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    Results 1 to 9 of 9
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      New Washington, IN
      Posts
      1,510

      Brake lines leaking

      I installed new brake lines, and used a line wrench to tighten them ,snug. I am getting drips at just about every connection. Lines are new, hoses are new, calipers are new. On the calipers I used copper washers on both sides of the fitting. At the prop valve I am getting a leak too. I did not use any teflon tape or paste. Installed all with dry threads.

      1971 Camaro 427 in waiting
      1988 C1500 Daily Driver
      1955 Bel Air, blown BBC street car


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      Cartersville, GA
      Posts
      1,299
      Country Flag: United States
      I'd check the quality of the flares...if they are pre-bent lines, they are rarely an issue, but its worth checking, along with the fittings and threads themselves. You may just not have the fittings tight enough. Flares shouldn't need any tape or other sealants, but if you have an aftermarket prop valve with NPT fittings, the NPT side will need tape or thread sealant.
      Joe Hinds

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Feb 2002
      Location
      Santee, CA
      Posts
      387
      Country Flag: United States
      As Joe mentioned, pre-bent lines are rarely an issue, but if your brake lines were custom made, make sure they didn't use a 37 degree flare. 37 degree is used for AN fittings, but brake lines use a 45 degree double flare.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Apr 2004
      Location
      Cedar Rapids, IA
      Posts
      999
      tighten the nut then back it off and retighten. You will find when you retighten a second or third time you can turn the nut further. As stated above make sure the flare are good and also that the part your tightening to is not bunged up.
      Some times I'm fast sometimes I'm half-fast

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Oct 2005
      Location
      New Washington, IN
      Posts
      1,510
      Thanks for the tips. Yes they are prevent lines. Prop valve is gm. I'll check them out again.
      1971 Camaro 427 in waiting
      1988 C1500 Daily Driver
      1955 Bel Air, blown BBC street car

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      I took apart a line to move things around and thought I had it tight and it leaked(GM line). Had to really crank it tight. As the others said sometimes there can be a nick in the flair on either end.
      1978 Black Trans Am 455 Edelbrock heads [email protected] through mufflers on pump gas
      1981 Trans Am 400 stock type motor
      79 Camaro getting a 500" 695 hp IA2 Pontiac motor
      1965 GTO project car
      470ci/Chevy dual quad 409 604 HP 64 Impala SS project
      2004 Pulse Red GTO

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      Midwest
      Posts
      2,263
      Country Flag: United States
      I like to dab a little assembly lube on the threads to help them squeeze smoother without galling... this way, you feel the flares tightening together rather than threads galling.
      Kevin Oeste
      V8 Speed and Resto Shop
      V8TV
      Muscle Car Of The Week
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      All about us:
      https://www.v8speedshop.com


    8. #8
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Eden, WI
      Posts
      97
      Country Flag: United States
      Are they stainless steel lines? They are much harder and more difficult to seal.

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by rohrt View Post
      tighten the nut then back it off and retighten. You will find when you retighten a second or third time you can turn the nut further.
      X2...loosening and retightening is the best way to seat the sealing surfaces without over-torquing the fittings.

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.




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