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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States

      Tips for removing the color from welded stainless steel

      Anyone have any good tips for removing the oxidation color from stainless steel after you have welded on it?


      We had a project that had some A304 SS window lintels added to our contract. These 3/8" thick plates were 30.5" wide x 30' long and were stitch welded with intermittant fillet welds to the main structural steel above. The heat from welding had oxidized on bottom (opposite) side of these plates and the Architech on the job asked us to address this.



      A trip to the grocery store proved to be fairly beneficial. I found 100% lemon juice(citric acid) seemed to get the job done and is enviromentally friendly and not hazardous to your health when using it.

      samples as welded...



      samples cleaned, one with lemon juice and one with CLR


      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Mar 2008
      Location
      Ramona, Ca. San Diego area
      Posts
      1,307
      Country Flag: United States
      Hey that's good info... wonder if it would work on header blue? Probably not, but it would be cool if it did.
      67 Camaro convertible (Jinx)

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Rustburg, Virginia
      Posts
      3,436
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by 67 ls1 vert View Post
      Hey that's good info... wonder if it would work on header blue? Probably not, but it would be cool if it did.
      There is something that will get that off....(BTW, correct shielding coverage will prevent it in the first place)

      Check out this video.....removes the coloration and there is no need for passivation, machine is about a grand and the solution it uses is about $15/gallon

      http://link.brightcove.com/services/...tid=3562415001
      1970 RS/SS350 139K on the clock:
      89 TPI motor w/ 1pc rear seal coupled to a Viper T56 via Mcleod's modular bellhousing w/ hydraulic T/O bearing from the Viper, 12 bolt rear w/ 3.73 gearing, SC&C upper control arms, factory lowers with Delalums, C5 brakes at all four corners, Front Wheels 17x8's with Sumi 255/40/17 and Rear Wheels 17x9's with Sumi 275/40/17.
      Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=112454



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