Front Rebuild Tips

[TheRoaringEagle]

I'm preparing to install my new parts and was wondering if you guys had any tips for me. I have Hotchkis coils and sway bar, Edelbrock IAS shocks, and GW UCA's - already assembled. Is there a prefered order in which I install? And will I absolutely need a spring compressor tool for the coils?

What are other things I need to pay attention to? Thanks

BTW If I used the spring compressor tool would I have to pull out the shocks first? I never touched coils before.

[baz67]

uppers, lowers and spindle on the upper or lower. Install the compressed spring, be VERY carfeul, and seat it correctly. Install the spindle to the other arm. Double check everything is OK before you unscrew the spring compressor. After all that install the shock.

[TheRoaringEagle]

Sorry to be PITA! but I noticed that the spring compressor I could borrow from Kragen's is kind of bulky. What kind of spring compressor can I use for my 67 Camaro? It seems that even if I manage to pull out the shock from the bottom of the LCA, which looks doubtful, I wouldn't be able to shove in a spring compressor through.

The guy at Kragen's mentioned using a coil spring compressor that latches on the outside, which isn't a common model. Would that work? Judging by how much space I have between the frame and the LCA - even extended - it doesn't seem it'd fit either.

[CAMAROBOY69]

baz67 pretty much summed it up the order of operations perfect.
Yes more than likely you will need to pull your lower shock off to get the spring compressor thru the bottom of the control arm. It goes thru the bottom hole then into your spring. The spring must be compressed before installing.
Here are a couple pics from when I lower my car last year. These pics are right before I installed my coil springs. Hopefully the pics help reduce any confusion. I ended up making a notch for the spring compressor to go thru but you probably wont have to.
driver side----------------------pass side---------notch for spring compressor
If you have pics of your set up that would help too.

[6'9"Witha69]

I did not have a spring compressor. Used the old "jack under the control arm" method. Just had to make sure to lower it SLOWLY! Lowering springs are short enough you really don't need a compressor. I built my subframe and suspension in the back of my 62! just pushed down on the frame a little and put the nuts on the ball joints. Remember 2 crucial things:
1. Tighten up the Control arms with the weight of the car on the suspension.
2. Locate the springs properly! - I have seen cars higher on one side because of this and you have to take that side apart again to fix it.

[TheRoaringEagle]

I just finished and the end result is great. I used the "jack under LCA" method and it worked just right for my application. I had short stock but cut springs and they just fell out when I lowered the jack. I installed Hotchkis lowering springs and it raised my front end about 1 1/2 - 2 inches. The stance is almost perfect.

How long will I have to wait until the spring fully settles? And how much will it drop? I'm actually hoping it'll stay about where it is now so I can get some taller wider tires on. Right now I have 205/??R15s and they used to tuck under the fender! Now I have about an inch between the top of tire to fender. I've got Hotchkis lowering springs and GW UCAs, what do you guys think would fit under there with a 15" x 7" wheel with... 5"? backspacing.

[6'9"Witha69]

If they Settle ~1/4 inch over a month that should be about the most. When I ran 15X7 rallys up front I used a 235/60/15. It filled the gap just right and cleared everything. The tires are ~26.1 inches tall. 245/45/17s are 25.7.

[TheRoaringEagle]

Could you fit a 15x8 wheel in the front with the same tire? Or do you think it'd make the tire bulge out more?

[6'9"Witha69]

The tire would not bulge at all with a wider rim. I have 4.5" BS on my 17X8 fronts and have a wee bit o tire rub at full turn.

[rocketrod]

How long will I have to wait until the spring fully settles? And how much will it drop?

I installed the same combo except with Hotchkis shocks about six weeks ago and mine has settled over 1". I am going to drive it some and then get it aligned.

Right now I have 205/??R15s and they used to tuck under the fender! Now I have about an inch between the top of tire to fender. I've got Hotchkis lowering springs and GW UCAs, what do you guys think would fit under there with a 15" x 7" wheel with... 5"? backspacing.

I am running 17x8 w/ 4-7/8" BS with 235/45/17 and I have plenty of room. In fact I wish I had went with 245s. I imagine the 15x7 w/ 5" BS will be fine. it really depends on what series tire you are running.

[TheRoaringEagle]

Okay I got the tires on and they couldn't align my wheels. I have several problems with my suspension they pointed out. The major one being the pitman arm. It's loose where it is connected to the centerlink. Will I have to replace the whole arm? Or can I salvage this one?

The lower balljoints are also "loose" so I'm going to pull those arms out and redo them. What bushings do you guys recommend? Polyurethane or rubber? I have del-a-lum up top.

And finally the wheel bearings on the driver's side need to be replaced.

The 235/60R15s rub a whole lot on my inner fenders and the bolts. Someone mentioned button head bolts? I need those, would replacing the hex headed bolts with rounded phillips head bolts be okay? I'm also going to have to roll some lips and cut off some inner fender well panels. Ugh.

The driver's side wheel rubs hard on the rear inner fender while the passenger side wheel rubs hard on the front portion of the fender extension. I'm hoping it's because of the pitman arm being janky. Is that feasible? Or is my subframe out of alignment?!

Sorry for the many questions...

[yody]

well obviously go with del a lums in the lower to match, with moog balljoints

[TheRoaringEagle]

I can't afford del-a-lum right now...