Enter your username:
Do you want to login or register?
  • Forgot your password?

    Login / Register




    Results 1 to 11 of 11
    1. #1
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      fort myers florida
      Posts
      200

      proportioning valve trouble

      I gutted the PV, removed the plunger and spring. This is a newer disc/disc PV on a 70 chevelle that i am upgrading to c6 brakes.
      After gravity bleeding all caliper's i went to do the pump and bleed method just to make sure all air was removed from the system, after the second pump of the pedal brake fluid is leaking from Pv.
      Looking at the PV there is a spot on the side that had what looked like a small rubber seal and a star washer holding it in place, that blew out and i lost all the fluid for the rear brakes.
      I have installed an adjustable PV after the master cyl. and before the frame mounted PV and was going to use the PV on the frame as a junction block.
      Has anyone had this happen ? What did you do to repair this.



    2. #2
      Join Date
      Nov 2006
      Location
      Mountain Springs, Texas
      Posts
      4,865
      Country Flag: United States
      Maybe you could replace it with a Wilwood residual pressure valve. I think they have one that is 2 psi.
      1969 Camaro - LSA 6L90E AME sub/IRS
      1957 Buick Estate Wagon
      1959 El Camino - Ironworks frame
      1956 Cameo - full C5 suspension/drivetrain
      1959 Apache Fleetside

    3. #3
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      fort myers florida
      Posts
      200
      Here is a picture of what I removed from PV

    4. #4
      Join Date
      Jan 2006
      Location
      Oregon
      Posts
      1,773
      Country Flag: United States
      Did you replace the o-ring seal when you reinstalled the rear port into the block?

      Tobin
      KORE3
      It's what I does.

    5. #5
      Join Date
      Aug 2006
      Location
      fort myers florida
      Posts
      200
      I replaced the o-ring. I think the best way to solve this is to run a new 3/16 line to the rear hose connection and get rid of the original PV.

    6. #6
      Join Date
      Sep 2006
      Location
      Southern Indiana
      Posts
      4,709
      Country Flag: United States
      agreed
      Lee Abel
      AFTERMARKET PERFORMANCE

      1977 Chevy Monza 2+2:Project "Cheap Trick"
      1978 C10 Long bed , On air and trailer puller
      2006 Buell Blast ,Just a bike to ride and for mileage
      1966 Caprice 4dr Sports Roof fact.327/now 350/SOON 454???? Project "II Old,,,ZERO BUDGET OR LESS CAPRICE!"

    7. #7
      Join Date
      Aug 2007
      Posts
      77
      had the same issue with a PV from MBM after 2 months less than 200 miles on it. replaced with a new one let's see how long this one lasts

    8. #8
      Join Date
      Sep 2010
      Location
      Benicia, Ca.
      Posts
      4,131
      Country Flag: United States
      Keep in mind....with that type of prop valve you can not pump and hold bleed them. As soon as you hit the pedal the pressure in the front will build faster than the rear and the pin in the valve will see that as a pressure loss and slide to close off about 90% of the flow to the rears.

      Younreally need to pressure bleed or vacuum bleed them...motive products makes a great affordable pressure bleeder!

      Matt
      MCB - Matt's Classic Bowties
      5360 Gateway Plaza Dr.
      Benicia, Ca. 94510
      866-628-8746
      TEXT ONLY: 925-989-9091 (Replied 8-4)
      www.mcbparts.com

      Email: [email protected]
      Like us on Facebook for exclusive offers, info and chat: www.facebook.com/mcbparts
      Hours: Monday to Friday 8am - 4pm Pacific
      We ALWAYS enjoy talking to our customers!
      We have a full time staff to answer ALL Questions, Tech Support or Order Status Tracking!

    9. #9
      Join Date
      Aug 2004
      Location
      Belle Plaine, MN
      Posts
      1,221
      Country Flag: United States
      I don't even run a junction-type PV anymore. My fronts are plumbed direct from the master with a T between L and R, and the rears have a Baer adjustable PV mounted under the master. Once I adjusted the rears to be in sync with the fronts, it's all set and I don't have to mess with it at all. Get the whole stock type PV out of there, and your headaches will go with it. Nothing to be gained by keeping it.
      Scott Parkhurst


      2011 Car Craft Real Street Eliminator Winner

    10. #10
      Join Date
      Oct 2006
      Location
      Pittsburgh Pa.
      Posts
      651
      Country Flag: United States
      I would remove that original set up and install a Summit adjustable proportion valve. You will also need the metering valve.. I bought mine from Master Power..

      http://www.mpbrakes.com/products/pro...product_id=615

      http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=g3905&dds=1

      I've been gravity bleeding my brakes for 35 years without any troubles..

    11. #11
      Join Date
      Mar 2005
      Posts
      345
      The metering valve isn't required on a disc/disc set up. Just plumb the proportioning valve between the M/C and rear line.

      Bob.




    Advertise on Pro-Touring.com