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    1. #26
      Join Date
      Jan 2009
      Location
      San Antonio, Texas
      Posts
      283
      Country Flag: United States
      Continue to make steady progress...

      Started stripping the paint out of the engine compartment.

      Rear shocks have arrived, so rear suspension is almost done. Just have to finish up by finding better hardware to secure the leaf springs. Would like to find better leaf spring shackles as well; stock stuff looks a bit thin.

      Think I have the hub issue worked out - - the seal on the back of the hub and the bearings were hanging up on burrs on the threaded portion of the axle tube - - chewed up the seals on both hubs. Sanded the burr down and now things are sliding on and off nicely.

      One of the axles was too long; Speedway recommends that the end of the axle sit about 1/16" - 1/8" below the level of the drive plate. Driver's side was right at 1/8" below drive plate - good to go. However, the passenger side was .73" below the drive plate. The axles are threaded on the ends so you can screw a bolt in the end (jam nut it w/plenty of red Loctite) to space the axle out a bit, but this would have spaced the axle out too far of the splines in the TrueTrac diff, which only has 1" of splines, and the splines end 1 1/8" outboard of the spacer in the diff. Have a 32.25" axle on the way; it should be dead on or maybe 1/16" too long. If so, I can take a bit off the end to dial it in just right.

      Working a deal on brakes - Wilwood 6 piston SL-6 calipers with 12.8" x 1.25" rotors (2 piece w/hats drilled to 5 on 4.5"). Brakes are used, but not all beat up and come with a few sets of Hawk DTC 70 pads (pads are worth about what I'm paying for the entire setup). Also have some drum spindles and hubs on the way. Plan is to rebuild the calipers, use the drum hubs, fab up mounting brackets.

      Thanks

      Scott

      Check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck rescues and rebuilds! THE BULLETPROOF GARAGE!!! - YouTube





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