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    Thread: AC swaps?

    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      orlando fl
      Posts
      419

      AC swaps?

      I have a 77 TA that supposedly needs a new compressor. It has the orginal compressor on it. The air doesnt blow hardly at all no wind flow or anything. It was recently recharged and still nothing. Iv had a few mechanics tell me i need a new compressor. With that said im debating on which way to go. The car is a factor AC car but even if the AC was working perfect in that car, i want it to blow like 2008 VW passat. Its hot as hell here in orlando and I wanna take the car out weekends and not melt without AC. My question is can i find an late model AC unit and fabricate it into my car? or will it never work with that ponitac 400 engine? just wondering if that was possible. I know alot of you guys are proponents of the vintage systems but thats just alittle out of my budget right now. plus cant be as cold as the VW's thing is ice.

      Also Classic industries sell's a smaller aluminum compressor thats 400$ will that be worth buying over and factor rebuilt unit that i could get for 150? its saysss it blows hard and suppose bogs the engine down less. When that AC was working ok. (which ok is the best it ever was) it bogged down that engine a ton. Just looking for some insight. i gotta my a descion fast tho. Love my car but now that summer here in FL its definitly to hot. Thanks



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Location
      Lynnwood Wa.
      Posts
      248
      Country Flag: United States
      Convert to a Sanden. Check E-bay you should be able to pick one up for $150.00 or less. Any of the Sanden compressors will work as long as they are a universal type with a 2 grove V belt pulley and 12 volt clutch.
      the AC systems are designed for R12 refrigerant, do not convert to R 134 The Sanden will work with R134 or R12, even though the ad will say R134.
      Vintage Air offers a bracket to mount a Sanden Compressor on a Pontiac engine.
      http://www.vintageair.com/DownloadsS...%20PONTIAC.pdf
      As for the fan speed check the fan relay pictured below.
      As long as the metal fittings on the hose assemblies are not damaged they are reusable. Take them to a local AC shop and have the hose sections replace with the Teflon barrier hose.
      Attached Images Attached Images  
      Oliver Shultz
      It's OK to giggle and snicker. don't laugh and point

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      orlando fl
      Posts
      419
      looks good....tell me about this sanden compressor.....what will be the advantages over buying another one the same as mine.....more wind speed? colder? less "bog" down on engine?

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jun 2005
      Location
      Lynnwood Wa.
      Posts
      248
      Country Flag: United States
      The Sanden is lighter weight and more efficient design. Smaller size. any other technical aspects I don't know.
      Oliver Shultz
      It's OK to giggle and snicker. don't laugh and point

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2010
      Location
      orlando fl
      Posts
      419
      hmmm im gonna call the company.....thanks

    6. #6
      Join Date
      May 2009
      Posts
      20
      I'm not sure that the compressor really has much to do with duct discharge temp. If its not working then yes no pressure equals no cool air. From what I have seen R-12 systems generally blow cooler air than R-134. I haven't messed with 12 allot but I have heard its considerably more expensive than R-134.

      What seems to affect the system the most is total system refrigerant capacity, correct charge weight, correct pressure's, and condenser efficiency. The condenser needs air flow at all times when running the system. This becomes a problem when stopped either run a electric fan on it or find a way to run the engine cooling fan when stopped/idling when the system is on.

      Also you say the air speed out of the vents is low. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here but isn't the blower fan what produces the air flow not the AC compressor.
      1969 Camaro in pieces currently waiting for more funding for the next move, Frame Rack.

      1965 Chevelle 388 SBC AFR 220 CNC'd,Muncie m-21 close ratio, centerforce clutch. Hopefully ready to terrorize the streets this summer!

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Dec 2006
      Location
      Out of the Burbs of Detroit to SoCal, then onto my ancestral homeland, the woods of Cascadia
      Posts
      1,753
      Country Flag: United States
      You may have multiple problems.

      You need to find out why "The air doesnt blow hardly at all no wind flow or anything." Does the blower motor under-perform, or is there a controls issue that doesn't direct the air to the correct outlets. Another condition that may be occuring is poor placement of face outlets to service the front seat passengers. I added a face level outlet on driver's left to my car to help my situation. The correct blower motor blowing through a clean evap core directed to the correct outlets should deliver the air volume and velocity you want. It is my opinion you need to focus on this area before assesing the need for a compressor.

      The second potential problem is vent air temperature. It may also be affected by controls, if the cold air is reheated by poor door positioning. I'd check the vacuum supply to the A/C control to make sure it's good (it defaults to heated air defrost for saftey reasons.) Make sure the control head works- move the controls and watch for vacuum motor movement.

      Good Hunting.
      Greg Fast
      (yes, the last name is spelled correctly)

      1970 Camaro RS Clone
      1984 el Camino
      1973 MGB vintage E/Prod race car
      (Soon to be an SCCA H/Prod limited prep)

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Lafayette, LA, USA
      Posts
      485
      Country Flag: Canada
      To check the blower you need to measure the voltage at the motor then possibly at the switch. Over time fan switches seem to become more resistive therefor there is a larger voltage drop at the switch. I had a 79 F150 like this and ended up running a bypass (high) switch that took full power to the motor. It was night and day different.
      Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting - Holy cow - what a ride!!!
      See my build

      Jason

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Cornettsville, ky
      Posts
      892
      Country Flag: United States
      you can convert a a6 to r134 just change out all the seals also the a6 in the 78 442 my grandfather had was probably the coldes ac ive ever felt




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