Swap! LS1 or LS2 ? Help decide....

[xxxturbo6]

You can't use the LS6 intake with L92/LS3 heads. Just FYI

At this point, I think you're simply making the decision too confusing. Think potential at this point since you're on a budget. With that said, LS2,3, or L92 would be on my radar only. You'll have lots of fun with them bone stock. From there you can build them up easily. This engine is going to react very different than your turbo 6. You'll have a learning curve you'll need to spend time on with the new engine. Worry less about power at this point and more about building a good foundation that will last well into the future. LS2/3 and L92 will provide that for you IMO.

Oiling issues have been around for LSx engines since the beginning in one form or another. You'll find C5 owners talk about how the batwing pan sucks and blah blah blah. Crap happens but the only LSx engine with anything close to a real oiling problem were the 97/98 cars. Even then, it's not that big of a problem unless you really push those engines hard. Beyond the 97/98 engines it is simply not a factor to be concerned about to the point of limiting your engine selection. As mentioned, get an aftermarket pan if you're that worried about it. Piece of mind is worth a lot to some people. I'm just trying to keep you reasonable.

Thanks Trey,

I contacted a local buddy who has built some nice healthy LS cars over the years. He agreed to help me with this swap and has done several of them so I think things should go rather smoothly. I want to do the cam, Pan, Heads, Intake, and possibly the Accusump right away and be done with it for now then in the future I can add to it if need be.

I bet the learning curve on the LS engine will be easier than it was on the V6!! Cause of that, I have had my share of running around tunning by lap-top... LOL


SW.

[T/Aaron]

I myself would keep the Turbo6 unless it's in pieces. You can improve those cars to run 11's in the quarter. Want to go faster and you're starting to break parts. Maybe that's where you're at. Don't sweat the LS1 vs LS2. There are two main differences, bore size and reluctor wheel. You can make an LS1 run what you want. I would go for the best deal. I would not spend a large amount of extra cash for an LS2 or LS3. The money difference could buy a killer set of heads or maybe a good payment on a supercharger. I'm not sure what the cost difference is, but with the LS2/LS3 you might run into the cylinder deactivation setup, which you'd probably want to bypass anyway. This would mean a new set of lifters maybe? There are a number of books on building LS1's. You might want to get a couple copies as you're looking at 500+ hp, you'll want to see what the stock blocks can take. That might make the decision for you.

[xxxturbo6]

I myself would keep the Turbo6 unless it's in pieces. You can improve those cars to run 11's in the quarter. Want to go faster and you're starting to break parts. Maybe that's where you're at. Don't sweat the LS1 vs LS2. There are two main differences, bore size and reluctor wheel. You can make an LS1 run what you want. I would go for the best deal. I would not spend a large amount of extra cash for an LS2 or LS3. The money difference could buy a killer set of heads or maybe a good payment on a supercharger. I'm not sure what the cost difference is, but with the LS2/LS3 you might run into the cylinder deactivation setup, which you'd probably want to bypass anyway. This would mean a new set of lifters maybe? There are a number of books on building LS1's. You might want to get a couple copies as you're looking at 500+ hp, you'll want to see what the stock blocks can take. That might make the decision for you.

There are LOT'S of reasons for switching to honest with you. I'm just getting bored with the V6 stuff. My last GN was built to the hilt and was just too much for autocross so I sold that and bought this one for the sole purpose of building it for the autocross / road courses. This car has a small turbo on it and it spools nice and quick on the street but lacks on the autocross coming out of turns, Yeah I could stick more money ($1,400) into a new Billet dual ball bearing turbo, and go with a liquid Intercooler but in the end it's still a V6 and weighs 100lbs more than the LS2!

Here's the deal, My close friend up north has a Buick just like mine and last year spun a rod bearing so his engine needs to be rebuilt, needs a turbo, and his trans is splipping so I told him if he found me a nice LS2 drop out from a very low mileage 05-06 GTO with a 4L65E trans, LS6 intake, wire harness, ecu, MAF, sensors, that I would trade him everything I have for all the LS2 stuff so basically it won't cost me anything! My buddy Tom has a good friend of the family who owns a salvage yard and the guy told my friend when he gets the car in he can come over and hear it run and then he will pull everything for him..

Can someone please post up a list of the items that he should pull for me? I have no clue what I will end up needing in the long run but i'm sure if it's pulled right away that it will save me a bunch in the in the end.


SW.

[cornfed]

Can someone please post up a list of the items that he should pull for me? I have no clue what I will end up needing in the long run but i'm sure if it's pulled right away that it will save me a bunch in the in the end.
SW.

Get everything that attaches to the engine and transmission- from radiator to drive shaft. Get the shifter assembly with cable, neutral safety switch/connector/pigtail, trans x-member, O2 sensors for both sides, do not cut the power steering hoses, pedals, wiring harness, fuse box.

For my g-body swap, bought everything from the radiator to drive shaft but didn't get the shifter and cable. I've spent ~$2-300 on trying to mix, match, & modify OEM parts for the trans. I finally made a modified the F-body shifter to mount in factory G-body mounting, used the 4L60 shift cable, and 1984 shifter handle. It sounds complicated, but the result is OEM functionality and finish.

[xxxturbo6]

Get everything that attaches to the engine and transmission- from radiator to drive shaft. Get the shifter assembly with cable, neutral safety switch/connector/pigtail, trans x-member, O2 sensors for both sides, do not cut the power steering hoses, pedals, wiring harness, fuse box.

For my g-body swap, bought everything from the radiator to drive shaft but didn't get the shifter and cable. I've spent ~$2-300 on trying to mix, match, & modify OEM parts for the trans. I finally made a modified the F-body shifter to mount in factory G-body mounting, used the 4L60 shift cable, and 1984 shifter handle. It sounds complicated, but the result is OEM functionality and finish.

Thanks for the list!! Would I still need the pedals if it's an Auto?

What is needed to hook up to my A/C box and stuff so the A/C works?


Scot W.

[cornfed]

Thanks for the list!! Would I still need the pedals if it's an Auto?
What is needed to hook up to my A/C box and stuff so the A/C works?
Scot W.

Only if you wind up with a drive-by-wire setup. I am using cable, specifically Lokar's LS1 cable.

I haven't plumbed my A/C system yet. I have a Monte SS. I bought the turbo Regal condenser because the fittings are on the right. When I get around to it, I was going to check out Aeroquip's DIY A/C hardware.

For my MCSS, I bought BGN gas tank, fuel pump, and sender instead of using an external pump.