LS1/TKO 600 Mechanical clutch

[daytonayellaz]

Couldnt get the answer I was looking for....I have a 04 GTO LS1 motor. Can I run a TKO 600 behind it in my 67 camaro. Can I also retain my mechanical clutch linkage. Im going to run the TKO 600 in the car for sure.....I would like to run the LS1 motor if its not to much a hassle pairing the 2 up???

Thanks!!

[scherp69]

Yeah you can hook the LS1 to the TKO600. You will just need to get a LS bellhousing or scattershield. I'm using a Lakewood scattershield have it hooked up to a L92. Here's the one I'm using: http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...rd=lakewood+ls Yes you can also keep the mechanical clutch linkage.

[trex1270]

So, were does the z bar install at, on the bracket with the three holes?

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

I have questions about this same set up.

Can I use my current SBC Scatter Shield? (Its ust one bolt shy, right? I know its big enough to fit the LS clutch)

Can I use just a regular LS1 Clutch Kit and Pilot Bearing?

Can I keep my Mechanical Linkage with the LS1 Clutch set up? (I know I will need a bracket for the Z-Bar.)

[trex1270]

here is what I found so far...mcleod clutch 460535, ls7 pilot bearing 12557583, 621 bell housing will work and scoggins dickey sells a bracket that bolt to the bell housing for the z bar...BUT i have been told there are header issues...so I may say hell with it and o hydro.

[NvrDun71]

The Headers are the hard part.... I haven't seen or heard of a true bolt in header/motor mount plate option for a TKO w/ mechanical clutch. There always seems to be some header primary tube modification necessary to make them work. Have heard rumors of the dynatech ls swap headers with ATS plates working, but can't confirm. Scoggin Dickey actually makes a set of of motor mount swap plates that is supposed to work with there pivot ball mount, but they couldn't recommend a header that clears everything..... I have done alot of research on this and have yet to come up w/ a clear answer.

[CliffsBlueCamaro]

Thanks for the info guys. I was thinking about the Dynatech headers as well, since I read that they are supposedly made to clear mechanical clutch linkage.

So common sense tells me that I need to use plates that place the engine as close to the stock SBC position as possible to line up with the z-bar. (S&P Plates? DSE? Others?)

So, does anyone know about any issues with using an LS1/LS7 Clutch as a manual set up?

[69importkilla]

I think the edelbrock mounts place the engine closest to the original position. Dont know anyone thats runnin a LS7 with mechanical linkage.

Why not avoid all this and go hydraulic? It maybe a little more expensive, but no fitment issues...

Here's a sound out...I know the options out there are endless, but LS block's have been around for quite some time now, but dimensionally they haven't changed. I am really surprised none of these vendors have developed a "fitment" guide. If your gonna make headers how hard would it be to test more than one application or fitment?

[zooq]

If you decide to go hydraulic, Please buy the clutch first and take all the measurements before ordering the hydraulic pilot bearing kit. You might need a custom piston length. I went thru that with my Ls1 and TKO 600 . The piston that came with the kit was too short and i had to pay $100 for a new piston.

[3pedals]

I run a 6.0L w/ a TKO 600 and mechanical clutch linkage in a 67 camaro.
I used:
- 1" setback mounts
-old BBC scattersheild
- a +.200" aluminum flywheel from mcleod - but i think a factory LS1 wheel would have worked
- adjustable pivot ball to get linkage in the right spot
- custom bracket welded to the side of the scatter sheild that come out toward the driver about 3/8" from the block, and bends toward the front of the motor 1" and I mounted the pivot ball there.
- I had to cut and weld the bell crank to shorten it, as well as slightly change the lever angles - not tough.
TOUGH PART: I had to cut tube #5 on my shiny new coated Eddelbrock headers to clear the linkage. actually it was really easy, just cut at the mid point of 2 bends that were above and below the interference point, and then rotate the pipe 45* and weld it back together.
I had the new Eddy headers installed in the car before I realised they wouldnt clear the linkage, or I may have looked for another alternative. BUT now thats the fab work is done, I am happy with them.

[kball]

I'm going to keep the mechanical linkage on my tko600 when the L92 goes in. Currently has a GenV BBC block which has no clutch ball bolt boss or mech. fuel pump capability-or i'd still be using one of those too.

I've called edelbrock and Hooker and they both say their swap headers won't work with a z-bar. I like hyd t/o setups, but it always comes down to the fact that it WILL leak one day. It's never a matter of if, only when. Throw out the chea plinkage rods and make/buy some adj. rod end links and set it up once- and you're done. Myself, when it comes time to put the LS in, i'm going to buy a set of painted headers and cut em up and tig them back to make it work. It's not a big deal. It's actually a non-issue when you consider the things hot rodders can overcome there's no point thinking twice about this.