Bleeding woes

[LONE*STAR]

Here's what I got

• Stock used C5 zo6 rotors/calipers
• Kore3 brackets and all (5)KoreFlex lines new hardlines on axle
• Hydroboost- (no booster to master push rod ordered will be here friday)
• Willwood tandam master cylinder with 1.125 bore

Since I'm waiting on the booster to master pushrod I figired I would bench bleed the master and then install the master and vacuum bleed out the lines.

• It should be noted I used both front outlets for the front brakes.
• Front driver and passenger seemed to go quick and flowed a lot of fluid quickly.
• Passenger rear took a couple minutes to pull the fluid but ran out decent.
• Driver rear was a bitch... I hand pumped for 30 minutes keeping it at 20-30 psi vacuum most of the time and only got small amounts of fluid.
• It would slowly lose vacuum, but I cant rule out that this is not coming from the hose connection at the bleeder.

I checked all my new lines for tight connections, that sounds like the problem right, am I missing something here?

[LowBuckX]

put some paste thread sealer on the bleeder threads pretty thick to seal them so you dont pull air past the threads. Also try to put pressure on the bleeder ( down.. side to side ) and find a spot where it wont allow air passed threads... I just went through this my self. 100% neew lines and bleeding was a pain..... PS speed bleeder work well to. I have them on the front and its a breeze to bleed.

[LONE*STAR]

Should it be this hard to get fluid to the rear of the car? 20-30 psi seems like a lot of vacuum to have really no fluid being drawn. I've always heard this method was easier than traditional master cylinder pumping.

[68sixspeed]

actually 30 (inches not psi) is a little over 14psi. I have great luck with a motive brand pressure bleeder- pressurize the master cylinder with 5-10psi and push the fluid, and if you put brake fluid in the bottle it keeps filling the master cyl too. I would check the drivers rear for a leak, kink, restriction, debris, bad hose, etc.

[LONE*STAR]

Solved.... I pulled and re bleed the master.... Verified it hydro locked at about an 1/8 to 3/16 reinstalled and then switched between the two person method and the vacuum pump eventually it all came together right.

[Pete68]

I used the motive also that I bought on Amazon, I have a C5 master cylinder and bought the motive GM adapter cap, worked amazing! The pump and vacuum methods just do not work very well.

[LONE*STAR]

I got it eventually and my five year old got her first lesson in working on cars. She pumped the crap out of the those brakes and loved every minute of it.

[MonzaRacer]

ACTUALLY 30" or vacuum is 1 psi or just barely over atmospheric pressure.
Better idea is reverse bleeding with tool from here:http://www.brakebleeder.com/index.ph...=index&cPath=2
I actually have had the old Maxi Ject(discontinued) and Max Ject Pro Istill have and because they are using my testimonial and pic I got a new model 2002 MaxPro kit.
The $80 kit and a bottle of fluid can let me reverse bleed or flush a brake system in less than 30 minutes.
Because we had issue getting a master cylinder for a customers car with really great threads I didnt want to keep opening and closing fittings and such I used my Phoenix injector to reverse bleed the master cyl, installed it and after reverse bleeding the lines to the master , pulled the plastic plugs i had to keep fluid in master. 3 pumps each from wheel bleeders and all air was out. pulled connector off, out comes 3 or 4 bubbles(this car had gotten all new lines) from calipers and tada perfect pedal every time.
I use my tools religiously and I can re-hard line a car and bleed most of them in 15 minutes or less.
And if the system has air in it, since brake fluid is hygroscopic(means it absorbs air and moisture) and heat intensifies this, bleeding after say an autocross or road course can help for service and keeps fluid fresh.