Broke In Cam Now Popping Sound

[toofun]

Here is where I am at. I loosened all the nuts on the rockers and reset them using the EOIC method. But I left them loose. Very little up and down play in them if any and DID NOT GIVE THEM AN ADDITIONAL 1/4-1/2 TURN. Figured better too loose than too tight. I ran a compression test on each cylinder (cold since engine wont start to warm it up) and here is what I got.

• #1 210 #3 210 #5 200 #7 200

• #2 210 #4 210 #6 210 #8 195

So I am assuming I dont have a problem with the valve hanging up or a bent valve since I would think I wouldnt get any reading with a bent or hanging valve Correct?



Also is there such a thing as having the valves too loose? Could this cause a backfire or a non starting problem? Once again thanks for all of the replys I really appreciate it.

Mark
TOOFUN

[yody]

as soon as it won't wiggle up and down then give it a half turn

and then give the rocker arm 1/2 turn, no less no more.

why aren't you listening??? why do you keep leaving the valves loose?? that is not the correct way, you are doing it WRONG. If you listened you would see that you NEED to give them 1/2 turn. Your philosophy of too loose is incorrect. THey need to have the proper preload. Go back AGAIN and adjust the valves EOIC and give them 1/2 turn. We can't help you if you keep not listening, and doing it the wrong way time after time.

[toofun]

I really appreciate you comments but here is why I have not done it that way. First of all , originally I did it EXACTLY that way. I tightened the nut until there was no UP AND DOWN play, then I gave it 1/2 turn. The engine started and then after a while when I tried to raise the rpms to adjust the timing it popped and backfired like crazy. I shut the motor off and tried to restart and it wouldnt start unless I let it cool down for about 30 minutes So everyone told me I had them too tight.

When I read the book they say to adjust the valves the same way that you did except they said to do it AFTER THOROUGHLY WARMING UP THE ENGINE. So you can see why I am a little confused. I am assuming that when the engine is warmed up or getting hotter the valves and engine will expand making the clearances tighter. So if you are suppose to take the slack out and then turn it 1/2 a turn while it is EXPANDED AND HOT then that would mean that the valves will be a little looser when the engine cools. BUT if you take the slack out and give it 1/2 a turn when the engine is COLD, when the engine warms up and expands it will be too tight wouldnt it? This is why I keep thinking that the valves need to be looser before I start it up. Dont mean to be difficult really appreciate the comments but need a definitive answer to help me make sense of it all.

Thanks
Mark

[68protouring454]

you have adjusted and re adjusted thing so much i would start from scratch, pull distributor again, then slowly go around adjust valves so they each are opening fully, and so they each have 1/2 turn on them, then find top dead center on compression and insert distributor, now align #1 on cap to rotor and put wires on, now assuming you have the 2 other ingriedients to a running motor, spark and fuel it should run, there is something else going on, did the hei get unplugged or a fuse blow?? getting a chevy sb to run is pretty easy, compression/spark and fuel, now maybe the cam timing was messed with or installed off, i do not know but its not rocket science,also the static compression you are seeing the motor must have damn near 11-1 compression.
i just read your first post, maybe you got wrong pushrods?? its just time to check everything
jake

[protour_chevelle]

The rocker nuts have to be adjusted when the valve is closed eh... then half turn. You can't just go over all the rockers without turning the engine.

-Matt

[Charley Lillard]

The popping when you rev it might just be because your single spring is too weak to close the valve fast enough. I would put the second springs back on and try it again. If it doesn't want to turn over when hot you might have the timing too far advanced. Try backing it off a bit the next time it happens. If you have valve covers with the top cut out get some of the clips that snap over the rocker arm oil hole so it doesn't get too messy. With the engine running loosen a rocker till you hear it clacking, then slowly tighten it till it gets quiet and tighten another 1/4 turn. Do all of them that way. If they are all clacking so loud you can't hear the one you are trying to adjust just slowly tighten the ones you think are making noise. It will get quieter. I would set initial timing at 10-12 right now while you are adjusting.

