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    1. #1
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Rockaway. NJ
      Posts
      211
      Country Flag: United States

      67 GTO Rear Suspension Q's

      Hello, new here....

      I am looking to take my GTO suspension to the next level..... not go crazy, just notch it up a bit.

      What I have...

      Hotchkis Springs Front and Rear
      Poly bushing in front control arms
      1.25" Front bar out of a TransAm
      Bilstein Shocks Front and Rear
      Aftermarket Upper and Lower Rear control arms ( too many years ago.... forgot brand)
      7/8 GM rear sway bar

      First thing I am considering is the ADJUSTABLE TRAILING ARM MOUNT BRACES..... such as these from PMT
      http://www.pmtfabrication.com/Produc...nt-braces.aspx


      As much as I love Hotchkis stuff.... these are 1/2 the price of Hotchkis.... is there a difference?








      Next thing is a rear sway bar upgrade....

      Couple of choices from what I see....

      1. 1" Solid bar that connects like OEM to the LCA's

      2. Hotchkis Extreme Bar - Does mount to rear axle assembly, but still only mounts to forward hole of LCA's




      3. A bar that mounts to the rear axle but also mounts to the frame such as the Spohn/SC&C Touring bar


      I am only running 15" wheels with 60 series tires....

      At what point is overkill as far as the rear bar is concerned?

      Will the extreme bars hurt ride quality?

      Has anyone used the Hotchkis Extreme bar?

      Would love some opinions....

      Thanks in advance

      Troy


      Oh.... gotta just show her off a little
      Troy
      67GTO


    2. #2
      Join Date
      Dec 2007
      Location
      Salem, OR
      Posts
      226
      Hi Troy,
      Welcome to the site. Nice GTO.
      I only have springs and Varishocks in the back so far and I have been reading up on suspension pieces. From what I've been able to gather the rear sway bars that mount to the frame are a good way to go. I haven't read about the Hotchkis ones that only use the forward hole, but I've heard the stock ones bind the suspension the way they mount to the lower arms.
      I don't think for the braces that there would be much difference between the brands. As far as the arms, everyone seems to really like the Currie ones with the Johnny Joints. I believe DSE has some new arms with a swivel type end too. My current setup to prevent rear suspesnion bind is 44 year old stock bushings.
      I don't have a rear bar right now and mine seems to do okay without it.
      Mike R
      '66 Olds Cutlass Convertible
      '15 Challenger SRT 392 (DD)
      '72 Pontiac LeMans (wife's toy)

    3. #3
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      Chicago
      Posts
      609
      Country Flag: United States
      I have a complete Hotchkis setup front and rear on my 67 Chevelle and I love it. Granted I don't road race it but it handles like it is on rails.

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      302
      Country Flag: United States
      I have the hellwig adj rear bar. I had it on its tightest setting for drag racing. Then I got tired of the way the car rode with it like that so I put it on its loosest setting, It took me about 30 mins to change it, but would have taken a bit less if my exhaust wasn't in the way Now the rear suspension doesn't feel so stiff and it will oversteer a little instead of understeering like when it was on the tightest setting.

      Its not a bolt on deal though you would probably have to take the rear springs out to drill the holes for the mounts for the sway bar links.
      http://www.youtube.com/user/cutlassrkt?feature=mhee
      69 cutlass - 5.3l L33, Jakes stage 3 4L80e, 275/40/17 proxes tq

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Central Illinois
      Posts
      152
      Why in the world would trailing arm braces need to be adjustable? You just bolt them in.
      '68 442 convertible
      5 SPEED - EFI

      '66 442 Hardtop
      in process

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      302
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CHILI442 View Post
      Why in the world would trailing arm braces need to be adjustable? You just bolt them in.
      yeah I don't get it either
      http://www.youtube.com/user/cutlassrkt?feature=mhee
      69 cutlass - 5.3l L33, Jakes stage 3 4L80e, 275/40/17 proxes tq

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Rockaway. NJ
      Posts
      211
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by kochevy67 View Post
      I have a complete Hotchkis setup front and rear on my 67 Chevelle and I love it. Granted I don't road race it but it handles like it is on rails.

      Which rear bar? Normal Sport Bar or the Extreme?
      Troy
      67GTO

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Auburn, WA
      Posts
      1,360
      Larger anti roll bars will hurt the ride quality compared to smaller ones in a one-wheel bump (which most are). If I were you, I'd purchase items all from one company to make sure you have a balanced combination of parts. Many people mix and match and end up with a car that under or oversteers too much, or rides harsher than it should.
      Matt Jones
      Mechanical Engineer
      Art Morrison Enterprises

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Rockaway. NJ
      Posts
      211
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by silver69camaro View Post
      Larger anti roll bars will hurt the ride quality compared to smaller ones in a one-wheel bump (which most are). If I were you, I'd purchase items all from one company to make sure you have a balanced combination of parts. Many people mix and match and end up with a car that under or oversteers too much, or rides harsher than it should.
      Thats one of the reasons I was leaning toward the Hotchkis bar..... but I was told on another forum.... because it still hooks to the LCA's it doesnt do much.... Hard to believe.... so it leaves me questions....
      Troy
      67GTO

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Nov 2005
      Location
      Auburn, WA
      Posts
      1,360
      Quote Originally Posted by 67gtonut View Post
      Thats one of the reasons I was leaning toward the Hotchkis bar..... but I was told on another forum.... because it still hooks to the LCA's it doesnt do much.... Hard to believe.... so it leaves me questions....
      I don't see why it wouldn't work. If the bar is sized properly (which it looks like it is) to work with the motion ratio, I don't see any problem with that. I'd say the MR is pretty low, but it looks like they took that into account when they selected whatever bar size that is. It looks pretty darn large (I'm guessing 1-1/8" x 0.156").
      Matt Jones
      Mechanical Engineer
      Art Morrison Enterprises

