 holes (better yet cut the plates off and go to the tube itself) and build a gusset bar to go in there and tie in as far over on the shock crossmember as you can get. The idea is just to take the shear load off the welds.

[Probird]

I just finished doing that exact same thing. I cut the plates just below the top 2 holes and then welded a tube from the crossmember to the panhard bar mount. The axle end is actually adjustable, just loosen the clamp and roll it up or down. I can adjust it 3" up and down, I also gusseted the axle mount. I'm pretty sure the only weak link is going to be the axle bracket itself. The tubes that the bolts run through on the axle clamp will go long before anything else but I figure that since it's a circle track bracket it will hold. I actually plan on welding the bracket to the rearend once I get the ride height set. I figure that the bracket itself is meant to be welded, the bolts are just for mocking things up. Now that almost all of the fab work is done I can move to the front end. I pick up the motor from the machine shop next week. It should take me about a month to get it assembled, +/- a month or two.lol...I'm old school and building a good old fashioned BBC, a 396 bored .090 to be exact. Once I get the motor together I can set the ride height and then drill the holes for my third link to establish my anti-squat. Thanks again for your input and I'm sure you'll be hearing from me again in the near future!

[exwestracer]

I actually plan on welding the bracket to the rearend once I get the ride height set. I figure that the bracket itself is meant to be welded, the bolts are just for mocking things up.

Right. Non-adjustable...