No Limit Challenge - er

[RobNoLimit]

After seeing what you built on 67-72chevytrucks.com I cant wait to see this one done..

Thanks. Coming soon is Project "Reaper", a 68 C-10 that will make some of our other builds like mondane and dull.

[RobNoLimit]

With the tubs welded in place, it's time to start trimmimg them in. What you can't see is the original inner roof brace. I started there, and attached it down to the new tubs.

[RobNoLimit]

This will be a front side trimmer. 18 GA 1 1/8 wide, formed 90 @ 1/2" in. Notice the marks down the edge every inch. This makes forming a lot easier.

[RobNoLimit]

Forming the front trimmer using a stretcher. This took about 30 min to fit in per side.

[RobNoLimit]

Once the trimmer fits all around it's time to install it. The back side is sprayed with rust-o-leum along with the tubb tops. Then the welding starts, this approach will follow all around the tubbs.

[RobNoLimit]

Here are the lower bar parts. The tube inserts on the right are mine-No Limit Parts. The ones on the left are from "The Chassis Shop"-really nice-L.H. tread. You know the really cool ones you see-nice, smooth, and tapered down that you weld in and smooth off-well, they suck. You WILL need to put a wrench on these, and if your bar is all smooth then I guess you use chanell locks or vise grips. Plan ahead use hex inserts

[RobNoLimit]

Here is a look at the lower bars. Yes-I will use jam nuts during assembly. LOL Looking at this picture makes me realize it's time to clean the shop.

[67zo6Camaro]

Out standing work Rob.

Glad you are showcasing your skills.

[wellis77]

Awesome work Rob. Did you Mig or Tig the tubs and are they a kit or did you scratch-build them?

[RobNoLimit]

Thanks guys. The tubbs are scratch built. Most of the suspension is T.I.G. welded, but, in the interest of time, I M.I.G. most of the sheet metal. I use .023" wire on most sheet metal 18 ga. and thinner, .030" for 16 ga. to 10 ga., and .035" wire for 1/8" and bigger. I mostly use a C-25 gas mix, it leaves a clean finish. Our cars are built to be drivin. Undercoating, dyno-mat, cool-mat, is all part of the build plan. You never see the underlying metal work, so we don't think it's fair to bump up the billing to the customer with the 'all T.I.G.' approach. This 'ol car will be bullitproof when we're done, I have no doubts. Have a great Labor Day Weekend

[rrunner68]

Love the tubs. If and when we got for bigger tires on the Road Runner, you're gonna have some work to do....

[Nessumsar]

Great stuff Rob. Glad to see you posting your work, I'm sure there are plenty of people in our area that could use your work.

[nicke]

Thats looking real nice! I love these challengers done up like this! Reminds me of a 70' that is being built by a shop here in Spokane. http://www.ocdcustomcars.com/challenger/
I can wait to see how this build turns out and will certainly be following!

[kmdracer]

Cool! Subing to watch the build.

[ryeguy2006a]

Nice build, the 1970 is my favorite year Challenger.

[Bill_Osiris]

sub'd for more progress

[MrQuick]

Here are the lower bar parts. The tube inserts on the right are mine-No Limit Parts. The ones on the left are from "The Chassis Shop"-really nice-L.H. tread. You know the really cool ones you see-nice, smooth, and tapered down that you weld in and smooth off-well, they suck. You WILL need to put a wrench on these, and if your bar is all smooth then I guess you use chanell locks or vise grips. Plan ahead use hex inserts

Hi Rob, do/can you sell these not threaded?

[RobNoLimit]

no, the ones I have made in hex stock are all threaded 3/4-16 RH. I have tham done at a local job shop in batches of apx 400 pts, so it's tough to make get them any other way unless i want big numbers.

[ramlinman]

don't stop now... as the audience grows

[RobNoLimit]

I'm workin', I'm workin', ... i'll get some more shots up today, little bits of sheet metal. - this is the slow part.