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    Results 21 to 31 of 31
    1. #21
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      4,462
      Country Flag: United States
      I ended up using the .030" pinion shim and .007" backlash .
      The drive and coast patterns were still a little too high on the tooth.

      I finally got the rest of the car back together and got around to driving the car .
      There is a noticable , annoying gear whine on part throttle / cruise speeds of around 55 to 65 mph ..
      It's loud !!
      Sounds like a small 747 !
      The noise is not noticable on acceleration or deceleration , just part throttle cruise .
      I'm concerned .

      Should I go back and try a new pattern ? ( maybe with a deeper pattern on the coast side ? )
      Maybe I have the pinion preload too light and the pinion gear is moving around and making noise ?
      (I used an inch pound wrench to set pinion preload , it seemed right ).



      Does anybody know of a good rearend builder I can ship this rearend too , to get it straightened out ?
      Jeff Tate
      U.S.A.
      "The best thing about participating in these events is that you get to hang out with a group of intelligent like minded people who live to achieve things in their lives. You won't find a lazy, mean, or dumb bone in their bodies." Bret Voelkel, RideTech


    2. #22
      Join Date
      Dec 2002
      Location
      Lost Wages, Nevada
      Posts
      2,683
      Country Flag: United States
      Personally... I liked the 0.028" w/ 0.007"

      Check yer PM

    3. #23
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      1,747
      Country Flag: United States
      Jeff,
      I wish I'd seen this sooner. I would've driven up just to see if I could toss in my .02 cents (and possibly learn something in the process). The unfortunate part is that everything I have ever heard installing gears is that once they start whining they never quit. I hope you're able to get it fixed without needing to buy another gear. I figured the 2nd couple of pictures had a pretty good pattern and would've thought it would've run well with that pattern. Mind you, I'm no gear expert (at all), but I have done quite a bit of research in what it takes to setup 12 bolt gears. Mine's in sore need of new gears. I'm curious, what gear did you pull out and what gear did you go back with?
      GeoffP
      68 Camaro - LS1/T-56

    4. #24
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      4,462
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks Tom ,
      I got your PM .
      Jeff Tate
      U.S.A.
      "The best thing about participating in these events is that you get to hang out with a group of intelligent like minded people who live to achieve things in their lives. You won't find a lazy, mean, or dumb bone in their bodies." Bret Voelkel, RideTech

    5. #25
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      4,462
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by GeoffP View Post
      Jeff,
      The unfortunate part is that everything I have ever heard installing gears is that once they start whining they never quit. I hope you're able to get it fixed without needing to buy another gear.

      I'm curious, what gear did you pull out and what gear did you go back with?
      I hope I don't have to buy another gear set . I've only driven it about 80 miles. Maybe they are not worn-in in too bad .

      I took the 1970 GM 3.31 gears out .
      I didn't dislike the 3.31 ratio that much .
      I just wanted a quieter gearset. The old GM gears roared on decel .
      I'm putting a 3.55 Yukon Gear set in .
      Jeff Tate
      U.S.A.
      "The best thing about participating in these events is that you get to hang out with a group of intelligent like minded people who live to achieve things in their lives. You won't find a lazy, mean, or dumb bone in their bodies." Bret Voelkel, RideTech

    6. #26
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      1,747
      Country Flag: United States
      The fact that you're able to do it "at home" gives me confidence to try it myself (with the proper tools of course). Would you suggest pulling the axle completely out of the car to make it easier to setup? It's not like I can't do without the car for a few weeks while it's apart or anything. Let me know if you could use a second set of hands - I'm up for a road trip.
      GeoffP
      68 Camaro - LS1/T-56

    7. #27
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Unless you have a good engine stand or something that can be used to help you hold the housing....I'd do the job in the car, the car is a helping hand.....just wait til you have to crush the sleeve while trying to hold everything still by yourself.
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


    8. #28
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      4,462
      Country Flag: United States
      I've built several at home over the years , but this one is giving me a problem .
      I just don't have the knowledge and experience to straighten it out .

      Having the rearend out of the car makes it more accessible , but the car does help hold it steady while you work .
      If you built the rearend on a bench (or stands) , you'd need to make it very stable so you could pull , pry , and twist .

      I wore myself out crawling up under the car ( which was on stands ) in the last few months .
      If the car was on a real lift , then it would be easy to get to .
      I can't wait to build my shop with the lift .
      Last edited by JEFFTATE; 04-26-2011 at 06:05 AM.
      Jeff Tate
      U.S.A.
      "The best thing about participating in these events is that you get to hang out with a group of intelligent like minded people who live to achieve things in their lives. You won't find a lazy, mean, or dumb bone in their bodies." Bret Voelkel, RideTech

    9. #29
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Posts
      1,747
      Country Flag: United States
      Thanks for the tips - sorry for highjacking your thread! That wasn't my intent. I would like to know where I can find slip fit bearings for test fitting though. I will definitely be purchasing a set.
      GeoffP
      68 Camaro - LS1/T-56

    10. #30
      Join Date
      Apr 2005
      Location
      USA
      Posts
      4,462
      Country Flag: United States
      I had Drive Line Service of North Atlanta double check my work.

      The pinion nut / pinion bearing preload was too loose !
      ( I only had 5 in/lbs of preload on the pinion bearings.)
      That was allowing the pinion gear to move and cause noise .
      I can't believe I got it wrong , my inch/lb torque wrench must be screwed up , or I just checked it wrong .
      Other than the pinion preload , I had everything else perfect .

      This particular gearset just doesn't have a perfect pattern .
      Either way , the noise is down to an acceptable level , and the car is a lot smoother than it used to be ..

      So , I'm finally back on track for some events !
      Last edited by JEFFTATE; 05-12-2011 at 04:50 AM.
      Jeff Tate
      U.S.A.
      "The best thing about participating in these events is that you get to hang out with a group of intelligent like minded people who live to achieve things in their lives. You won't find a lazy, mean, or dumb bone in their bodies." Bret Voelkel, RideTech

    11. #31
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      glad you have it figured out Jeff....
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454


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