battery issue, only <32*F

[MonzaRacer]

One most people have issues with is depending on specific tools finding problems all the time. Yet the good tools and companies that made them are gone or worn out.
Most likely your issues was with either weak/worn brushes/brush springs. and possibly a weak diode allowing ac voltage to get to the battery.
Putting a volt meter on the battery and having the head lights on and flip the high beams on and off, new alternators SHOULD put out no more than 40 mV (thats millivolts ) I can live with 60mV and 60mV is the limit for the old alternator. if the alternator spikes over 100mV it can damage the battery, it will drop the life of a battery from 4 or 5 yrs to a year or less in some cases.
fords will have idle issues with 100mV to 150mV even , like when an ac clutch engages and releases, the load ups the alternator output then it spikes.
Some testers will miss these small spikes and cars still have issues.
And remember there are rebuilt, these get new bearings and brushes, and rest tested and cleaned up even the regulators get reused if testin g ok. reman get replacement parts either refurbished stators, rotors and pulleys and maybe a new regulator. then there are new-man all new but aftermarket, and this is where they MUST be from a good company as some have different regulators, like some fords. Some regulators ONLY work from computer control and some will simply turn on with key on through a resistor or idiot light and work fine.
Good thing is you seem to have it fixed.

[megaladon6]

Well the alt did not completely fix the issue, but close. Shes now good down to around 10, but by 5 she gets weak--she'll start but will drop enough voltage to reset the clock.
oh and its a bosch rebuilt direct from germany