'67 GTO LS3 Swap

[Pontiacken]

Colin, Tanks Inc. may very well be the way I go with this issue. I have been reading that spectra has added a baffle to their tank now. However, I do not know if they are doing anything for existing owners of the original tanks. By the way don't be to impressed with my fabrication skills yet. This was my first time at welding and taking on a project anywhere this in depth before. But that is why it is so fun!

[CFster]

So I finally got the ride straightened out for the most part. Part of the problem was these:



Those end links are no good. At least not for me. They appear to only allow movement in one direction. The bar was binding just going down the road straight. I tried loosening both clevis's and let them rotate to their natural position then tightened them back up. Problem was the position they fell into had my bar yanked over 1". You can see where the tire rubbed the bar. And even loose the bar would bind. Made for an extremely stiff ride up front. The front wheels were skating over the bumps and it would just about yank the steering wheel out of my hand. I replaced them with standard links from the parts store. Problem solved. Rides much better now.

Mark Savitske's suspension is something else. Combined with Bridgestone RE11s the car has a much higher limit than I do. I think I'd have to do something pretty stupid on the street for it to get away from me.

Also, as a side note, if you're going put C6 Z06 brakes on your car then use a 1" manual master cylinder and a 9" dual diaphragm booster. I tried both an 11" standard and 8" dual diaphragm booster and it wasn't enough. The application I looked up was for a '74 Corvette. Parts available from NAPA. They really are phenomenal brakes. Thanks to Tobin at KORE3.

[Pontiacken]

Colin I sent you a PM. Ken

[HighOctane]

Nice GTO man! Hell yeah!

[jgpclone]

man ur car is comming along just nice.

[LeighP]

The adjustable links I have on my front bar use heim joints on the bottom so they can swivel some.....looks like the set up on yours doesn't allow any movement at all?
Good luck on the project.

[Pontiacken]

Colin,

Sent you another PM.

Ken

[CFster]

Sorry Ken, I'll respond as soon as I can. Kind of busy at work up here in New England getting ready for Irene.

[CFster]

Put some proper tail pipes on:

[CFster]

Also some engine covers. I haven't really figured out what color scheme I'm going to use, but I'd like the covers, intake tube and possibly a radiator fill panel to be the same. I'd like to find somebody who can put some lettering on the covers - like P O N T I A C and then L S 3 underneath or something.

[CFster]

My paddle shift doesn't work. It's sending signal to the box that's wired into my Compushift but the transmission isn't responding...

[Pontiacken]

Colin-Tailpipes look great and your engine covers too. They will be awsome once finished. Did you make a pattern and have them made at a metal shop? Wish I could help you out but I don't know anything about paddle shifters. Did everything come out OK up there after Irene? Ken

[CFster]

The covers were made by Roto-Fab. I had to cut the right side to clear the Kwik bracket and compressor. Those are the only guys I've found that do custom aluminum covers.

I found out what the problem was with the paddle shift. Turns out that function has to be "turned on" in the Compushift - with an optional display screen that I don't have. I have the original first generation unit. At that time the display was optional and I could set shift firmness and timing with a screw driver. So, I had to send it off to Compushift to be flashed to the latest software and get the screen.

No ill effects from Irene. Some parts of the state and north east in general got it a lot worse than us. Just had to contend with no power for a few days. Thanks.

[Pontiacken]

How about your fuel line connector issue. Any final resolution on that?

[CFster]

Well, I cut a length of plastic tubing and slid it into the fitting over the line, so now the clip can't collapse. I gave it a good yank and it seems secure. It's really a piss poor design - you're relying on the spring tension of a plastic clip to keep the line on. If it's used more than a couple times, as in compressed with your fingers to remove it, then it loses it's spring and it's junk.

One of these days I'll flare the metal tube and put a real screw fitting on it...

[rockytopper]

I'd like to find somebody who can put some lettering on the covers - like P O N T I A C and then L S 3 underneath or something.

I could hook you up with some custom letters or logo cut from aluminum you could either have them welded on from the back side or make them thicker so that they could just be screwed on from the back. GTO, arrow logo, lS3, PONTIAC, etc... what ever your heart desires. If interested shoot me a PM.

I'm still curious on how the paddle works as far as keeping the trans in gear at above electronic rpm shift point. Good luck with it.

[CFster]

Thanks rockytopper, I might take you up on that.

So far I'm kind of lukewarm on the paddle shift. By default the 4L60E doesn't have engine braking. So, if I downshift with the paddle from say 3rd to 2nd at a decent clip there's no real indication that it shifted. The trans goes into kind of a freewheel - I'm not sure what the technical explanation is for it. But if I hit the gas it's like there's no gear there - have to slow down more.

Sunnex makes a valve that you can put in to enable engine braking in 3-2-1, so I might give that a shot, though I would like to have it in 4th as well, but that's impossible I'm told.

[cspecken]

Did you have any problems installing the new front suspension? Were you able to use any sort of spring compressor or were they too stiff? I am getting ready to install the same setup on my car, which currently has a bare frame. I am going to set the body back down and set the old motor in place to give the front end some weight.

[CFster]

No not really. I just used a screw jack under the lower control arm (on a lift). The springs aren't ridiculously stiff. You could use a floor jack too. You'll need to put the shocks in before though. No way to fit them up through the hole.

[CFster]

Decided to go with a slightly taller tire (45 vs. 40). I think they fill up the wells a little better and made a big difference in ride.