full frame f-body mounts

[grenade inspector]

I'm sorry if this is painfully stupid sounding in the morning but where are the full frames for 1st gen f-bodies being anchored in the back, up front you have the subframe mounts, in the rear are people using the leaf spring mounts? are the rear rails then left in?

[MyFriendScott]

Keep an eye on this build:
https://www.pro-touring.com/showthre...-Roadster-Shop

It's got a full frame going in. From the looks of it in the pic, the last body mount looks to be about lined up where the door meets the quarter panel.

[novaderrik]

probably the spring mounting locations.. that would make the most sense.

[grenade inspector]

yeah that is the thread that got me thinking about it again, I had looked at it briefly before but now that I'm closer to actually building something I thought I might revisit it.

[astroracer]

I am putting a full frame in an Astro and I will be adding four additional body mounts (2 per side). One right in front of the leaf spring attachments and one at the back using part of the old welded rail, which was the rear shackle hanger. Should be similar for the F-bodies.
Mark

[JRouche]

I'm sorry if this is painfully stupid sounding in the morning but where are the full frames for 1st gen f-bodies being anchored in the back, up front you have the subframe mounts, in the rear are people using the leaf spring mounts? are the rear rails then left in?

Not sure what you are talking about, my bust. You say "full frame" but do you mean sub frame connectors?

I only ask cause I mis-represented what I was doing when asked. I said I was installing a full frame in my car but I dont think I did.

My car is a 62 Nova, it has a front sub-frame and uni-body rear as stock. I cut the entire (ok, most of it, back bumper to the toe boards) floor out and welded in a new floor using some 16ga sheetmetal while grafting in an art morrison 2x4 steel rear "clip". The art morrison rear clip only went to the back of the front seats. I used some additional 2x4 steel to link it up to the front sub frame at the firewall along with two side to side cross members. To me thats NOT a full frame.

Its close, and strong (yeah, I hacked it and welded the 2x4 to the front sub frame, its no longer a bolt on sub, its firmly welded).

And I welded the entire frame to the floor pan. Yep, solid welds (very long beads) on both sides of each frame rail and all of the cross members. So yeah, it might be heavy with all the welds, might be time consuming (I love to weld) but its ONE STIFF CAR!!! I can jack up one corner and lift the entire car crosswise (engine and all), no flex, its like a solid sheet of flat steel.

But its still not a full frame car. Its a sub-frame car with some solid steel between the sub frames. And it works.

Back to your Q? Yes I think you have a good idea. Take the sub-frame connectors to the front part of the car and the forward part of the leaf spring mounts is a good ending point. The structure for the leaf springs is pretty built up and it will handle the force needed.

Even if you have some decent HP!! The force applied with a strong engine will be at the forward leaf spring mounts. Thats where the engine meets the body. Its kinda a push forward and up sitch, the up is what folks tend to deal with, more forward would be better. But I strayed, suspensions VS frame issues.

It sounds like you have a handle on it. Get to going!!! PICS!!! We all love them, ok, I do anyway... JR

[astroracer]

Art Morrison , Swartz Performance are producing "full frames" for the 1st gen F-bodies. These replace the front cradle and rear unibody rails.