[yody]

Okay no offense everyone, but read his old posts, we have already gone over everythign just mentioned. He needs to do exactly like i said a few posts back. Don't worry about the motor being hot, yes that might be a little bit better but not much, you have hydraulic lifters, if you have aluminum heads the lash might expand .004. which aint squat on a hydraulic lifter. JUST ADJUST THEM WITH 1/2 TURN. Also that is not how you adjusted them the first time, you clearly stated that you were "until I could still twist the pushrod" not up and down but twisting it, which is not the correct way, you could give the polylock a full turn and still be able to twist the pushrod, you have go up and down. You also need to retime the motor like i said in detail. NOne of this could even be your problem but you need to get it down first before you start messing with other stuff or coming to conclusions. Get your valves adjusted right and then re-time the motor!! Don't reply until you have!

[zbugger]

One last question here. What kind of locks are you using on the studs? Are you using Poly Locks?

[toofun]

Yes I am using Poly locks.

[Railing68]

After reading all the posts the EOIC method works very well and fast even for solids. ALso timing the motor prior to starting is the only way to go. One thing I noticed is that he had 1.6 ratio arm listed, did he use these on break in? I do realize that he removed inner spring, but could this contribute to a break in related problem even with out inner spring? If indeed the cam has lost a lobe. SS

[toofun]

Yea I did use the 1.6 ratio rockers on break in. Also was very careful to check for coil bind and rocker arm interference when I installed them. I will be trying again this weekend on saturday with the help of a friend of mine so Ill keep y all posted on how it goes.

Thanks
Mark
TOOFUN

[yody]

just make sure to follow the instructions we posted, then if that doesnt' work, we can begin trouble shooting, did you check your pushrod lengths?(not that it would cause any of these probs.)

[toofun]

Didnt check the push rod lengths but can tell you this. I bought the cam and also bought the pushrods, springs and rockers all together. I called the tech at comp cams and told him what I was running what I was using and specifically mentioned that I was using 1.6 ratio pro magnum rockers with this application so that I could assure myself that everything in this combination matched each other perfect. Hopefully tommorrow I will be dancinig in the streets instead of crying on the curb.......

[yody]

that doesnt' mean anything, but if you are using stock heads etc. it shouldn't be too much of a problem, although just for fun i would check them anyway, comp woulnd't be able to tell unless they checked it themselves, again that wouldnt' cause your problems, just a cool thing to check. Also don't be prepared for the car to be running after doing what was mentioned. You just need to do this stuff as prelimanry. It might fix it, but if it doesn't you know the basics are covered

[toofun]

ITS ALIVE...YES ITS ALIVE...... Had a friend come over and help me out today. He went through everything and started from scratch. Seems I didnt have the valves too tight on this last setting just didnt have the distributer set right. I always tried to set it dead on the number one on the cap and he said that he always lined it up to the corner of the front of the head with a screw driver. Actually put it a little after the number one setting. Said I had it off about two teeth. Well what ever it was he fixed it. Started right up on the first turn of the key. Set the initial timing, then tuned the carb then set the total timing, again with the carb, set the idle and MAN this thing sounds mean now. Hits the throttle and it just erupts!! No stumble, no hesitation, it really comes alive!! Thanks again for all the help and comments. I am thrilled, cant wait to take it out tommorrow.

[68protouring454]

something as easy as not having distributor in right!!! kinda an easy fix for as long as this thread turned out to be, motors are pretty goddamn simple, the problem is usually right there

[yody]

yes, that is what i was pointing at. See do one step at a time and don't get so excited and jump to conclusions! and its usually something right under your nose. Starting from the basics and the process of elimination works!

[toofun]

Well everytime you do something you always learn something new. This is the first time I ever did a motor and had it NOT fire up. I guess sometimes you need a fresh set of eyes and thinking to see the little things that you may miss that are right under your nose. Thanks
again for all your comments.

Mark
TOOFUN