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by CHILI442 View Post
      Why in the world would trailing arm braces need to be adjustable? You just bolt them in.
      Maybe just so that a single part fits multiple applications? Dunno.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    12. #12
      Join Date
      Oct 2010
      Location
      Rockaway. NJ
      Posts
      211
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by CHILI442 View Post
      Why in the world would trailing arm braces need to be adjustable? You just bolt them in.
      I would think there is some variation between car to car for the distance between the upper and lower control arm mounts...
      Troy
      67GTO

    13. #13
      Join Date
      Feb 2008
      Location
      Texas
      Posts
      302
      Country Flag: United States
      Quote Originally Posted by silver69camaro View Post
      Larger anti roll bars will hurt the ride quality compared to smaller ones in a one-wheel bump (which most are). If I were you, I'd purchase items all from one company to make sure you have a balanced combination of parts. Many people mix and match and end up with a car that under or oversteers too much, or rides harsher than it should.
      Though with the adjustable rear sway bars you can tune out ride harshness. And it can help fix understeer and oversteer.
      http://www.youtube.com/user/cutlassrkt?feature=mhee
      69 cutlass - 5.3l L33, Jakes stage 3 4L80e, 275/40/17 proxes tq

    14. #14
      Join Date
      Feb 2006
      Posts
      478
      Quote Originally Posted by 67gtonut View Post
      I would think there is some variation between car to car for the distance between the upper and lower control arm mounts...
      Exactly.
      Alex Godsey
      Somerset, KY
      Pro Touring 67 GTO
      461 Pontiac Power

    15. #15
      Join Date
      Sep 2005
      Location
      Central Illinois
      Posts
      152
      Whatever. Never had a problem with the Hotchkis ones I bought for me '68 442. Maybe I just got lucky. Everyone and there mom has been building these braces for years, and I've never heard of anyone having a problem making them fit. Nevertheless, this guy built a better mouse trap
      '68 442 convertible
      5 SPEED - EFI

      '66 442 Hardtop
      in process

    16. #16
      Join Date
      Jul 2008
      Location
      Bethlehem PA
      Posts
      183
      Country Flag: United States
      Frame mounted swaybars are the most efficient, having a direct connection from the axle to the body.

      If you really want to move your car to the next level, look at the front geometry issues, and look into the SC&C stage 2 plus kit. SPC adjustable upper A-arms, and Howe tall ball joints.
      Last edited by T-CHRGD; 10-15-2010 at 04:08 PM. Reason: Spelling
      John at SC&C
      Savitske Classic and Custom
      NEW # 610-381-6100

      '87 Buick Regal Turbo T - Since New
      Lots of SC&C, Fays2 Watts Link
      Boze Pro Touring wheels,
      Baer 13" Pro+ & SS4+
      Shaved door handles
      Custom S/S Exhaust

    17. #17
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by CHILI442 View Post
      Whatever. Never had a problem with the Hotchkis ones I bought for me '68 442. Maybe I just got lucky. Everyone and there mom has been building these braces for years, and I've never heard of anyone having a problem making them fit. Nevertheless, this guy built a better mouse trap
      What I meant was that they could be used on different car models - not just variation on the same model line. Not sure if it applies. I also agree that it's hard for me to imagine needing even close to that much adjustment on the same type vehicle. Typically, they just fit.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

    18. #18
      Join Date
      May 2008
      Location
      portland, OR
      Posts
      7
      If you want the biggest improvements the parts your looking at won't get you there.


      1. the front geometry is where you will see your biggest improvement.
      (unless your shocks and springs are totally sacked, looks like thats not the case for you.)

      There are a number of ways to accomplish this. After doing much research I chose the kit put together by savitske classic.

      unlike a sway bar or stiff springs there really is no downside to installing these parts. your car will handle better and ride better.

      The reason is you can eliminate most of the bump steer, gain positive caster and a flatter plant of the tire in corners.

      There is a computer model where you can mess with these setting and see for yourself.


      2. if you are going to get a rear sway bar hellwig seems to be the most reasonably priced and works the best, it's hollow and made of chromoly. This type of adjustable sway bar will work worlds better than the old stuff that connects to the control arms and at the same price or less.

    19. #19
      Join Date
      Jun 2006
      Location
      Katy,TX
      Posts
      1,678
      "What I meant was that they could be used on different car models - not just variation on the same model line. Not sure if it applies. I also agree that it's hard for me to imagine needing even close to that much adjustment on the same type vehicle."

      I think the main question was why not use these at half the price of the Hotchkis.

    20. #20
      Join Date
      Aug 2008
      Location
      Pgh, PA
      Posts
      2,177
      Quote Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
      I think the main question was why not use these at half the price of the Hotchkis.
      I'm not disagreeing. I was just responding back to why they would be adjustable to begin with. These braces in particular aren't rocket science. All they do is connect a lower control arm mounting point to the crossmember/upper control arm mounting point. It's not like they change the geometry or anything. I'd guess you could make an argument that because they're adjustable, the design would allow them to flex just a little more, but even that sounds a little crazy to me.
      '66 GTO Vert Project "Red Ink", 462ci of stroked pontiac power, TKO600, SC&C Stg II+, Tubular lowers, Currectrac Rear suspension, Moser 12bolt w/Truetrack, Wilwood Master and discs all around, too much fun for words...

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