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Thread: Question about wiring ignition
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06-26-2005 #1
Question about wiring ignition
I am in the process of upgrading the electrical on my Corvette. One of the major items is getting a good 12v supply to the HEI. I have been reading diagrams, and I can't see how the ignition gets power in the original Chevy system, or how it is turned off. I have located the original purple ignition wire, and it gets power only in the crank position. So, based on the diagrams on this page http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te.../148_0312_hot/, I can't see how power would be maintained to the coil. Can someone clarify this for me?
Thanks
Ken69 Camaro
427, 4 speed, TTII's, Konis, JL8 clone brakes, solid AL body bushings, some assembly still required
69 Corvette
427, 4 speed, TTII's, Bilsteins, HEI, what I work on while the Camaro sits
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06-26-2005 #2
Full Blown G-Machiner
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
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- Roanoke, VA
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Based on those diagrams the ign coil wont get power....now whether its a typo on their part or they are omitting part of the circuit for clarity I cant tell you. None the less neither of those circuit schematics will allow the ignition coil to be powered if hooked up as theyre shown.
Originally Posted by BB69
What I can tell you is that the purple wire, when used on GM stuff, is normally just for the starter selonoid and it only gets power when the key is turned to the "start" position but is unpowered when in "run" (you prolly knew that already).
What you need to do to get power to the coil is find the wire that comes from the ignition switch that stays energized during both the start and run positions of the ignition switch and is de-energized when the switch is turned off or in the accessory position. If you have the wiring schematics for your particular car this wire(s) should be fairly easy to locate and tap in to.GMC Syclone (currently wrecked thanks to the typical rubber headed VA driver not paying attention to his red stop light...oh and he didnt have insurance either)
#614 11.9 @ 113
New stuff finished 08/06:
4L80E trans w/TCI PCM
Front: J&S UCA/LCA, QA1 coil overs
Rear: Caltracks/Belltech drop leaves
Empire drive line alum drive shaft
Polished 17x9 F/17x11 R ZR1s with 275s/315s
Syclone
Tow rig
07-01-2005 #3David, do you think for voltage drop concerns (if any) it would be a good idea to run a relay for the coil so that it would see a more reliable 12v and thus not have as a high of a load going through the ignition switch? Just a thought-and no intent to highjack the thread. -Jabin
Gmachinz Sales and Performance
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07-01-2005 #4
Full Blown G-Machiner
- Join Date
- Nov 2004
- Location
- Roanoke, VA
- Posts
- 515
You could do that but the primary side of most ignitions doesnt really draw a huge amount of current so most any ignition switch should carry the load reliably for decades on end.
Originally Posted by gmachinz
The starter selonoid uses a seperate set of contacts from the ignition circuit inside the switch on GM stuff (usually) so the ignition system really isnt affected by the current draw of the starter selonoid.GMC Syclone (currently wrecked thanks to the typical rubber headed VA driver not paying attention to his red stop light...oh and he didnt have insurance either)
#614 11.9 @ 113
New stuff finished 08/06:
4L80E trans w/TCI PCM
Front: J&S UCA/LCA, QA1 coil overs
Rear: Caltracks/Belltech drop leaves
Empire drive line alum drive shaft
Polished 17x9 F/17x11 R ZR1s with 275s/315s
Syclone
Tow rig
07-02-2005 #5



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