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    Results 1 to 12 of 12
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Golden, CO
      Posts
      85

      Leaf Perch Pad - Above or Below Spring?

      In the shop now, installing new leafs. This axle has muli-leaf perches. Each perch can be filled perfectly with the spring and one urethane perch pad.

      Question:
      Does the pad go above the spring - between the axle perch and spring?
      OR
      Does the pad go below the spring - between the spring and the shock plate?



      This might be a no brainer but I'm getting different answers from good sources.
      Mr. Pozzi says below spring.
      Tech at GW says above spring.
      Last edited by First Bird; 11-15-2010 at 12:32 PM. Reason: Added info


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      The Declining Market
      Posts
      46
      I've tried all three ways and the best is NO pad. Axle perch to leaf to shock plate.
      Dan
      1969 Chevrolet Camaro
      /DSE/SDPC-LS7/T-56/FORGELINE/BAER/VAPORWORX/SPEARTECH
      /DAKOTA-DIGITAL/RECARO/MOMO
      /MSP-FAB/BLACKTECH/


    3. #3
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Golden, CO
      Posts
      85
      Thanks for the advice Dan. That's great you have tried all three ways! I'll take your advice. BTW these are GW L-2 leaf springs. I'll put the spring right up on the axle perch then. Is there any reason not to use a 1/2" lowering block as a solid spacer between the spring and the shock plate? I was thinking of how I could make a solid spacer, but then I thought: wouldn't it be easier to buy one already made (and cheap)? I'm not looking to lower the car. With 2" drop leafs and the Herb Adams Mod, it doesn't need to go lower.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Mar 2010
      Location
      AZ
      Posts
      801
      Country Flag: United States
      You'll probably run into a problem with the pin on end end of the block. Why do you need a spacer there? Just to move the shock mounting plate down for better shock travel?
      Robert R.
      1988 S10 blazer 5.0L SBC 700R4 body off build.
      1991 S10 Blazer 4.3L too low daily.
      1975 Cutlass Salon currenlty 350/th350
      Stupidity should be painful.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Golden, CO
      Posts
      85
      The spacer is to take up the space in the Multi-leaf spring perch. The perch is 2.10" deep. The springs are 1.625" thick. If i don't take up the space in the perch, the springs will be able to move up and down. They will not be clamped. As for the pin, I think that can stick through the hole in the shock plate. Please let me know if I misunderstand anything. Thanks

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Jul 2007
      Location
      Olathe, KS
      Posts
      1,158
      Country Flag: United States
      I guess it could come down to your desired ride height. If it's between the spring and the axle, it will lower your ride height by the thickness of the spacer. Any other place wouldn't have any effect on height.

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2004
      Posts
      2,624
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by Rhino View Post
      I guess it could come down to your desired ride height. If it's between the spring and the axle, it will lower your ride height by the thickness of the spacer. Any other place wouldn't have any effect on height.
      Except that without the pads he needs to make up a .475 gap. So the .5 lowering block should only drop it .025" from where it is now with the pads. Visually it's a wash.
      Red Forman: "The Mustang's front end is problematic; get yourself a Firebird."

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Holmes Hollow, Ontario Canada
      Posts
      991
      I thought there was one above and one below. Why wouldn't you want them in there?
      ____________________________________________
      Scott

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Golden, CO
      Posts
      85
      I've decided to do it like this: axle, GW 2" drop leaf, .500" aluminum spacer, shock plate. This should allow solid clamping. Rubber front eye bushings, urethane shackle bushings.

      Normally there is a rubber pad above and below. When I started this thread I had urethane pads to upgrade. I thought only one pad would allow clamping of the spring, but after doing the install, it looks like I was wrong. If I stayed with urethane I would have needed to use a pad above and below. But now, after alot of internet research and advice from the forum I've decided to go another way.

      I don't want flex between the axle and spring. It appears to me that best hookup (increasing anti-squat and reducing spring wind-up) happens when the axle transmits forces directly to the spring. I'm not worried about stance. 2" drop leafs and HA mod should lower rear 2.5". Removing a .455" thick urethane pad from between the axle and spring will raise stance that amount. So net drop will be 2" and I'm OK with that.

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Feb 2007
      Location
      The Declining Market
      Posts
      46
      The extra space in my setup is taken up by the two 4 degree shims. I replaced the stock GW through-bolt with one about a 1/2" longer to ensure positive engagement in the perch, and shock plate.

      There's about a 1/4" gap between the perch and shock plate.

      I torqued the U-bolts to 65 lbft and re-torqued after a few hard miles.
      Dan
      1969 Chevrolet Camaro
      /DSE/SDPC-LS7/T-56/FORGELINE/BAER/VAPORWORX/SPEARTECH
      /DAKOTA-DIGITAL/RECARO/MOMO
      /MSP-FAB/BLACKTECH/


    11. #11
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Golden, CO
      Posts
      85
      Dan, Thanks again for the solid advice. I appreciate it. I'll do that longer through bolt - Grade 8 or better. Isn't it funny how obvious things are after you do them. I hadn't factored in pinion angle shims. Now I understand how you didn't need any spacers. I'll measure pinion angle tomorrow
      Last edited by First Bird; 11-17-2010 at 09:53 AM. Reason: duplicate

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Nov 2007
      Location
      Golden, CO
      Posts
      85
      Dan, Thanks again for the solid advice. I appreciate it. I'll do that longer through bolt - Grade 8 or better. Isn't it funny how obvious things are after you do them. I hadn't factored in pinion angle shims. Now I understand how you didn't need any spacers. I'll measure pinion angle tomorrow.




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