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    Results 1 to 4 of 4
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      North Jersey
      Posts
      983

      Front Swaybar Endlink Question

      Kind of a general question for the suspension gurus. If your front springs are stiffer and shorter than OEM, should you run stock-length endlinks or something else?

      I'm asking because I just bolted a hollow 34mm front swaybar from an F-body into my G-body (F-bodies make good parts donors!), and the car already has Eibach 1" drop springs in it. Not sure if I should keep the stock-length endlinks, or go shorter or longer?

      Opinions wanted, post away.

      Steve Ragusa - North Jersey
      2006 Infiniti G35x
      Former Build - 1988 Monte Carlo SS - ZZ4-cammed TPI 355, F-body serpentine conversion, World-Class 5-speed, Eibachs/Bilsteins, Howe tall LBJs, 34mm hollow front swaybar, 3/4" straight rear bar, 17" Coys C55s, 12" front discs, and more. Sold on 2/28/11.


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Sep 2004
      Location
      savannah,ga
      Posts
      862
      Country Flag: United States
      if they need to be shortened then the sleeve that the endlink bolt goes through can be cut. If the stock parts fit I would just use them.

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2002
      Location
      state of confusion
      Posts
      1,499
      Country Flag: United States
      The simple answer is that you probably want them to be a bit shorter, so that the arms of the bar are approximately horizontal (parallel to the LCA chassis pivot axis, if you're being picky). That way, at static ride height the bushings should be close to being loaded only in compression due to the endlink bolt/nut torque with a minimum of bending being developed in the endlinks. In turn, that lets the bar work about equally freely in bump and rebound, and the bar stiffness effects should be about as close to linear over the range of suspension movement as can be achieved without getting involved in a whole lot more work.

      On edit, spring stiffness does not affect the geometry, only the amount of motion. So I'd ignore that, beyond realizing that any reduced suspension motion will help the bar stiffness remain more linear.

      Norm
      '08 GT coupe, 5M, suspension unstockish (the occasional track toy)
      '19 WRX, Turbo-H4/6M (the family sedan . . . seriously)
      Gone but not forgotten dep't:
      '01 Maxima 20AE 5M, '10 LGT 6M, '95 626, V6/5M; '79 Malibu, V8/4M-5M; '87 Maxima, V6/5M; '72 Pinto, I4/4M; '64 Dodge V8/3A

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Dec 2004
      Location
      North Jersey
      Posts
      983
      Thanks for the tips guys. Norm, I will check to see if the arms are parallel later on today. And Tom, thanks for the great idea of just cutting the sleeves. It'll save me some $$.
      Steve Ragusa - North Jersey
      2006 Infiniti G35x
      Former Build - 1988 Monte Carlo SS - ZZ4-cammed TPI 355, F-body serpentine conversion, World-Class 5-speed, Eibachs/Bilsteins, Howe tall LBJs, 34mm hollow front swaybar, 3/4" straight rear bar, 17" Coys C55s, 12" front discs, and more. Sold on 2/28/11.




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