Keeping flash rust away?

[68nogoat]

Looking for a little advice.

I have a car completely diassembled right now. I have been working on removing rust from things like the engine block, rear axle, and inner wheel wells. However, its still too cold to paint in NJ in my unheated barn.

Am I okay spraying the bare cast and sheet metal with Aero-kroil/WD-40 and wiping it down to keep it from rusting? My plan was to just keep wiping it down with that, and then when the time comes to paint the stuff, to use wax and grease remover and shoot it with Epoxy.

This worries me a little, especially with the cast metal, because I am afraid the WD-40 is going to soak in and mess up the paint.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[dontlifttoshift]

http://getgibbs.com/

Use this...paint friendly and super awesome stuff to use. It is the same stuff RadRides sells as metal protectant. it is no more expensive to buy it from them if you want or see if you can find a local Gibbs dude. It also works great on bare aluminum and magnesium for protecting that "as cast" look. This is where I found out about it many years ago http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/



Donny

[rjsjea]

Agree on the Gibbs stuff......bought mine through RadRides, shipped in two days.

Havent tried to paint over it though

[68nogoat]

Thanks for the advice on the Gibbs. I am definitely going to order a can and try that stuff out. I just found out about the Aero-Kroil a few months ago and I have to say I am addicted to that stuff. It is a seriously old-timey company, whih is kinda cool. I took my entire car apart, including a chassis that was all original, body bolts that had never been off, and the entire exhaust with out a single broken or frozen bolt.

Even with the Gibbs, I think the question remains though. Maybe its a stupid question, but I am really new to doing all of this on my own. I am not sure if coating parts with a lubricant to prevent rust while awaiting paint is a good idea, or if it is just asking for trouble. I know the wax and grease remover is designed for the job, but not sure if coating everything with a petroleum based product is just making it more likely I will have paint issues, especially witht the cast metal and along weld lines, etc.

[The WidowMaker]

wd40 has silicone and is not good to put any where near your car. i have been told there is nothing additional to prep when using gibbs.

[Cris@JCG]

Red scuff pad with Gibbs oil.. This stuff works great!! Just ordered two cases of the stuff..

[68nogoat]

wd40 has silicone and is not good to put any where near your car. i have been told there is nothing additional to prep when using gibbs.

Yeah I agree. I am actually using the Aero-Kroil, but I put WD-40 just because I am not sure how many people have heard of the Kroil. I actually don't use WD-40 for anything. I guess I will try the Gibbs out instead, but I have to say, while I also read that you don't need to prep it for paint, there is no way I am going to paint over that stuff without cleaning the parts first.

Thanks to all for the great advice.

[The WidowMaker]

I guess I will try the Gibbs out instead, but I have to say, while I also read that you don't need to prep it for paint, there is no way I am going to paint over that stuff without cleaning the parts first.

im with you on that.

[rohrt]

I would love to hear more testimonial on the GIBBS

[FATRAT]

i have used GIBBS brand for five years it is more than i expected.i have had a front fender that was sanded to bare metal then treated with GIBBS sitting in the garage for two years with no signs of rust. it also works great on guns

[68nogoat]

Just ordered up some Gibbs to use as a protectant. Having read the websites however, I am begginning to wonder if the Gibbs and Kroil are not very similar products. For what its worth, as I said above, Kroil is by far the best penetrating oil I have ever used. If any of you guys have never tried it, I highly recommend it for your next rusty project. It looks like Gibbs is also designed to be a lubricant as well, so that may add to its "protectant" abilitiies.


Thanks for all the advice!!

[daredvl22]

http://getgibbs.com/

Use this...paint friendly and super awesome stuff to use. It is the same stuff RadRides sells as metal protectant. it is no more expensive to buy it from them if you want or see if you can find a local Gibbs dude. It also works great on bare aluminum and magnesium for protecting that "as cast" look. This is where I found out about it many years ago http://www.roadsters.com/gibbs/

Donny

I just ordered 4 cans to give it a try. Thanks for the tip!

[The WidowMaker]

its supposed to help preserve a polish as well. im starting to wonder if it will keep my kids handprints from showing up on our stainless appliances. im going to give that a shot along with the diamond plate on our fire engines.

[elitecustombody]

its supposed to help preserve a polish as well. im starting to wonder if it will keep my kids handprints from showing up on our stainless appliances. im going to give that a shot along with the diamond plate on our fire engines.

Try Top Coat from Ducora, I got my wife hooked on that stuff,she uses it around the house, I use it on my cars,glass, trim, front and backside on wheels,brake calipers,glass, paint,I just looked at testimonials and found one of my customers comment,let me tell you, if this guy is using it, that means it works, he is very picky and anal about his cars and planes,I did some work on both, gray Bimmer and Piper

https://www.ducora.com/index.htm

Didn't mean to derail the thread, so I'll contribute .

OP, look into Picklex 20,no oily residue,much cleaner welds and most important, no rust! I use it all the time,no matter how big or small is the project,if there is bare metal and welding, I'm using it.

http://www.picklex20.com/