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03-11-2011 #4
Could be a VATS problem, it's common that the wires in the column lock break. Check the resistance of the little chip in the key, then you put the key in the ignition lock and unplug the connector coming out of the column. It should be two small white wires. The resistance through those wires should be the same as the key. If it's open (OL) then the column lock is bad. You can either replace it or wire in a resister the same resistance as the key to bypass the key and cylinder all together. I just did it a few weeks ago on my brother's GP. It wouldn't crank at all turning the key but when I jumped the starter it would start briefly and die. His key was 4.7k ohms so I bought a pack of 4 at radio shack for a couple bucks and soldered one into the wires coming out of the column. Starts and runs fine and was much cheaper and easier than a new column lock, and if the resister ever goes bad for some reason it's easy to replace.
If the resistance on those wires is the same as the key then it could be part of the VATS still but you'd need to get some service info to figure out what to check next. If it's not the column lock I'd go straight to the ignition switch next and see if there is power on whatever wire should only have power in the start position. You can figure out which wire it is by turning the key to run, pretty much all but one wire should have power, the one that doesn't should have power in the start position only. If there is no power there in the start position, then it's either a VATS problem or the ignition switch itself.
If there is power there in the start position then the VATS isn't the problem. At that point I'd be looking for any switches or relays that prevent starting in gear and go from there.
Hope all that helps
Edit: just realized if it's anything other than VATS it should stay running after jumping the starter. I'd say check the key thing and let us know what you find thereTraven

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